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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Greetings Vulcanites --

I've got the front wheel off and waiting for delivery of Oil/Dust seals to finish replacement of fork oil seals. So, in the meantime I'm replacing the front brake pads. I found out how to remove the old pads by doing a forum search! :smiley_th

The new inboard pad is firmly in place but the outboard pad doesn't seem to attach firmly. If I jiggle the caliper assembly the outboard pad wants to fall out. Is this normal? I haven't tried to put the wheel on yet because I still need to finish the seals. Will I be able to put the pads onto the disk by holding them in place?

Thanx! :beerchug:
 

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The Professor
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Greetings Vulcanites --

I've got the front wheel off and waiting for delivery of Oil/Dust seals to finish replacement of fork oil seals. So, in the meantime I'm replacing the front brake pads. I found out how to remove the old pads by doing a forum search! :smiley_th

The new inboard pad is firmly in place but the outboard pad doesn't seem to attach firmly. If I jiggle the caliper assembly the outboard pad wants to fall out. Is this normal? I haven't tried to put the wheel on yet because I still need to finish the seals. Will I be able to put the pads onto the disk by holding them in place?

Thanx! :beerchug:

Once installed and compressed they will be fine. I do suggest you use Valvoline DOT 4 Synthetic fluid. :smiley_th

Make sure inboard pad is seated properly.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Once installed and compressed they will be fine. I do suggest you use Valvoline DOT 4 Synthetic fluid. :smiley_th

Make sure inboard pad is seated properly.
Thanx Lance! :smiley_th
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
UPDATE: Brake Pads Replacement Finished!

Howdy Folks --

I was having withdrawal symptoms from not riding in 2 weeks. Instead, I've been waiting on parts and wrenching to fix the last set of gremlins: leaking seals, fork oil on brake pads, 2nd melted R/R connector.

Everythings is done now including brake pads replacement and bleeding of very old brake fluid (see photo below). I don't think the fluid was EVER changed. One screw on the master cylinder was completely rounded/stripped. I used an extractor/easy out to remove and replace the screw. WOW! It felt great to finally go on a short ride tonight especially after doing all my own wrenching WITH THIS FORUM'S HELP! :smiley_th Everything seems to be working well!

When I removed the old bleed valve to replace it with a speed bleeder the fluid drained much quicker than I expected. Hence, the master cylinder went dry. So, I had to remove the union bolt and bleed the master cylinder--WHAT A FREEKIN MESS !^%*> :mad:

NEWBIE TIP: Stand by with an open can of brake fluid--DO NOT let the master cylinder run dry! :doh:

Life is good again! At least until the next attack of the gremlins.

My thanx to Lance and everyone for your help in fixing all the many gremlins over the last few weeks! :beerchug:

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Once installed and compressed they will be fine. I do suggest you use Valvoline DOT 4 Synthetic fluid. :smiley_th

Make sure inboard pad is seated properly.
Hey Lance --

UPDATE: Still working on the front brakes while waiting for fork seals.

On the right caliper the inboard and outboard pads are both now securely in place. :smiley_th

On the left caliper the inboard pad is securely seated in place; however, I can't get the outboard pad to snap in at all. Also, the space between the two pads seems very narrow. I did remove a bit of brake fluid from the master cylinder to make room for the new pads.

Can I just hold the outboard pad in place when I mount the caliper onto the disk? Will that work?

Thanx!
 

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The Professor
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Hey Lance --

UPDATE: Still working on the front brakes while waiting for fork seals.

On the right caliper the inboard and outboard pads are both now securely in place. :smiley_th

On the left caliper the inboard pad is securely seated in place; however, I can't get the outboard pad to snap in at all. Also, the space between the two pads seems very narrow. I did remove a bit of brake fluid from the master cylinder to make room for the new pads.

Can I just hold the outboard pad in place when I mount the caliper onto the disk? Will that work?

Thanx!

Did you compress the pistons in ALL the way? :beerchug:
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Did you compress the pistons in ALL the way? :beerchug:

Lance --

I squeezed them really hard and they finally compressed all the way.

Many Thanx!! :beerchug:
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Synthetic vs. Non-Synthetic Brake fluid?

Once installed and compressed they will be fine. I do suggest you use Valvoline DOT 4 Synthetic fluid. :smiley_th

Make sure inboard pad is seated properly.

Hey Lance --

What is the advantage of Valvoline DOT 4 Synthetic brake fluid? I stayed with non-synthetic this time but I will upgrade to steel brake lines in the future. I may want to switch to Synthetic at that time.

Thanx! :beerchug:
 

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The Professor
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Hey Lance --

What is the advantage of Valvoline DOT 4 Synthetic brake fluid? I stayed with non-synthetic this time but I will upgrade to steel brake lines in the future. I may want to switch to Synthetic at that time.

Thanx! :beerchug:
It will not break down by heat and has a higher flash point. Better braking, less spongy feel. Last longer and is less suseptible to absorbe moisture. :beerchug:
 

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FlaRider,

I've been running synthetic in mine for a year now and the brakes still feel real good. You can buy the small bottle pretty cheap and it's enough to flush and fill.

You won't regret using it it. If you do.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
FlaRider,

I've been running synthetic in mine for a year now and the brakes still feel real good. You can buy the small bottle pretty cheap and it's enough to flush and fill.

You won't regret using it it. If you do.
Doug and Lance --

Is there any special procedure for removing all of the non-synthetic fluid? Do you have to change the brake lines?

Thanx for your explanations! :beerchug:
 

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Did you compress the pistons in ALL the way? :beerchug:
Lance --

I squeezed them really hard and they finally compressed all the way.

Many Thanx!! :beerchug:
Note to any other first time front brake pad changers having trouble pushing the brake caliper piston backdown. If you can`t push the piston down with your fingers, try using a c-clamp to push against the old brake pad until the piston is flush with the caliper surface. I`ve been using this method on cars for 30+ years.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Note to any other first time front brake pad changers having trouble pushing the brake caliper piston backdown. If you can`t push the piston down with your fingers, try using a c-clamp to push against the old brake pad until the piston is flush with the caliper surface. I`ve been using this method on cars for 30+ years.
Great tip, OlHoss! :smiley_th

I'll add some c-clamps to my growing collection of tools.

Thanx! :beerchug:
 

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The Professor
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Doug and Lance --

Is there any special procedure for removing all of the non-synthetic fluid? Do you have to change the brake lines?

Thanx for your explanations! :beerchug:
Just open bleeders and connect a hose to them and stick hose in a bottle. Let M/C drain, after it drains fill with synthetic and let that drain. All old fluid should be out, fill M/C again,and when fluid comes out of the bleeders close the bleeders. Now start to bleed the air out of the system, start with the left front. Squeeze brake and hold thehen open bleeder till lever stops then close bleeder. Slowly pump the lever, squeeze tight and repeat the bleeding process 3-4 times untill air is removed and repeat for other side. Keep an eye on the fluid level, fill when needed. :beerchug:
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Just open bleeders and connect a hose to them and stick hose in a bottle. Let M/C drain, after it drains fill with synthetic and let that drain. All old fluid should be out, fill M/C again,and when fluid comes out of the bleeders close the bleeders. Now start to bleed the air out of the system, start with the left front. Squeeze brake and hold thehen open bleeder till lever stops then close bleeder. Slowly pump the lever, squeeze tight and repeat the bleeding process 3-4 times untill air is removed and repeat for other side. :beerchug:
Okay, got it Lance!

Many Thanx!! :beerchug:
 

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The Professor
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There are other methods of bleeding but most people don't have a Pressure or Vacuum bleeder, I have both. This method has been around since the first hydraulic brake and still works today. :beerchug:
 
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