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Hello Vulcan guru's....I was riding my bike the other day, 15 minutes into the ride doing about 55 mph's my bike just stalls out. I was able to start the bike right up while coasting with no problems. I went another 200 yards of so and bike was responding to throttle with hesitation and then stalled out again. This time it did not start right back up and I had to pull over. Tried several times to start it, all lights were on and back would turn over but would not start. After 5 minutes or so the bike finally turned over. I immediately turned around and headed home and I had no problems at all the ride home. Took a ride the other night, 35 minute ride or so with no problems. Brother-in-law thinks it might be a loose wire or something. Any help sent my way would be appreciated.
 

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Sounds like the phantom out of gas syndrome. Could be a clogged fuel cap vent. Could have been a fluke but we've had several people experience this over the years so there's probably something to it. Sometimes opening the fuel cap and letting it vent will get it back to normal, but that doesn't always work either. The most common fix is to clean out the vent line under the fuel cap, if it in fact is clogged...

Loose battery terminals or grounds can do the same thing, but you will lose electrical power when it dies, so if your lights stayed on I'm leaning toward a clogged fuel cap vent.
 

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POGS or dirty carbs or... the nasty ol hose to the right ear!... first check to make sure that vent tube from the tank is clear POGS--phantom Out Of Gas Syndrum( clean it from the gas cap vent hole.. great write ups on this )...make sure the hose going to the right ear is not botteming out or not connected to the ear.. lastly.. run sea foam for a while and then if need be clean those carbs.
 

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Some people have had to clean the ignition switch to clear this up.
That's why these group discussions are so valuable. I had forgotten about that. Do they usually lose all power when the ignition switch acts up, or just the engine dies?
 

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It might be POOGS, but there is not enough information in the original post to determine it for sure. So, if the bike stalls when the gas tank is at 1/2 or less, then it sure might be POOGS and it will not go away until the gas cap vent and vent line have been cleaned and are venting the gas tank properly. POOGS is nothing more than a failed gas tank venting system; either clogged or failed check valves within the gas cap. The process or cleaning them only takes 15 minutes and a yearly spray of carb cleaner down the vent tube should keep it from happening ever again. Below is my writeup on how I solved my POOGS problem. I wish we could get this added to the Verses, along with the steps for cleaning a CA model gas cap vent.

I just went through this on my ’06 (non-CA model), exact same situation too (stall at ½ tank gas). Try this (again '06 non-CA model, other models and CA emissions may differ):

Step 1: Clean the gas cap vent tube:

1. Place a piece of paper in front of the REAR tire
2. Open the gas cap
3. Spray carb cleaner into the vent tube located on the tank, near the base of the gas cap hinge. Use the straw attachment for the spray can.
4. Observe the drips onto the piece of paper. Continue spraying until it runs clear.
5. See UPDATE 5/5/2010 below for root cause of this particular POOGS​

Step 2: Clean the gas cap vent mechanism

1. Open the gas cap and remove the key.
2. Cover the tank inlet tube with a rag, tape or a piece of paper to prevent dropping parts in the tank. I used a large PostIt note, which worked well.
3. Remove the two brass screws that hold the latch mechanism on the bottom of the gas cap.
4. Remove the latch mechanism. Note: there is a loose component in the base that covers the latch spring. Be careful not to drop it into the tank or on the floor during removal.
5. Inspect the latch, clean as necessary (chances are this is NOT where the problem is), then set aside.
6. Careful not to loose the 5 small springs mounted on posts under the latch mechanism. You can leave them where they are or remove them for safe keeping.
7. Before proceeding remove the small collar from the male latch connector (look for the round key cylinder). The collar acts like a bearing when opening and closing the latch using the key. It is loose and easily lost. Slip it off and put it aside for safe keeping.
8. Remove the two short screws at the base of the gas cap vent, but DO NOT yank the vent off yet.
9. The vent gasket is glued to the cap (at least it was on mine) and the vent assembly might be stuck to the gasket. GENTLY, wiggle the vent back and forth to loosen it and prevent damage to the gasket.
10. With the vent assembly removed, inspect the gasket for tears or bulges. You should see the outline of the venting path depressed into the gasket (this is normal). Spray with carb cleaner (just a little) and gently wipe with a clean cloth. Inspect the cloth for signs of debris.
11. Now for the root of the problem; Remove the small round plastic check valve/liquid separator located on the underside of the vent assembly. GENTLY ply it out (needle nose pliers works well), careful not to damage the silicone valve covering the base of the check valve. Remove the gasket as well and place it aside. Inspect and clean the check valve, ESPECIALLY the tiny 90 degree elbow which leads to the vent hole. NOTE: there is another silicone valve cover permanently mounted in the gas cap vent itself (part of the pressure release part of the valve). DO NOT attempt to remove it or you will damage it. Just make sure it is clean and functioning.
12. Now check the vent hole. This is where you are most likely to find the problem.
13. Hold the vent assembly up to the light and look up from where the plastic check valve was mounted. See any light where that tiny 90 degree elbow fits? Follow the vent channels on the opposite side of the vent assembly. Any blockage?
14. Unplug the holes and clean the venting channels.
15. Reassemble.​

Step 3: Repeat Step 1 frequently (at least once a year) to prevent this from happening again. AND/OR relocate the vent line as outlined in the UPDATE below.

UPDATE 5/5/2010: My Phantom has been uncloaked! I took a closer look at where/how the rubber vent tube exits in front of the rear tire. I found that the tube had been (and still is) rubbing against the rear tire. The 'black fluffy carbon' blocking my vent was probably rubber shavings caused by the vent tube rubbing against the tire. I've temporarily rerouted the vent tube to exit along side the coolant overflow tube to eliminate the vent tube/tire rubbing. I still plan to flush the vent once a year to reduce the possibility of dirt and dust reaching and blocking the actual gas cap vent.
 

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That's why these group discussions are so valuable. I had forgotten about that. Do they usually lose all power when the ignition switch acts up, or just the engine dies?
I am not sure what all fail, but wiggling the ignition key can some times make the engine get back on line.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
cglennon, I saw your post on another members question. I saw your method on cleaning the fuel cap. I followed the directions to the t. Did not really see any dirt or grime come out nor was the filter in the cap particulary dirty. The only thing I noticed that was different is the vent hose did not go straight down but came out by the right ear. I went ahead and redirected the hose so that it now goes straight down by the rear tire. The tank was also not completely at the half tank level but very close to it.
 

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cglennon, I saw your post on another members question. I saw your method on cleaning the fuel cap. I followed the directions to the t. Did not really see any dirt or grime come out nor was the filter in the cap particulary dirty. The only thing I noticed that was different is the vent hose did not go straight down but came out by the right ear. I went ahead and redirected the hose so that it now goes straight down by the rear tire. The tank was also not completely at the half tank level but very close to it.
Sounds like your problem is probably not POOGS. POOGS is somewhat consistent; bike is running great, 1/2 tank of gas or less, ride for a few miles, bike stalls, open gas cap and wait a few minutes, bike start with no problem, close the gas cap, ride for a few miles and the bike stalls again. Another way to verify POOGS is to ride with the gas cap open, which bypasses the gas cap venting system (i.e., no stalling). However, this method of testing is dangerous.
 

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cglennon, I saw your post on another members question. I saw your method on cleaning the fuel cap. I followed the directions to the t. Did not really see any dirt or grime come out nor was the filter in the cap particulary dirty. The only thing I noticed that was different is the vent hose did not go straight down but came out by the right ear. I went ahead and redirected the hose so that it now goes straight down by the rear tire. The tank was also not completely at the half tank level but very close to it.
Wait!.. What?.. it came out by the right ear?.. that shouldnt be the tanks vent hose.. that should be the one coming from the T connector between the carbs.. the vent hose fromt he tank is smaller and shouldnt reach to the right ear... if the hose that is next to the right ear is free and not int the right ear cut it at a 45 degree angel and stick it back in the right ear hole by the rear of the right ear.. the one to the tank.. and you might have 2 of them.. goes to the back of the bike and is only about 1 foot long.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I got the right hose, I traced it. The hose that goes from the carb to the ear is there and is connected.
 

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I got the right hose, I traced it. The hose that goes from the carb to the ear is there and is connected.
If it is bottomed out it will cause problems ,hence the 45 degree cut on the end.
 
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