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Discussion Starter #1
I've seen a few posts about tying the brake lever down over night to enhance the bleeding process. (or maybe instead of?)

Anyway, what I haven't seen is what to do with the top on the master cylinder.

Do you leave it on and tightened down?

Leave it on loose with the screws removed?

Leave it off altogether and cover the MC with a rag or something? (obviously it wouldn't be a good idea to leave the MC wide open for any length of time)

TIA.
 

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you just leave it tight and on and pump up the lever to build up pressure then tie it down
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thank you James. I bled them the standard way, then read about this "technique" and thought I'd try it as well.
 

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I would just for good measure take and hit the bleeder one more time before you remove the tie. I used an old bandana to tie mine down.
 

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Another little trick is at some mid point of the "overnight process" is to go out to the bike and using the handle of a screwdriver, whack the brake lines. Start from the bottom by the calipher and hit the line "briskly" ...work your way up on both sides and then do the line to the master cylnder.

This helps any tiny bubbles that are stuck to the sides of the hose to find their way up.


KM
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I didn't do it until today actually, when I went out to remove the drive unit. I thought if I clamped while I work on the back, the locked front will help keep me from rolling it off the center stand.

So it's only been a couple hours, and I'll probably take it off later this evening. I just used a zip strap...
 

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When I tried this it worked like a charm, Thanks for the advice!!
 

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seals

One thing that is NOT mentioned about this trick, while it does work and works good for that matter is that if you have any weak seals in the brake system this will tell on you. With the extended time frame of constant pressure on them they will tend to leak if in a weakened state. Do at your own risk so to speak LOL :smiley_th

Now if we can only keep the calipers from sticking after being pressed. The older ones tend to do that. Do make sure your wheel turns freely after squeezing the lever. Just in case :) :motorcycl
 

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Discussion Starter #12
LOL! Thanks for that info; most helpful I'd say. I'd rather find out parked in the garage than on the road anyway.

Fortunately everything held, no leaks, no problems, and a definite improvement in the lever feel.

Gotta love the low-cost, low effort improvements. Thanks guys! ;)
 

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I just bled mine yesterday and did the clamp down for about 6 hours and it worked like a charm. All of the advice/directions in the verses are priceless. I let gravity bleed my lines one at a time and they both were drained within 35 minutes. Thanks to all the subbys on this topic! :notworthy
 

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I can also attest to the validity of the overnight pressurization / line-whacking procedure. I was a little skeptical at first but it definitely made a noticable improvement in lever feel. Thanks, folks! :smiley_th:motorcycl
 

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Can I get a link of more specifics on bleeding the front brakes?
We have a VN750 1985. Just put on a new (used) Master but could not
get it pressured and then get the banjo bolt on etc. The Clymbers manual say's to use Thumb and pump and pressure and then quickly put on the banjo bolt on but that's like impossible. Anyway this is a 1985 and the lines are rusty and it's just difficult to figure out what to do. Any help would be appriciated.
 
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