Without looking it up, I think the blue wire mod only bypasses the relay, not the RLU.
You're right.Without looking it up, I think the blue wire mod only bypasses the relay, not the RLU.
http://www.vn750.com/forum/19-electrical/87625-guide-bypassing-reserve-lighting-unit-2.htmlAhhhhh, so maybe I didn't need to do the mod in the first place. This LED light was "supposed" to be plug and play. Comes with an inline driver that is supposed to stop error messages due to lower wattage.
Does anyone know if the OPT7 LED bulb needs either of these mods?
12-14ga primary wire is good.Okay, I'll keep the blue wire mod and then do the RLU bypass as well.
What type of wire is best for the jump?
Thanks for the help everyone!
You're welcome, same to you!Thanks Spockster!! Have a great holiday!!
Pretty sure its the LAW to run a headlight on your Motorcycle here in sunny Florida.So......my Stator pooped out so tried the "Battery tender" thing,was OK but really tough to figure when that battery would die...then leave you sitting/walking.Not a enjoyable way to ride!! :frown2:Hey that is a good idea if a stator goes out, pull the headlight fuse and just ride in the daytime. You can do the switch mod later if you decide to replace the stator. I would guess pulling the fuse would cut the power to everything related to the head light circuit. Will have to look at a good wiring diagram, the ones I've found so far for the vulcan are terrible, small, black and white, plus blurred out.
Can you explain this with wire colors and step by step instructions I did the blue wire mod and would like to install a switch?For the Blue wire mod cons - Headlight stays on when key is turned on, which obviously takes power away from starting.
What I did was splice in a good quality mini toggle switch between the ground headlight wire inside the headlight cover, drilled a small hole in the lower head light cover to run the mini toggle switch through. The switch can then be off for starting, then easily turned on when warmed up and ready to ride. Very inexpensive easy fix to get full power for starting, after doing the Mod.
The reserve lighting unit will automatically switch from low beam to high beam if it detects a filament failure. Without you having to toggle the headlight switch. If there is any intention on going to an LED headlight, it could cause flickering because the LED bulbs do not consume as much power as the stock incandescent bulbs. It can be bypassed very simply by using a jumper across 2 pins on the connector. That mod can be easily found on here (with pics) by running a search on “RLU bypass”What is the “reserve” lighting unit for?
And how do I check it’s working please?
As still baffled as to why I have power going to the blue wire from the headlight fuse, but no power at the light... 🤔
There's another con to it you won't be able to jump the bike if need be cause it causes the voltage to back fire and starts heating the jumper cables I did and it didn't work so I just decided to order a new wire harnessIt actually moves it to a pin that is protected by the TAIL fuse, also 10 amps, so the headlight is still completely protected. You can even move the 'dash' lights (red/blue wire) to the originally empty spot (pin 17, tail-light fuse protected), and move the headlight (blue) to where the red/blue wire was. That gives you all the benefits of the mod while keeping the headlight on the headlight fuse for OCD people.
Crowley said the pros and cons would surely be discussed, but nobody discussed! Here's my take on it:
1. Protects against a dead headlight due to headlight relay failure.
2. Your headlight comes on as soon as you turn the ignition to 'on'.
3. No wires cut means this mod is completely reversible.
1. Since the headlight will come on when you turn the ignition to 'on', it lowers the available voltage to the starter motor.
I'm also going to recommend an additional step to the mod:
Remove the smaller, ten pin molex connector from the junction box. Using a small screwdriver, release the retaining pin on the yellow wire's blade connector (pin 9), which should be the second wire up on the back row.Cover the blade connector in shrink wrap and heat it until securely insulated.Use a small zip tie to gently but firmly secure this wire to the bundle of yellow stator wires that go to the rectifier/regulator so it doesn't wander somewhere it shouldn't.
4. Protects your stator from burning out if the headlight relay coil shorts out. (the safer the better)
5. Protects the starter relay (the one outside the junction box) from the constant unregulated voltage pulses it usually gets from the stator.
I've jumped my bike with the blue mod in place, no problem. Voltage back fire? Sounds like you might have a short in your system.There's another con to it you won't be able to jump the bike if need be cause it causes the voltage to back fire and starts heating the jumper cables I did and it didn't work so I just decided to order a new wire harness