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Discussion Starter #1
Might be a stupid question, but, I was wondering where to get brake lines for a 92 VN750? I am having the same problem as another person, I MityVac'd the front lines until I thought I was getting fresh, air free fluid, and the lines seem to tighten up overnight. So much that I can't squeeze the brake lever. I have also tried bleeding them numerous times and still goes back to the same thing. I tried the tied brake lever last night and still it seems stiff. I thought it might be constricted lines, as the bike was sitting for a little while before I bought it. :BLAM: Any thoughts? Thanks.
 

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Could your calipers pistons be seized? Have you ridden the bike and used the front brakes?

I put stainless lines on mine for just under $100, money well spent.

Jon
 

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Where'd you get the stainless for < $100, and were they hard to replace?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Yeah, I ride it everyday. But I have to make sure that I check the lever before I ride to make sure it's not really hard. I bleed a little out and I'm all set for a 100 mile ride, which I just did last weekend. I just don't get it. Are the pads supposed to be resting on the disc's? Or a little gap? It seems like I can hear the pads riding on the disc's, but I have pulled over mid-ride, 50 miles in or so, and the disc's arn't hot, at all. Sitting in traffic, riding for awhile, etc. I've cleaned it all up with BrakeCleen and it looks really good, but it is still stiffing up over time. I just don't get it. I'd like to get the new lines, but where did you get them for that price?
 

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HAWK
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I have seen them on Ebay, Galfer lines I believe is the name.
Buy it now for in the $80's
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Alright, I'll check it out. Anyone have an idea about what I said above? Thanks!
 

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HAWK
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There is not a space between the pads and the rotors, they do ride on the rotors normaly.
There is no pressure on them so no wear, you may hear a little but normal.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Excellent, then I know that is correct. I just don't understand the lines/lever getting harder over night, even during the tied down brake lever trick. Do you think that it is air in the lines still? 2 flushes with a MityVac and it still isn't keeping "soft".
 

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HAWK
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You really dont want a soft brake.
How much can you squeese it.
You shouldnt be able to get it to the bars, my max brake is about half way to the bar, any farther and I would be afraid of locking the fr brake.
Air in the line will cause a soft feeling.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Well it's different every time really, when it sits over night is when it get's really stiff and I cannot squeeze it one bit. But I can bleed a little fluid out and it will back off on pressure. Then it's fine to ride on. I have heard that you can flush rubbing alcohol through the lines, then put more DOT4 fluid back in it. Hopefully this would loosen up the junk and crap in the lines? Is this a good or bad idea, haven't done it yet?
 

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HAWK
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NOt rubbing, Denatured (sp)
I did it to one car, ended up replacing the system anyway.
 

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and the Adventure Cycle
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I agree with Chad about how the brakes will feel if there's air in them.
Air will compress, fluid will not.
It would seem to me that something is stopping the fluid from getting through the lines somewhere. And if it feels REALLY stiff, I'd guess at the master cylinder. The stock brake lines would probably expand enough that you'd feel atleast some movement in the lever if they were plugged at the caliper or at the splitter joint.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Could be, I cleaned out the master cylinder before I put more fluid through it. It was like molassas from sitting, some I'm sure that there is some of the junk farther in the lines. Where can I get denatured alcohol? Price? Thanks guys!
 

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I think I might have had the other post you refer'd to....I was experiencing the same problem....I'd bleed,,,and bleed some more...but my brake lever would "tighten" up over time/over night. In the end I'm not really sure what the fix was since, I rebuilt the master, bother calipers, and got steel brake lines. I heard it more than once, when trying to get "quick fixes" for this problem..."Why are ya messing around with 21 year old brakes"...(mine is an 86'). In my case...it just made sense to rebuild it all....rather than to worry. I got both kits for under 50 bucks....the steel lines, I paid thru the nose for from a local guy, but I was impatient and could have done better online. The point is....for under $200.00 you can be done with your worries, and at that price you could probably replace the pads also. The real question is "how much are good front brakes worth on YOUR motorcycle"?
 

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The alcohol method can be used to clean the lines of debris and old fluid, however if the lines are soft/pliable internally and collapsing on themselves--it won't do you a bit of good. It sounds like your lines are shot, especially since you have a hard lever problem. It may be the calipers sticking also but this would be uncommon unless it sat for quite some time or had water in the brake fluid (causing the pistons to corrode or rust).
If it were a soft/spongey lever I would say air in the system somewhere or a master cylinder. This is the problem I am having on my 86 VN700 I have air in the system yet or a bad master, however the lever worked fine last year but after sitting in the garage all winter the lever was hard. I couldn't pull it back to save my life. When I finally did get it freed up the lever would not return forward all the way and my brake light stayed on and the front tire locked up. I bled the system several times, tied the lever back several nights, rebuilt the master cylinder and it is still spongey--I get it working great return to the garage the next day and I can pull the lever all the way back to the throttle then the second and third pull the lever/brake is normal. I am tearing the calipers apart next week to clean them up and put in new seals/o-rings. By the way if the lever will not return forward--my master cylinder had corrosion all over the cylinder the lever pushes on (behind the little rubber boot) and was getting stuck in the master cylinder so I had all kinds of play in the lever since it wouldn't come back out.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Well the lever returns fine, as long as I bleed some out before I ride. But I don't wanna bleed them out every single time I ride. I mean, it's a small fix to do when I actually do bleed them out, it just gets old, as the front brake works fine when I do bleed it out. I've been looking for some brake lines online, but I can only find the old rubber ones, no steel anywhere. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks guys!
 

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I bought mine here http://sumofallparts.net/, give them a call, ask for Donovan.

Galfer part numer FK003D24-3, (3) piece set.

$ 96.85 shipped.

Jon
 

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One of the things to look for when you bled the brakes on the VN750 - if you let go of the brake lever quickly, you should get a small fountian of brake fluid rising out of the master cylinder (and if not careful onto your tank - very BAD). If no fountian, then the return hole MAY be plugged up and your master cylinder needs rebuilding (sometimes you can get by without any new parts but as said earlier why?).

To confirm its the master cylinder and not calipers siezing, put some clear line on a bleeder (holding it vertically) and pump some fluid in it. Then leave the bleeder open and pump and release (this may introduce air and would require more bleeding) - if the fluid in the clear line does not go back down as the break lever is released, it is for sure your master cylinder.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Which hole is the return hole if your looking down into the master cylinder, with the cap off obviously! I cleaned out the entire unit, as it was stuff with gunky brake fluid. Maybe I should clean it again?
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I don't know the problem at all......p*ssing me off too! I just re-bleed them, thinking maybe I screwed up last time, but I'm getting the same thing.....I'll bleed them, then the brake lever will get harder and harder the more I squeeze it. I can still ride it and the wheel spins freely, lever not sticking as I lubed the pluger and made sure there was no gunk on or around it, just seems like it's sucking up air the more I squeeze it? Now the brake is at full stop in probably an inch or so from totally released lever, if that makes sense? I guess I might just get the steel braided lines and hopefully that will fix it. Stupid brakes, who needs them anyways!
 
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