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Discussion Starter #1
I have read the verses but still have questions. I'm a newbie.

Bought bike Saturday, had friend drive it to my home. Sunday it had trouble starting but did start. It was trying to turn over and eventually started. It's a learning bike for me. I was trying to move it and I stalled it by not letting the clutch out slowly enough. My fault. After that I couldn't get it started again. It tried to start but I could tell it was getting weaker. Now it doesn't even try anymore. The dash lights don't even come on anymore. I'm pretty sure I killed the battery.

Went and got a charger and charged it overnight (12 hrs) and this morning the dash lights still don't come on. Reading the verses makes it sound like I probably need to look into doing a few things and I have questions:

1.) Should I try to jump start it? I could do so using a portable jumper box or use a non-running car.

2.) To access the battery, is there a good guide somewhere with pictures? I know I have to remove the seat.

3.) Replace the battery (the seller says this battery was purchased last summer). I see one at Advanced Auto Parts - won't let me link it up but it's an AutoCraft brand battery 14L-A2 - is this ok?

4.) Read that Westco or Yuasa sealed maintenance-free battery is the way to go. But where can I find one? I'm anxious to get the bike started and would hate to do a mail-order thing and wait. But will if I should.

5.) Also read that it's good to check/replace the main fuse in case it's a blown fuse deal. I don't think it's that in this case. I think I just wore the battery down.

Thank you for any advice! Pretty sure it's a battery issue just gotta figure out what to do next and how.

>:)
 

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That's a wet cell battery, and is probably now 100% dead from discharging. It's a crap battery anyhow, so not a huge loss. The Yuasa is the best, but I run an Autocraft Powersport AGM (Advanced Glass Mat) battery which the PO installed in mine, and it has served me very well for the last year.

Go for the Yuasa battery if you can find it, but any AGM battery would be better than the wet cell style you have in there now.

Also, battery access is very easy. Take a 10mm socket with an extension and remove the bolts inside the small compartment behind the passenger backrest. After you lift the seat off, you'll be looking directly at the battery. That same 10mm socket will remove the battery hold down bolt and the terminal bolts so you can remove and replace the battery.

Hope that helps some!
 

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I see now you were mentioning that you saw that 14L-A2 battery at AAP, not that it was in your bike. What battery is currently in your bike?
 

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Not to get all paranoid on you, but when you replace the battery, have a voltmeter handy and see if the bike's charging system is operational. Lots of good troubleshooting info elsewhere in the forum, so I won't rehash it here. If you bought the bike in a private sale, the previous owner *should* have a list of the mods s/he made to the bike, and you'll *definitely* need those before doing much more than basic troubleshooting. It's rare to encounter a VN750 in bone-stock condition -- not impossible, but rare. As many electrical technicians have muttered under their breath, "What manner of creature made a nest in this wiring?". Best you know up-front if possible.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I see now you were mentioning that you saw that 14L-A2 battery at AAP, not that it was in your bike. What battery is currently in your bike?
Thanks. Are there any good places to find a Yuasa battery like an Autozone type of place or is it mostly online or specialty shops? I do not know what is currently in the bike. I am very un-technical. But I will need to take a look and see. Thank you.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Not to get all paranoid on you, but when you replace the battery, have a voltmeter handy and see if the bike's charging system is operational. Lots of good troubleshooting info elsewhere in the forum, so I won't rehash it here. If you bought the bike in a private sale, the previous owner *should* have a list of the mods s/he made to the bike, and you'll *definitely* need those before doing much more than basic troubleshooting. It's rare to encounter a VN750 in bone-stock condition -- not impossible, but rare. As many electrical technicians have muttered under their breath, "What manner of creature made a nest in this wiring?". Best you know up-front if possible.
Thanks. I do not have a volt-meter or know how to use one. For that I might need some help from a friend if I can find one. This is all very helpful though. Right now my plan is to go to buy that battery I found at Advanced Auto Parts - the battery that isn't the best option but it's the only one I can physically locate. If I can find a better battery I want to get the better option.
 

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Don't buy a wet-cell though! Advance Auto has AGM batteries which are fine. I use one in mine and it hadn't failed me once in the year+ I've had my bike. Get the AGM!

something like this battery
 

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To have a vn750 you either need money or ability. Never own something you can't work on. Since these bikes are electrically demon controlled, not being able to use a voltmeter is like being at the foot of the tallest mountain you can find. Yes you can learn, and you have to. With this bike it isn't an option. Hopefully you will get better with it as you go. It will certainly be a learning experience. :)

Now, as far as your lights go.... you should be able to turn them on regardless of a discharged cell if you tried to charge it.

(A) you didnt charge it, thought you did.

(B) your bike is in first gear and the neutral light nor headlight will be on. The start kill is keeping you from starting it.
 
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Went and got a charger and charged it overnight (12 hrs) and this morning the dash lights still don't come on.
(...)
2.) To access the battery, is there a good guide somewhere with pictures? I know I have to remove the seat.
Gotta ask the question... The above statements imply you didn't remove the seat to attach the charger, so how *did* you? :)

Eventually, most people will get a battery charger with a detachable pigtail that, once installed, is accessible to hook up the charger without removing the seat. The "Battery Tender" is a common brand example of what I'm talking about: it has both the detachable pigtail and a set of clips (so the charger can be used on other batteries when it's not attached to the pigtail). You can even purchase extra pigtails to install on your other bikes :). And don't tell us you're gonna stop at one: they're like Lay's Potato Chips -- no one can eat just one. Actually, in your neck of the woods, that would be Wise Potato Chips.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Don't buy a wet-cell though! Advance Auto has AGM batteries which are fine. I use one in mine and it hadn't failed me once in the year+ I've had my bike. Get the AGM!

something like this battery
So helpful! Will this fit a 750 though? 2006.

The only one listed on Advanced Auto website that says it fits the vehicle is this one:


 

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Discussion Starter #11
Gotta ask the question... The above statements imply you didn't remove the seat to attach the charger, so how *did* you? :)

Eventually, most people will get a battery charger with a detachable pigtail that, once installed, is accessible to hook up the harger without removing the seat. The "Battery Tender" is a common brand example of what I'm talking about: it has both the detachable pigtail and a set of clips (so the charger can be used on other batteries when it's not attached to the pigtail). You can even purchase extra pigtails to install on your other bikes :). And don't tell us you're gonna stop at one: they're like Lay's Potato Chips -- no one can eat just one. Actually, in your neck of the woods, that would be Wise Potato Chips.
Yeah I'm gonna have to learn a lot it looks like.

I did not remove the seat yet. Gotta get the tools for that tonight. The bike has a battery tender so I hooked up the charger to that. The charger blinks when it is trickle charging so seemed like it was doing what it was supposed to. Made sure the hookup was well connected to the tender.

We have Lays and Wise!

So when I put the key in this morning and turned to the on position usually the dash lights would come on but they didn't. When I get home tonight I hope to take a closer look.

Would attempting a jump start from a jump starter box be a good move? Or trying to jump from a non-running car? Currently the only options I can think of that I can do on my own are to jump start or to get a new battery and try to replace the old battery with the new.
 

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Would attempting a jump start from a jump starter box be a good move? Or trying to jump from a non-running car?
I've actually gotten away with jump-starting my '06 with a running car, but *only* with the car engine idling (to keep the car's alternator from producing enough current to fry the bike's electrical system). Non-running car is safer! Not sure what *you* mean by a "jump starter box", but as long as it's not a battery charger with a high-amperage "engine start" setting, I think you would be ok.

Thanks for the clarification about having the battery tender hookup. Another question you can answer when you remove the seat: is that tender hookup actually attached to the battery? Seems like a stupid thing to ask, but I've seen where people forget to reattach one or both of the leads when replacing the battery, which would explain why your overnight charge didn't accomplish anything :-(.
 

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That's a "wet" lead acid battery. Avoid it. Here's a link to the recommended sealed (AGM) batteries:

http://www.vn750.com/forum/19-electrical/270-sealed-batteries-vn750.html#post1383

In 2017, the Yuasa appears to be selling on-line for around $76 w/free shipping. Most sellers have it for right around $80. Don't get sucked in by the eBay and/or Amazon ads for Yuasa "replacement" batteries: the batteries being offered are generally off-brand replacements for the Yuasa you had in mind.
 

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Is there a motorcycle shop anywhere near you? Many times you can find an AGM battery there. I bought an AGM battery for my Triumph Bonneville at a Polaris/Suzuki/Honda dealer.

Many motorcycle batteries are used in other models and by other bike makers.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
All this info is great. Here is update:

Discovered that the battery charger I was sold was actually just a battery maintainer, which could explain why battery did not charge up.

Successfully jump started bike. But all the lights were flickering and the rpms were going up and down in neutral. Let it run a good 15 minutes. When tried to move it it just died and stayed dead no lights on dash.

Was able to get battery out of bike (it's a Yuasa battery purchased last summer). Took battery to Advanced Auto to be tested. They're charging it overnight and I will come back later tonight to see if it takes a charge.

If battery is good then I will return the battery maintainer and purchase a battery charger. If battery is no good they have an AGM battery there I can buy so I don't have to get the crappy one you pour acid into. Hopefully it's just a battery issue and not something more complex like a bad charging system or an alternator or something.

Hopefully this all makes sense.
 

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Successfully jump started bike. But all the lights were flickering and the rpms were going up and down in neutral. Let it run a good 15 minutes. When tried to move it it just died and stayed dead no lights on dash.

Was able to get battery out of bike (it's a Yuasa battery purchased last summer).
Not looking too good as far as the charging system, although there's at least a glimmer of hope there: you got the engine to run for 15 minutes, which would have been difficult to accomplish if the charging system were completely kaput and the battery badly discharged. If the voltage across the battery drops below 9 or so, there's not enough to run the ignition system. Engine will start running really rough *well* before you get to that point. You didn't mention whether you tried to speed up the engine above idle, but I'd bet that didn't go well if you did: ignition system load increases with RPM.

You didn't mention the Yuasa part number of the battery you removed for testing, but in general, AGM batteries don't tolerate discharge to exhaustion real well... Might get away with it a time or two without killing it, but the life of the battery will definitely be shortened. If it's one of the Yuasa OEM-style "wet" batteries, it would be interesting to know what the level of the acid was in the battery.

If the battery test comes back "good", it's time to read up on charging system troubleshooting.
 

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Welcome aboard!
Sorry I'm late to the party, but here's my two cents:

It seems unlikely to me that a battery would be able to start the bike once, then be completely unable to be recharged, to the point of not being able to light up the dash. It might not be in perfect condition, but should take SOME charge, even if it's been ruined by this most recent complete drain.

A battery charger/maintainer will sometimes blink when in a diagnostic mode (determining if charging is possible), and have a solid light when actually charging the battery. It's possible that the maintainer didn't dump any power into the battery. Good move on taking it to the shop to be tested. The vn750 needs a strong battery for the starter motor.

Make sure that any AGM battery you get hasn't been sitting on the shelf for years because they can be substantially weakened. You can get AGM batteries where the acid has not yet been added, but comes in the box, ensuring that you have a totally fresh battery. Requires a longer initial charging time than a pre-filled one, but you get a longer life-span.

The flickering lights after jumping the bike sounds like a loose wire somewhere. It's possible the battery leads were just loose, but that would cause poor starting, might cause the bike to idle poorly, and flickering lights.

The vn750 has an 'interlock' system or 'idiot lockout' that prevents you from starting the engine or riding off in an unsafe condition. I.e. your bike won't start unless you are in neutral or have the clutch lever pulled AND if your side-stand is down and you release your clutch while in gear, your engine will shut off. This can sometimes lead new riders to think they let out the clutch too fast and killed the engine, when actually the bike cut electricity to the spark plugs to prevent you from killing yourself when you turn left with the kickstand down. If you have a clutch lever switch or kickstand switch that is faulty your bike will sometimes "save" you when it shouldn't. That wouldn't affect your dash lights though, so your battery is definitely a factor in the big picture, but it's something to be aware of as you're just learning to get on the road.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Thanks for the response. This is all helpful. Tried to rev engine while in neutral and it was very rough so I didn't do too much of that.

When I took it to be tested the reading came back as 108 CCA. The guy there said it should be 250 CCA or something like that.

If the battery is good, could it be that I just killed the battery and it's possible to charge it up and I don't need a new one? Does it automatically mean that the charging system needs to be fixed/replaced? And what does that typical run $$ ?

If the battery is bad then I will replace it and that is hopefully the end of the issue. Calling the store shortly to find out the status.
 
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