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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Bike stalls always after 10 minutes, at idle or riding. Ordered an ignition coil, was not that. Thought maybe vent tube, or air flow issue, so took off air cleaner, and left gas cap open, as someone suggested that, ran it in the driveway, still stalled. Emptied gas tank, as it was sitting for 6 months. Added oil. Called a mechanic, he suggested trying here, as fixing something like this would be very expensive. arrgh, any suggestions would be appreciated
 

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Does it seem like a heat thing, or like a fuel thing? Like, if you let it sit for one minute does it start back up and run for another 10 minutes before dying, or does it need to sit for half an hour before it'll start again?
 

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Sounds like a heat thing, maybe in the IC Ignitor, but that might be hard to pin down depending on how long the wait is required before it will restart.

When it dies, are the dash lights on? A no, could point to a switch problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
It takes 20 minutes before it will start again, it cranks and the dash lights are on. Have no idea what it could be. Added some coolant this morning, still stalled after ten minutes.
 

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Could be a bad solder joint in the IC Ignitor, a crack that opens up once it's warmed up. These are sometimes fixed by baking the unit in an oven,

You could try testing the IC Ignitor quickly, as soon as the engine dies. Test is in the manual, free download in my signature. If it fails, but tests good when cold, you'll know what to do.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Could be a bad solder joint in the IC Ignitor, a crack that opens up once it's warmed up. These are sometimes fixed by baking the unit in an oven,

You could try testing the IC Ignitor quickly, as soon as the engine dies. Test is in the manual, free download in my signature. If it fails, but tests good when cold, you'll know what to do.
Hmmm did not know about this, saw some on amazon, will order one, its worth the 30 dollars to try it out. It says that a bad one could cause engine stalls
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Hmmm did not know about this, saw some on amazon, will order one, its worth the 30 dollars to try it out. It says that a bad one could cause engine stalls
Hmmm did not know about this, saw some on amazon, will order one, its worth the 30 dollars to try it out. It says that a bad one could cause engine stalls
these
Could not open up the link you sent, I discovered Kawasaki no longer makes these ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Does it seem like a heat thing, or like a fuel thing? Like, if you let it sit for one minute does it start back up and run for another 10 minutes before dying, or does it need to sit for half an hour before it'll start again?
Needs half hour before it will start, at a loss to diagnose it
 

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It does sound like a CDI issue. You could get a bit more info by pulling a spark plug and seeing if you get spark while cranking. That would pretty definitively limit it to electrical or fuel/air.
 

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The channels on the igniter module are fairly independent. Usually if it fails on an otherwise well running bike, it would be on a single jug. Most of the ignition is like that. Common to both cylinders is the petcock. Next time it dies, don't crank it, and crack open the carb drain screws. How much fuel comes out ? Check for good fuel flow, and a downhill run to each carb from the petcock. Just something else to check.
edit - P.S. hard hot starts can be indication of weak pickup coil signal. Do a little research on the pickup coil mod for our rides.
 

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ZCraggRatt also speaks the truth. You've got to narrow down this problem in half by determining if it's fuel or electrical, either by checking for lack spark or checking the float bowls for lack of fuel, then go from there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
It does sound like a CDI issue. You could get a bit more info by pulling a spark plug and seeing if you get spark while cranking. That would pretty definitively limit it to electrical or fuel/air.
Based on the replies here, and some research, would say cdi. To my surprise, after looking everywhere on many sites, and locally, cant even find a used one, did find one new one at 700 plus tax, and cant return it if I am wrong. Might as well get a new bike
 

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Based on the replies here, and some research, would say cdi. To my surprise, after looking everywhere on many sites, and locally, cant even find a used one, did find one new one at 700 plus tax, and cant return it if I am wrong. Might as well get a new bike
Look for a post by Jason Pittenger, he found an aftermarket CDI pretty cheap and has done a lot of testing with it. Working well for him.

Here it is:


Aftermarket CDI ...

 

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There's some used ones on eBay also.

Here's a new one for $70 .....

 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
There's some used ones on eBay also.

Here's a new one for $70 .....

Thanks for trying, but I have an 800 kawasaki, they go for ten times that brand new.
 

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Thanks for trying, but I have an 800 kawasaki, they go for ten times that brand new.
Yep, right there in your name too. Ignitech might have something to fit?

Ebay does have some used ones but they start at $200..
 

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Thanks for trying, but I have an 800 kawasaki, they go for ten times that brand new.
The Ignitech should work as well. They're around $200 as well. Send the guys an email and they'll do a custom wiring harness for your bike. Might even program it specific to your bike. If not, I can help you though setting it up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I ordered a use cdi box on Ebay $ 400.00, tried it, same issue, stalls after 10 minutes. Have to wait till it cools down before it will start again. Mechanics wont touch it, saying it could be anything ? Which also means could cost more than the bike to fix it once and if they figure it out. Even went on community groups on facebook looking for anyone who works on bikes, nothing. Its a shame, but I may have to scrap the bike.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
ZCraggRatt also speaks the truth. You've got to narrow down this problem in half by determining if it's fuel or electrical, either by checking for lack spark or checking the float bowls for lack of fuel, then go from there.
How to I check if its getting enough fuel ? Why would it run fine for then just die ?
 
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