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Git-R-Done!
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Ok guys - I need some help here.

Bought this bike last weekend, weather was beautiful (60's), rode it home, no problem.

Went out once this week to start it in the morning, was a little tough, but it strarted. Went out this morning - bike would not start, and sounded like battery was dying. Went down, bought brand new AGM battery, put it in, bike still does not turn easily, and will not start. Every now and then, get an extremely loud backfire out of the exhaust pipe.

Read all the other threads on here, tried everything I can think of; won't start, and can hardly get it to even fire. Temp has now warmed up, don't know what to do.

Any ideas or advice? The bike is in great condition, only 7700 miles, and ran beautifully just last week...???

Help!

AZ Kev
 

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Undercover Sportbiker
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If you did not charge the batt before installing that could be the problem. It is also not unheard of for a batt to be non-op right out of the box. Not common, but not unheard of. I'd start by charging it and if that doesn't work, take it back for a trade in.
 

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If the stator is bad, the battery won't charge, and as soon as it runs out of juice... you're done.

Once the battery is re-charged, check the battery voltage with the engine running and revved up to around 3k rpm or so. It should read close to 14V. If it's less than 13V, it's not charging, and you need to address the seller.... as a stator (alternator) is a PITA to change if bad, as the entire engine needs removed.

Good Luck!
 

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Old Truck Junkie
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Check your grounds at the frame. Also check all the big cable connections. Especially the ones going to the starter. And the ground from the frame to the engine.
 

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You should really use a voltmeter here to see if the battery is fully charged... and then to see what kinda voltage you're getting elsewhere, like at the starter solenoid and such.
 

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Premium Member
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And while you have the meter out, check the amps. Had a battery that tested around 13 volts, but had zero amps.
 

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Just remember that for checking the amps you have to put the meter in line (in series) with the circuit, not parallel like with checking volts.
 

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Just remember that for checking the amps you have to put the meter in line (in series) with the circuit, not parallel like with checking volts.
Alternator (stator) output cannot be checked like this, as the voltage regulator will limit the current (amps) so the battery does not get overcharged.

It will read the full output if the battery is nearly dead, as it can accept the full current, but other than that, it won't read the full amount, as it's limited by the voltage regulator.

Best bet is to check the battery voltage with it running. Typically, it will be around 13.8V to 14.2V with it revved up to 3-4k rpm. If the bike is not charging, it will generally be around 12.8V or less.

Good Luck!
 

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I meant what I said towards measuring amps going from the battery to the starter system... not the stator's output... I'm not that great on electric stuff though, I might still be wrong.
 

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Assuming that your battery is ok, you may check the starter. I think the previous posts were getting off course. A bad stator will not stop you from starting. And an AGM battery should be sealed and fully charged. So I think you may need to run through the fuel system and the ignition. If you got a backfire, your probably getting fuel and spark. But I would start with the Carb. You may have a stuck float or something, and your carb is super rich. If you are putting the choke on and your carbs are running really rich then it will be hard to start and will backfire. If you think this may be the case, dont choke it. While you are starting it open up a throttle a little. This will help lean out the air and get it started. If you are already giving it throttle and it is not making a difference, you may have the oposite problem. You may be gummed up. Try rhe Seafoam trick. I havent done it but many of the members here swear by it.
 

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And an AGM battery should be sealed and fully charged.
My AGM battery came with the liquid separately... I had to put the liquid in, wait for it to get absorbed, then put the cover on (which is not meant to come off again) and then charge it for a long ass time to full charge.

Some people do this before selling the battery, but you can't really know how well they are charged unless you check them.

I actually prefer the way I had to do it, cause at least I know I charged it right from the start and I know for sure it's a brand new, never used battery.
 

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My AGM battery came with the liquid separately... I had to put the liquid in, wait for it to get absorbed, then put the cover on (which is not meant to come off again) and then charge it for a long ass time to full charge.

Some people do this before selling the battery, but you can't really know how well they are charged unless you check them.

I actually prefer the way I had to do it, cause at least I know I charged it right from the start and I know for sure it's a brand new, never used battery.
An AGM battery has no acid to pour in. It's sealed. Yours doesn't seem to be an AGM battery.
 

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'03 VN750 "Rosie"
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+1 on what VN750fl said. Take a look at your fuel system. Did you shut the petcock off when you put it away last? If left on, fuel can run flood the engine. Ditto with a stuck float. Is the petcock on while you're cranking it? I had that problem when I bought mine last summer; The seller was trying to start it for me and couldn't till I asked about the petcock and she said, "oh yeah...". I turned it on and waited 30 seconds then she started the first try.

The surest way to start my 03 cold is full choke and no throttle, even in summer. Then I back off the choke little by little.
 

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Premium Member
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AGM batteries do contain acid. AGM = Absorbed Glass Mat. The acid is absorbed into the mat so it can't spill, but there is still acid in it.
 

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Old Truck Junkie
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My AGM battery came with the liquid separately... I had to put the liquid in, wait for it to get absorbed, then put the cover on (which is not meant to come off again) and then charge it for a long ass time to full charge.

Some people do this before selling the battery, but you can't really know how well they are charged unless you check them.

I actually prefer the way I had to do it, cause at least I know I charged it right from the start and I know for sure it's a brand new, never used battery.
This is the process that i had to go through too.
 

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AGM batteries do contain acid. AGM = Absorbed Glass Mat. The acid is absorbed into the mat so it can't spill, but there is still acid in it.
I've never heard of having to pour acid into an AGM battery, but if others are having to do it...

As for the other question... IF the battery is good and it still won't start, then you're back to checking for fire, fuel, timing, etc. Just be aware that sometimes the battery can be good enough crank the engine, but not adequately fire the ignition.

Good Luck!
 

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Where did you get the Battery from? After years of great luck with Westco, I went through two Batteries that were not fully charged and would not fully charge enough to start my bike. I'm still waiting for a refund on the second battery but did pick-up an AGM battery from Batteries Plus that has been excellent. Also, like mentioned, check the ground wire attached to the frame and make sure it is attached to bare metal.....................
 

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I've never heard of having to pour acid into an AGM battery, but if others are having to do it...
You only need to add it once. After that, it's maintenance free. So if it's filled before you buy it, like most AGM batteries, you wouldn't need to add anything.
 

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Kev, since the bike is new to you and while all the above advice is good and in depth, maybe you should try the simple stuff first. Since you're getting a backfire from time to time I take it that the motor is cranking. Assuming that then it seems you may have a mixture problem when the bike is cold. On my bike starting when the weather is very cold and the bike hasn't run in a while is not a piece of cake. What works best for me is the following: I put the choke full on and twist the throttle twice. As soon as she fires up I ease up on the choke just a little. I found that the mixture is critical on the cold bike and it is easy to flood it and make it almost impossible to start.

Let it stand for a while, put the choke on full and don't give it any more gas. Crank it for 10 or 15 seconds at a clip and see if she starts. Don't crank it for longer without interruption as that may damage the starter. If this does not work then follow the good advice of the members and get into it with a meter and see if your voltages are good. You may also want to verify that you're getting high voltage to the plugs.

Good luck buddy
 

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There seems to be a rash of threads recently reporting the purchase of brand new D.O.A. batteries, from recommended manufactures and sources. However, none of those threads, that I've seen, ever mentioned a D.O.A. Yuasa battery. Yuasa batteries are not that much more than others recommended on this forum and seem to have very few, if any, sudden failures. They can also be purchased filled and fully charged or unfilled (you add the electrolyte, seal and charge) for less than $80. Mine was $70, fully charged and delivered to my door three years ago. Bike sits for over a month this time of year with no battery tender and still starts right up, every time. It is as strong today as the day it was first installed.
 
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