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Discussion Starter #1
Hey all, following the sad demise of my engine recently (not all rattles are acct related, I can tell you!) I have managed to acquire a used engine to replace it with - where would we be without Ebay? Now, I know that a few weeks ago I read a post or article, I'm pretty sure it was on this site, by an owner who had done an engine swap and detailed all his pitfalls and put in some good advice and do's and don'ts about the experience.....but now I can't find it! Has anyone seen this post? Know where it is? Any advice of your own? Never attempted anything like this before so any tips welcome!
Cheers
Rich
 

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Rich,


I tried a few searches and came up blank. I'm fairly new here so do not know who it was that posted about an engine but hopefully someone will step in and remember.
 

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gb1ker said:
Now, I know that a few weeks ago I read a post or article, I'm pretty sure it was on this site, by an owner who had done an engine swap and detailed all his pitfalls and put in some good advice and do's and don'ts about the experience.....but now I can't find it! Has anyone seen this post? Know where it is? Any advice of your own? Never attempted anything like this before so any tips welcome!
Cheers
Rich
You don't mean this thread do you?

Page 2 has the few tips that I thought would help, assuming you have a manual (haynes or clymers or something).
 

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Search Goddess
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I also have a step by step pull write-up that I just went through for my stator pull. Looks like I might have to go through it again to free up a stuck transmission (Bike stuck in a "false neutral" and shift drum cam won't turn).
I'll post it later tonight after work.
 

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Running really well. Started on the first try this morning. The overhaul has also apparently cured it of it's cold-bloodedness. It didn't start or run well in the cold (below 45F) before, now it does. I'm puzzled but happy.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Hi guys n gals, thanks for replies, Imnohereo, that's not the post I meant but i have seen it before, just read it all through again! The one I read was one man's account of removing and replacing the engine, buggrit, I don't know where I saw it. Maybe linked from the yahoo page somewhere. Anyway, probably going to be a week or so before I can get started due to various commitments. Dianna, look forward to reading your article when you post it! :)
cheers all
Rich
ps can't wait to have it back on the road! Just gotta hope the fitting goes well. Currently my ride to work is on a '79 MZ 250 I bought cheap to keep mobile....it's just not the same! I feel silly with my studded leathers and German war helmet on!... Ok just kidding, but I am looking forward to having it back :)
 

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Imnohero said:
Running really well. Started on the first try this morning. The overhaul has also apparently cured it of it's cold-bloodedness. It didn't start or run well in the cold (below 45F) before, now it does. I'm puzzled but happy.
It's a good feeling when your hard work pays off. Good job! ;)
 

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Here is the list too that Doowriter and I are working on.. check out the additional notes at the end.. we hope to get it all put back in order along with torques for the bolts for reassembly.

I have converted the write-up about tilting the engine, into a numbered procedure. If you have time, I would appreciate if you could compare this version with whatever you use, and give me feedback about additions/deletions/corrctions that you experience while doing the tilt.

Thanks, Bill

...........................................................

To change the stator (and some other work) YOU DO NOT HAVE TO TAKE THE ENGINE OUT
merely tilt it to the right to let the shift spindle clear the frame.


These instructions are based on the Clymer manual engine removal. If you have a Clymer manual, use its pictures as a guide.

The Clymer's manual is pretty good at describing what and how to Remove things. Follow the instructions as they are laid out, but there are some things that you DON'T HAVE TO DO BECAUSE YOU ARE NOT ACTUALLY GOING TO REMOVE THE ENGINE....

Total time: about 12 hours

Kawasaki parts needed:
* 11060-1086 Bevel Gear case gasket
* 11060-1089 Generator Cover gasket
* 92055-1319 Outer cover O-ring

Should also get:
* new crush gaskets for the exhaust
* 3 small O-rings for the outer cover bolts
* copper anti-seize for exhaust bolt threads

Tools & equipment:
* metric tools
* small auto jack
* 12" x 6" x 1/2" piece of wood
* a pad of some sort (carpet) for the engine to sit on
* pry bar (car wheel lug wrench)
* 3 or 4 standard size bricks for additional support
* 1/2" masking tape and a Sharpie for marking parts
* string or wire to secure things
* plastic or paper cups to keep bolts/nuts/washers (mark the cups)
* Clymer's manual:
* read Chapter 4 on removing the engine.
* when it says "remove the xxyy as explained in chapter Z",
familiarize yourself with the procedure,
WILL have to "disconnect" & remove a bunch of parts.

As much as practical, reattach nuts & bolts, to make reassembly easier. When nuts & bolts can't be reattached, put then in marked cups.

Clean the engine exterior, to remove dirt and grease -- it makes handling parts nicer. Some household spray-pump cleaners work well.










1. Place the bike on its centerstand on level ground.

2. Drain the oil, using the bottom plug.

3. Remove the shifter lever.

4. Drain the coolant at the radiator drain plug (lower right front).

5. Disconnect the coolant hose at the engine (NOT at the radiator).

6. Remove the seat (bolts inside the tool case compartment).

7. Remove both side covers.

8. Disconnect the battery + cable (be sure it can't touch the battery).

9. Remove exhausts (replace bolts & cap nuts so you don't lose them).

10. Remove the tank.
A. Turn the fuel shut-off valve to OFF or PRIM
B. Disconnect fuel lines from shut-off valve
NOTE: DON'T drain the gas, just store the tank right side up
NOTE: To get the fuel lines off, spray them with WD40 and twist
C. On '86-'9 _ models, disconnect shut-off valve vacuum line
D. Remove bolts at lower front of tank
E. Raise the rear of the tank
F. Disconnect fuel gauge connector
G. On California models, disconnect emission system vent lines
H. Lift and pull the tank off, to the rear

11. Unbolt the coolant reservoir (leave the hoses attached).
DON'T drain the reservoir unless planning to change the coolant.
Suspended the reservoir from the frame with some string.

12. Disconnect the spark plug wires and tie them off out of the way.

13. Pull the hose off of the rear head, suction box (on the left).

14. DON'T remove the Carbs, just disconnect boots from the surge tank.

15. DON'T remove the throttle cables, just loosen handlebar adjusters.

16. Remove the external oil line bolt (near the oil filler cap).

17. Remove the oil line bolt (top end of the line) on the cylinder head.

18. DON'T remove the:
- sidestand switch wires
- oil pressure switch
- ignition coils
- ignition pickup
- main engine ground

19. Remove the Front Bevel Gear case, being careful. A gear (damper cam)
inside can just plop out.


20. Set the jack towards the front of the engine case, with some bricks in back
prop up the rear.
Set the board perpendicular to the engine to give max support.
NOTE: Position the jack up/down control on the LEFT side of the bike
to easier check and adjust the shift spindle to frame clearance.

21. Remove the front brake and foot peg bracket

22. Remove Right side subframe.

23. When removing the right-side rear engine mount bolts (different lengths),
mark them: F, UR, LR (Front, Upper Rear, Lower Rear).

24. Lower the back end till the engine mounting holes have cleared their
brackets. Alternately lower & raise the jack to loosen things, while
prying on the back end with a padded/coated pry bar.
CAUTION: DON'T LOWER SO MUCH THAT THE SHIFT SPINDLE HITS THE FRAME!

25. With the rear mounting holes cleared, lower the engine to maintain
at least 1/4" of shift spindle to frame clearance.
Support the rear of the engine on bricks, lower than the front.

26. Turn the handlebars to the left. This turns the engine to the right.

27. Put the pry bar between the engine and frame near the shift spindle.
Hold onto the frame and gently & firmly pry the engine to the right.
The engine should move out of the frame easily. The shift spindle
needs at least 1 3/4" from the frame to remove the stator cover.

28. Reverse the procedures to reinstall the engine.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------=



A few notes on installing the stator
------------------------------------
1. After unscrewing the stator from the outer cover, clip the output
(yellow) leads as close to the grommet as possible on the inside of
the cover. You'll need to re-use this, so pry it out gently.

2. With the new stator mounted in the cover and the grommets in place,
seal around them and in the holes, with red RTV Silicone. Let this
dry a full day before adding oil (oil leaks suck)!!

3. Be sure the 2 circlips and outer shift spindle washer are in place.
They limit excess spindle in/out movement (about 1/16" w/ cover on).

4. Mount the cover (see below about silicone sealing the cases), route
the wires, and THEN re-install the engine in the frame.

TIP: Use KY jelly to rejuvenate the rubber mounts. It's water based
And will not harm the rubber.

5. Moly grease the Front Driveshaft splines on both the shaft itself and
the Bevel Gear case. As per the Clymer's, Moly grease the damper cam
and its shaft spindle inside the Gear case. When you're ready to re-install
the Gear case (AFTER you've re-installed the Stator outer cover (so you can route the output wires under the Gear case), it may help to turn the U-joint inside the shaft up and towards you, insert the Gearcase splines & rotate the rear wheel slowly while pushing on the Gear case, to help mesh the splines.

6. Even when using new gaskets, oil leaks suck! Take added precaution to paint a thin even coat of Red RTV silicone on both mating surfaces of the Bevel Gear case and the Stator Outer Cover before re-install.

7. After removing the old gasket material, paint the engine side first, then install the new gasket over the silicone. Paint inside the Cover and Gear case, and re-install. Let this dry for one full day before you add oil and test your repair!!
These were suggested by JOB.

10. Remove the tank.
A. Turn the fuel shut-off valve to OFF or PRIM
B. Disconnect fuel lines from shut-off valve
NOTE: DON'T drain the gas, just store the tank right side up
*** Drain the gas or it will leak all over the place!!

11. Unbolt the coolant reservoir (leave the hoses attached).
DON'T drain the reservoir unless planning to change the coolant.
Suspended the reservoir from the frame with some string.

*** Remove the rear head coolant hose and metal tube going into the
head.

17. Remove the oil line bolt (top end of the line) on the cylinder
head.

***Not Necessarily
(this one was an idea I had, without looking at the bike. The
original instruction said to bend the tab on the oil line in step
16, at a 90 degree angle.

19. Remove the Front Bevel Gear case, being careful. A gear (damper
cam)
inside can just plop out.

***Remove the clutch rod

21. When removing the right-side rear engine mount bolts (different
lengths), mark them: F, UR, LR (Front, Upper Rear, Lower Rear).

***Remove the front engine bracket
***Remove the right sub-frame (with a 8mm Allen wrench)
***Remove the UR right engine bracket held in place by 2 bolts
............................................................

Here are some topics (that I have reorganized the wording) from
postings by you and Red Baron, that may help you to reconstruct the
process.

Added steps from Red Baron:
Remove the back engine mount bracket (others said they didn't have
to).

Loosen or remove the left/rear/top radiator pipe.

This was the first part of the job where I had trouble.

There is very, very little clearance,
I had to move things like a 1/4 inch at a time.
................................................................

Added steps from Dianna Hughey:
Removed the front engine mount
Removed the rear engine mount bracket from the engine
Removed the coolant hose attached to the right side of the front
cylinder
Loosened the two side bolts on the radiator
Pushed it forward a bit and all that gave us the final clearance.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Hi all, well, work has commenced, I think I have disconnected or removed everything that I need to so if the weather is fine on Sunday, hopefully I'll remove the engine (forecast is not good though). One thing is puzzling me though - the bevel case that the books and everyone says to remove - I've undone the bolts so it's loose but how does it come off? Surely the prop shaft goes into it? Or am I missing something? I'm sure I must be! Can anyone shed some light on the subject for me..hopefully before Sunday!? :)
cheers all
Rich
 

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When you loosen the bolts to the bevel case pull them out enough so they clear the back part. The shaft has a joint on the end so it will move up and down and back and forth to give you clearance. Make sure you pull back enough to get clearance on the left side then pull away from the drive shaft.
If you tilt the upper part of the bevel gear towards you pnce you clear the gears, it helps keep the damper cam in place also
The real bugger is trying to get it back into place since you are trying to line up the connector with a drive shaft that has a moveable head. Best approach, lots of light on the shaft and get down to eye level to reinsert. Once the teeth are in place, gently push it in then back.
This was the part that probably required the most patience.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
"If you tilt the upper part of the bevel gear towards you pnce you clear the gears, it helps keep the damper cam in place also"
Phew, thought you were calling me a ponce there! :-D Seriously though, thanks for that info, it's really useful!
Regards
Rich
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Thanks for all advice, engine is now out - after removing that pesky bevel case! Thursday, weather permitting as usual, I shall attempt re-entry with the replacement engine!
cheers all
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Well, replacement engine went in today after a bit of a wrestling match! One slight problem though is that I took off the bracket that the clutch cable goes through (silver one, just near the front bevel case) and now I'm not sure I can can get the little bugger back on! It's too close to the frame. Admittedly I havent got all 3 mounting bolts in place yet - the front one is still to be done so maybe that'll tighten things up and give me a bit of room.......I hope!.....Hmmmm just had a look at the pics I took during dismantling and I took the bracket off while the engine was in the frame so I ought to be able to put it back ok!
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Well, engine's in, mounting bolts in, radiator, front exhaust, right footrest, crashbars all in place, carbs reconnected, coolant hoses refitted. Some electrics plugged back in. Biggest problem I'm having is replacing that bloody front bevel box! Turned into a bit of a nightmare actually. Thought it would be easier to withdraw the driveshaft, insert it into the bevel case and replace the whole thing that way. Unfortunately I couldn't do it....then I found I could re-engage the rear end of the driveshaft and I could feel/hear something loose rattling around as I kept trying. Had to remove rear wheel, take off shock absorber and remove the final drive. It was a spring on the end that had dropped off. Got all that back together, managed to engage the front end but could not for the life of me get the bevel box in place :( tried for about an hour and had to give up as it got dark. Just couldn't quite line up the screw holes no matter how much shoving and tapping and swearing I did! Won't get another chance to work on it for a week now, weather permitting. Soooo frustrating! Still, at least I made some progress :)

Cheers all
Rich
 

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Only suggestion I can make with re-installing the bevel gear case is.. get down eye level with it and have plenty of light shining into the shaft. Once you connect with this and the teeth of the gears are seated you can push in and swing the box over in place and worry about the damper cam staying in place. Tilt the top of the box back towards you a little and that helps with keeping the cam from falling out. I also lightly molyed these gears just to keep everything smooth running.
If it gets too frustrating, set it down and walk away from it for a bit.
It seems to be one of those things like the carbs where you struggle and twist and push and swear and all of a sudden, it plops into place!
 

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I can tell you how I did it with only minor problems.

I made sure the drive shaft was seated in the final drive. Then I angled the bevelgear case so I could partially input the driveshaft onto the drive gear. Push toward the rear (compress that spring) and inward...hold with left hand...SLOWLY spin rear tire (turning driveshaft and gears inside bevelgear case) until the gears mate with the trans. output shaft. The case will still not go all the way on (about 1/16" gap) until you torque down the bolts.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
".....If it gets too frustrating, set it down and walk away from it for a bit.
It seems to be one of those things like the carbs where you struggle ......"

Don't talk to me about f£$%ing carbs! I had trouble putting those back on too! It's like some geometrical puzzle, standing with the carbs in your hand, turning them them over and round, scratching your head and thinking 'Jeez, I've just taken them off the old engine but which way round were they for gawd's sake!' :)
Thanks again for advice, as I said previously, it's frustrating not being able to work on the bike except for occasional Sundays. No continuity and it's starting to get a bit nippy for outdoor work too!
Cheers
Rich
 
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