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Discussion Starter #1
I had a major oil leak, noticed a bolt was missing from my Cam chain tensioner. Got a new bolt and realized the tensioner was actually stripped. Would this cause the oil leak? If so does anybody have one that would fit a 91 vn750?
 

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wickedwhip21
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Just fixed the same issue on my bike. It wasn't a major leak, but definitely noticable. :doh:I found a fix on the forum. Tap end out with a 7mm tap, then use a 7mm cap screw. Took me a bit to get it back together. Hat to keep readjusting the innards till I got no play in it. Good to go know!!:smiley_th
 

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x2 on this, sorry it took so long for you to get an answer, that is not common around here!
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Got it installed, and trying to take it on a test ride sometime today. Thanks for all the help, and to Crobins365 for the cheap replacement. I will post back and let you know if this worked.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
OK, CCT took care of the leak, but now the bike is idling funny, real low 1k compared to the 2k it used to idle at. Not sure if this could be due to the part being fixed or what, but it is not wanting to start after I kill it. The battery is new as of 2 months ago. It turns right over when on a charger. Any help would be appreciated. 1991 vn 750.
 

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Linkmeister Supreme
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OK, CCT took care of the leak, but now the bike is idling funny, real low 1k compared to the 2k it used to idle at. Not sure if this could be due to the part being fixed or what, but it is not wanting to start after I kill it. The battery is new as of 2 months ago. It turns right over when on a charger. Any help would be appreciated. 1991 vn 750.
Is it possible you didn`t have the ACCT screwed all the way in when it was installed? Maybe too much pressure from the acct is on the tensioner rails and and it is slowing the engine.

Try screwing the sealing cap off the top and back the adjustment screw off a turn or so. See if it quits idling "funny".

Oh BTW, 2K rpm is too fast for the idle speed anyway. It should be 1100 rpm. :smiley_th
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Is it possible you didn`t have the ACCT screwed all the way in when it was installed? Maybe too much pressure from the acct is on the tensioner rails and and it is slowing the engine.

Try screwing the sealing cap off the top and back the adjustment screw off a turn or so. See if it quits idling "funny".

Oh BTW, 2K rpm is too fast for the idle speed anyway. It should be 1100 rpm. :smiley_th
To be honest, I had a friend that was helping me with any problems but he flaked right before this came up. Sooooo.... I decided that I would put it back together (Not mechanically inclined in the least, but trying) so ANYTHING is possible. I eye balled the distance between the old and new CCT and it looked the same. After getting it installed and the battery charged up I took it out and around town, got up to 55 mph, thinking I just needed to run it. After the trouble the first time, I brought it home charged the battery and got it running again, so I took it out again. It started running hotter than normal (norm is about half way, it is running almost to red now) and when I pulled in the clutch it would rev to 5k and only drop when I released it in a gear, it also is not wanting to start, and is backfiring. I really don't have the cash for a mechanic. I don't know if this is something I can handle or not. Any advise is welcomed! :smiley_th
I will try your advise as soon as I get a chance probably Wednesday or Thursday before I can mess with it again.
 

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If only it had 6th gear..
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This may sound like a stupid question but it is not meant to insult you in any way, I just know that I can be very forgetful myself at times. Did you top off your oil after repairing the ACCT? I'm just running through what might be different after the repair based on what you've said so far. If you lost a significant amount of oil, your stator will run hotter and of course everything else too. Was any other work done on the bike before you got left to finish things on your own? Also learned from folks here that the oil should be right at the top of the sight glass to cool the stator best. Try to give as much info even if it seems unrelated to the current problem. Good luck.
Dave
 

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Linkmeister Supreme
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I eye balled the distance between the old and new CCT and it looked the same.
I assume this means you didn`t turn the adjustment screw all the way into the ACCT body before bolting it down to the cylinder.
That probably means the ACCT mounting bolts were difficult to tighten down, due to the tensioner pushrod head contacting the internal chain tensioner rail before the bolts were torqued down.

The excessive tension on the cam chain would cause friction, slowing down the engine speed and the overheating you describe. Watch for flakes off the chain tensioner rail in the screen at the next oil change. Probably not too serious if you only rode a few miles since the ACCT change. If there is no more flaking apparent in the oil at the second oil change, everything should be ok.

Make sure you turn the tensioner bolt out to relieve excess pressure before starting the bike again.
Let the spring turn it back in, then start the engine and report back how it sounds and runs then.

Good idea to check oil level as Dave suggests in the previous post. :smiley_th
 

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If only it had 6th gear..
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I was thinking about what I did after repairing my stuck float when I posted that last one. I'm trying to start the thing with cylinders full of gas...as well as the gas in the crankcase...oops. The sad thing was that I had the new oil and filter two feet away! And I'm thinkin' "man why won't this thing crank over? Its got a full charge. Doesn't make... aw @$#&!" Ha ha, believe me I thank God it didn't try to fire up and bend a valve.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Did check the oil, but ol hoss is right on the money, had to put pressure on the ACCT to get it in. I will back it off and see if that helps. Thanks you guys, and no offense taken at the oil idea, like I said ANYTHING is possible.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
OK, pulled the ACCT off and installed it the correct way this time (Thanks Ol Hoss) and it is idling right where it should be (thanks again Ol Hoss), but now there is white smoke coming out of the r pipe. Going to repeat the process on the R side and see if this helps.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
OK, seems to be running much smoother, but it is still idling higher than it should when it gets warm. I got it to where it was purring like a kitten at 1100 1300 rpms, and took it out for a ride. maybe 5 miles in it starts revving up to 3-4k without the clutch engaged. Didn't seem to be overheating though. Any more suggestions?
 

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Linkmeister Supreme
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OK, seems to be running much smoother, but it is still idling higher than it should when it gets warm. I got it to where it was purring like a kitten at 1100 1300 rpms, and took it out for a ride. maybe 5 miles in it starts revving up to 3-4k without the clutch engaged. Didn't seem to be overheating though. Any more suggestions?
Are the clutch cable and throttle cables in good condition, lubricated, and properly adjusted for freeplay?

When you release the throttle, does the throttle return spring snap it closed?
 

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Linkmeister Supreme
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OK, pulled the ACCT off and installed it the correct way this time (Thanks Ol Hoss) and it is idling right where it should be (thanks again Ol Hoss), but now there is white smoke coming out of the r pipe. Going to repeat the process on the R side and see if this helps.
White smoke (water/coolant vapor?) in the exhaust can indicate a blown head gasket leaking coolant into the combustion chamber. :(

Black smoke often means too much gas, and running rich.
Blue smoke is usually burning oil from worn rings or valve guides.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
cables might be worth checking, seems to only happen after riding for a while. White smoke went away after running it for a bit. Thinking it might be time to take it to a shop.
 

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hey blue. is it humid where you live?? if so the white smoke at start up could just be condensation in the pipes from sitting... and i think hoss has it right with your RPM's wiggin out. check the throttle return :) happy wrenching
 

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Discussion Starter #18
It is very humid where I live, seems that the smoke cleared up. What is the best way to go about lubricating the throttle cable?
 

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Funky idling could be due to a vacuum leak somewhere. Get the bike running and spray something like WD40 at all the possible trouble spots: carb boots into the plenum, boots holding the air box onto the other end of the plenum, etc. If the rpms shoot up when you hit one of those areas with the spray, you've found the leak.

Another thought on the white smoke problem is that the coolant could be leaking into the oil via an old mechanical seal. You can find that inside the right side engine cover (no engine pull needed for the repair - hooray!). But if it's really gone now, jsut file that away for future reference. :)
 

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Linkmeister Supreme
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It is very humid where I live, seems that the smoke cleared up. What is the best way to go about lubricating the throttle cable?
I have not yet had to lube clutch or throttle cables, but there are specialty fittings and spray lube to do the job.

However a cheap simple method is to use a plastic sandwich baggie with the corner cut off.
Stick one end of the cable and sheath inside the bag through the cut off corner and use a rubber band or tape to seal the bag to the top of the cable sheath.

Pour a small amount of your cable lube of choice into the corner of the baggie and watch the bottom of the cable for the first drops of oil to work themselves down the inside length of the sheath.
Common sense tells me to slide the cables back and forth as far as possible inside the sheaths to check/ensure even distribution of lubricant and smooth cable operation.

Edit to add link: http://www.dansmc.com/cables.htm

WARNING: If you have TEFLON lined sheaths, they do not require lubrication, and oil will actually cause the lining to swell and ruin it.

I think all our cables have fittings at both ends, so it is not possible to pull them out of the sheath to check for rust or wire strand breakage.
 
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