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Without looking it up, I think the blue wire mod only bypasses the relay, not the RLU.
You're right.

There's a thread here somewhere about an RLU bypass.
 

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Ahhhhh, so maybe I didn't need to do the mod in the first place. This LED light was "supposed" to be plug and play. Comes with an inline driver that is supposed to stop error messages due to lower wattage.

Does anyone know if the OPT7 LED bulb needs either of these mods?

Thanks!
David
 

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Ahhhhh, so maybe I didn't need to do the mod in the first place. This LED light was "supposed" to be plug and play. Comes with an inline driver that is supposed to stop error messages due to lower wattage.

Does anyone know if the OPT7 LED bulb needs either of these mods?

Thanks!
David
http://www.vn750.com/forum/19-electrical/87625-guide-bypassing-reserve-lighting-unit-2.html

Thorn wrote this guide too.

edit : I guess this is the same one he posted earlier.

Looks like the RLU just isn't happy with the OPT7.

I would keep the blue wire mod. You have an LED headlight now, and the relays in the JB are trouble. You just bypassed one.
 

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Okay, I'll keep the blue wire mod and then do the RLU bypass as well.

What type of wire is best for the jump?

Thanks for the help everyone!

Sincerely,
David
 

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Okay, I'll keep the blue wire mod and then do the RLU bypass as well.

What type of wire is best for the jump?

Thanks for the help everyone!

Sincerely,
David
12-14ga primary wire is good.
 

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Hey that is a good idea if a stator goes out, pull the headlight fuse and just ride in the daytime. You can do the switch mod later if you decide to replace the stator. I would guess pulling the fuse would cut the power to everything related to the head light circuit. Will have to look at a good wiring diagram, the ones I've found so far for the vulcan are terrible, small, black and white, plus blurred out.
Pretty sure its the LAW to run a headlight on your Motorcycle here in sunny Florida.So......my Stator pooped out so tried the "Battery tender" thing,was OK but really tough to figure when that battery would die...then leave you sitting/walking.Not a enjoyable way to ride!! :frown2:
 

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Did this, made going through the lights electric system much better. Plus I like it just coming on with the key and knowing the headlight is working right away.

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk
 

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Got the RLU bypass done a few days back. It solved the flicker-y Headlight light on the dash! And, after the blue wire mod, the light comes on when the key turns, which is very nice. Also, the LED has a much better spread and is just brighter at night.

I also replaced my rear brake/running light with two LEDs. Changing these and the headlight to LED has really reduced the dim of lights at idle while the brake light is being activated like at a stop light.

There is a barely noticeable flicker with the new LEDs only at idle, but it's very minimal and I don't think I'm going to worry about it.

Thanks for the help guys!
 

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For the Blue wire mod cons - Headlight stays on when key is turned on, which obviously takes power away from starting.

What I did was splice in a good quality mini toggle switch between the ground headlight wire inside the headlight cover, drilled a small hole in the lower head light cover to run the mini toggle switch through. The switch can then be off for starting, then easily turned on when warmed up and ready to ride. Very inexpensive easy fix to get full power for starting, after doing the Mod.
Can you explain this with wire colors and step by step instructions I did the blue wire mod and would like to install a switch?

Sent from my SM-J700T1 using Tapatalk
 

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The ground wires on this bike are black w/yellow stripe. Ground switching is the best way to go when it's possible, no chance of it shorting out. My voltmeter is switched on the ground side.

If you get the AGM battery, the headlight staying on should be no problem.
 

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Hi Guys (and Gals) 👋 I’m in England and have just joined. I’ve recently replaced my stator and rectifier and suddenly have the dreaded “Headlight not working” scenario. I think a mod was done to the bike before I got it (late last year) as the headlight used to come on with the ignition switch. I can’t see the “blue wire mod” at the fuse box end though and the connector where one would expect the power to come onward from the fuse is empty, so where does it go and is it really protecting the headlight circuit????☹
My question is - is the headlight relay replaceable? And if so how? As this seems to me to be the obvious solution...
I’m no electrician, so please excuse me if the answer is staring me in the face!
Safe journeys all
Ade
 

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Hi Ade,

After the standard blue wire mod, the headlight fuse will be unused, and the taillight fuse will provide power to the headlight.
Replacing the headlight relay requires desoldering the old component and soldering a new one back onto the circuit board. It is not a horrible procedure if you're comfortable soldering, if you can find the right component to buy.

Regarding the rest of your problems, I suggest starting a new thread specific to resolving the problems on your bike since it sounds like there's going to be a lot of investigation involved and we should try to keep the post count low on this "how-to" thread to keep things clear for future readers of the blue wire mod.
 

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What is the “reserve” lighting unit for?
And how do I check it’s working please?
As still baffled as to why I have power going to the blue wire from the headlight fuse, but no power at the light... 🤔
Cheers
 

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What is the “reserve” lighting unit for?
And how do I check it’s working please?
As still baffled as to why I have power going to the blue wire from the headlight fuse, but no power at the light... 🤔
Cheers
The reserve lighting unit will automatically switch from low beam to high beam if it detects a filament failure. Without you having to toggle the headlight switch. If there is any intention on going to an LED headlight, it could cause flickering because the LED bulbs do not consume as much power as the stock incandescent bulbs. It can be bypassed very simply by using a jumper across 2 pins on the connector. That mod can be easily found on here (with pics) by running a search on “RLU bypass”
 
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