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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Second time in 2 months, but my bike died on me again. This time while I was riding. I was using it all day at highway speeds mostly, and when I was on my way home it died at a stop light 2 miles from my home coming back from selling my other bike. Just replaced the battery a couple months ago. Bike just hit 12,000 miles and allegedly already had the stator replaced. I'm gonna check voltage at the battery terminals when I get home, but for now I need to jump it or something to get it home.

How do I test the stator? And is there anything I should check first?
 

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FREEBIRDS MC CENTRAL NY
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Look at the stickies here in the electrical section and read the Vulcan verses
 

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Just as a quick check, measure the voltage on the battery when off, at idle, then 3K rpm see what you get. If the voltage is not higher at 3K rpm, you've got a problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
I've sprayed contact cleaner into the ignition switch. The first symptom was the headlight turned off while riding, then loss of power, then it died idling at a stop light. Wouldn't turn back on until 30 minutes later and the headlight still wouldn't come on. Gotta charge it to get it started again. Been busy thought lately because my house was just robbed later that night. It's been a **** fest.

Can anyone link me to the best replacement stator and R/R? I guess that's my next move.
 

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Can anyone link me to the best replacement stator and R/R? I guess that's my next move.
Both of these are considered the best bet.

Tim Parrot (for stator rewind)
Rebuild Services by Tim Parrott - Rebuilder**of stators , field rotors, starters , New Regulators

MOSFET r/r kit:

Universal FH020AA Kit with Maxifuse or 30 amp Circuit breaker.

(scroll down) >>---> Home

There's an r/r kit on ebay too.
Shindengen MOSFET FH020AA Regulator Rectifier Kit Replaces FH012AA | eBay

Easy MOSFET Wiring - http://roadstercycle.com/Easy Mosfet Install.htm
 

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Discussion Starter #7
What's everyone's thoughts on Caltric? Anyone have any experience with this combo from Amazon?

Caltric STATOR & REGULATOR RECTIFIER Fits KAWASAKI VN750 VULCAN 750 1986-2006 MOTORCYCLE https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009YXF5A4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_KOzBwb76N50HZ

Literally first result and seems most convenient. Price is manageable if the product is quality. But I hope it's not too good to be true and fails quickly.

I just want it to work for another 6 months at most then sell the bike.
 

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Not even for a week, unless changing stators is more fun than I remember.

 

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1986 VN750
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Please don't buy a crappy stator and then sell the bike. That's not nice!
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Not even for a week, unless changing stators is more fun than I remember.

You mean the stator won't last a week, or what do you mean...?
 

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I just want it to work for another 6 months at most then sell the bike.
That's what I was referring to. I found some decent reviews when I checked earlier, but you still see plenty of bad ones. Same as when I checked three years ago.

A few members here have reported trouble with those and Rick's, also Electrosport, though one member here did have good luck so far with either the Caltric or Electrosport they used.

TPE has been the number one choice here on this forum, but one member had trouble with one of those a few years back, then he did the external alternator.
 

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Know-It-All White-Trash
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first answer you need is: Where's the source of the power drain?

Maybe the fan ($50) needs a new sensor. but find your drain.
 

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Quick question? Do you have a lithium ion battery in your bike? If so they have a thermal cutout at 13 volts DC. When the battery voltage drops to 13v, the battery turns off, and your bike dies, may wait a few minutes and get a little juice but not enough to get started,. It can only be started by jumping and getting the voltage back up and the batteries turn back on. Sounds like you have and alternator problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
first answer you need is: Where's the source of the power drain?

Maybe the fan ($50) needs a new sensor. but find your drain.
Where would the common faults be and how do I find them?

Quick question? Do you have a lithium ion battery in your bike? If so they have a thermal cutout at 13 volts DC. Sounds like you have and alternator problem.
I have a cheap Walmart branded "Everstart" wet cell battery. Just replaced it in September.

TPE has been the number one choice here on this forum, but one member had trouble with one of those a few years back, then he did the external alternator.
Not interested in installing an external alternator. That's a pretty heavy mod that'll affect resale value.
 

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Sparky!!!
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you symptoms sound exactly like a faulty ignition switch. HERE is a guide on rebuilding it... New members are greatly encouraged to read through the vulcan verses, 90% of every thing you need to know about the VN750 are covered there.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I've been riding it for the past week or so by leaving it on the charger over night. Checked the voltage between terminals, and it's a constant 12.5 or so and doesn't fluctuate when rev'd to 3000rpm or more. Headlight also hardly ever works. One day it did work though, which surprised me. Still sound like ignition switch? And am I causing any further damage by riding it like I am?
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Nobody ever really got back to me on this issue. The bike's still been my only mode of transportation, and issues never been resolved. for over 6 months now, I've only been able to travel 30miles inbetween charges at most. And that distance seems to be growing shorter everyday.

I'll kick myself in the pants for as long as I own this heap for having ever purchased it on a loan. It's been quite a negative impact on my life, on top of losing my job(hence I can't afford to waste money on another bad choice with making repairs), since I can't go the distance
to find a new job. I really never should've bought this bike having already known of all the common issues, but I had faith that not every serial number through this 20+ year line of model was complete garbage and felt comfortable buying from an openly Christian previous owner.

I can't sell the P.O.S. for anything considering the condition, so I'm stuck with it. And I wrecked it a few months ago because the battery died on road in the middle of the night in a poorly lit neighborhood; destroying the gauge cluster, headlight, turn signals, and further warping the handlebars. After making the repairs, the odometer reads 19k miles more than the bike actually has and I have no means of correcting that. So resale value is practically gone, period. I'd like to run this bike into the ground however long that might take with proper maintenance and upkeep, so that I have no guilt with trading the "gift" of burden off to someone else.

I'd like to install a tuxedo mod and volt meter gauge, but I don't know how to check to see if the mod is already installed. Would I need to replace a gasket and change the oil in doing so? Because I can't afford to leave my engine pryed apart for too long between ordering parts as it's my only transportation, and I can't afford to waste money on a tuxedo mod if it's not necessary.

I can also feel my clutch slipping out of first gear after first starting it up, which is odd because the bike only has about 14,000 miles on it. So I don't know if that's actually just the clutch or sign of final drive gear having not been lubed and starting to fail.

The whole point of bringing back this thread is to see if I can get a straight answer from anyone who's been through this before on where I can get the best drop-in replacement stator for longetivity, and replacement clutch kit, all gaskets and seals involved in the job, and an aftermaket odometer and voltmeter. As well as is there any new found information of preventable measures to avoid ever having any of this happen again? Any mods to increase oil flow to that part of the crankcase?
 

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If you can test your stator ac output and find out if it's good or bad. If it's good you might only need a $25 regulator. There's a thread here to check that. Too bad you're not closer to Pa or I'd help.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
If you can test your stator ac output and find out if it's good or bad. If it's good you might only need a $25 regulator. There's a thread here to check that. Too bad you're not closer to Pa or I'd help.
I just replaced the R/R with a brand new Caltric back in December. I'll try to test the stator again, but I'm a little confused on the process even after reading the stickied thread.

Voltage across the terminals is around 13, though, after a charging and slowly declines after use. No fluctuation in any RPM band
 

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Sounds like you're stator simply isn't charging your battery. With no headlight, it can run awhile after charging it at home.

Easy test for stator (assuming your R/R is fine)- go ride the bike for 10-12 miles to heat her up. Come home,turn it off, remove the seat. Put your voltmeter leads across the battery terminal. Volts should be 12.5-12.8. Start the bike. Volts should jump to 13.4 or above, and should rise slightly when you open the throttle. If they don't go over 13.4 volts, your not getting your battery charged while riding.
 
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