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Concert connoisseur
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Since this has been a problem with me and many members here I thought I'd post some decent pics since I have my bike apart since all these parts are so hard to see with the motor in!

Here is the T connection between the carbs that comes off the vent from each carb



This is the hose coming off the t which should go to the right ear, the end closest to my fingers is what you want to cut at a 45 degree angle





And lastly here is a pic of the right ears backside, the hose should be pushed into the round hole below the square hole, I wrapped a few layers of tape around mine to make it snug, the 45 degree cut just keeps it from bottoming out so it can get air, but not too much.



hope this helps in someone in the future! If the mods dont sticky this I will save it to my sig line for quick reference. might keep someone from tearing down their carbs when they dont need to!
 

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Concert connoisseur
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Thanks for the sticky, saves room in my sig line for mods!

And to further explain the symptoms, the bike might run fine right up to 50mph and then star to sputter and hesitate, rough through it and get up to 55-60 and it straightens out! this is what mine and several others did. mine was missing the t and hose to the ear plus one off the carb, replaced all that and never had a problem since, why at 50mph only is beyond me, i would think it would be 50 and up but wasnt the case.hope this helps!!!!
 

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I am having the same issue with mine bogging down at about 4000-5000 RPM. I noticed that on mine, I have a total of 3 hoses for the carb, 2 going from the tank to supply fuel to the carbs and one vacuum line going form the left carb to the 3 position valve coming out of the tank. I don't have any T linking the 2 carbs. I noticed that on the right carb there is a plug as shown on the picture. I f put a T as shown in Sticky video, where should I connect these?
Thanks,
Charles
 

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Super Moderator
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there is a fitting on each carb (in the 'middle' of the sandwich) that vents each bowl.

you need a vent on them fittings. you can do individual lines for each carb, but most take short hoses from the fittings to a "T" fitting, then a single line from there to a dead air spot. Under tank is good (on top of a frame rail, or on the extra fitting on plastic cover for the fuel gauge), or if you still have ears, the right ear.

the pics you posted are of the outside facing parts of the carb. the lines there and the plug are correct if your ear shaved.
 

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I did find the T as you mentioned after a second look. The T do connect both carbs and then a hose coming out of the T goes under the tank . Since I am experiencing the issue that Wib714 is talking about, maybe I need to take that hose to the right ear to restrict the air a little bit.
 

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where under the tank does it go? if it goes to the nipple where the fuel sender is, or is secured to the top of a frame rail in same area, you may have a different problem. those 2 locations are where most people put the hose and have no problems.
 

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FREEBIRDS MC CENTRAL NY
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Yes I always go for the nipple ;)
 

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The tube was left open under the tank. I got 6 more inches of tubing and connected to the right ear above the square hole of the air cleaner and making sure that the tubing was cut at 45 degree as mentioned on the post above. Everything is now working fine at 4000-5000 rpm.
Thank you all for your help!!
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Bump, and what happened to all the stickies?
 

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Diesel Tech
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Mine is tucked into the harness bundle with a sintered bronze fuel filter on the end to keep out dust and spiders.
 

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I am having the same issue! I was out riding with my dad and every time I got around 4000-5000 RPMs or 50-60 mph it started sputtering. My dad thought it may be a fuel-air ratio. I will have to show him this forum and see what he thinks. He helped me do an Ear shave a couple weeks ago.
 
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