[flitecontrol]

Haven't heard of it since I've been on the forum. Some folks may not get it right the first time on a rebuild, but from the factory, no.

 

[VulcRider24]

Ok then I'm going to definitely start looking elsewhere. I'll check my stator first off. I'll just search for the stator tests on the forums.

 

[baldy]

If it was your cam chains you would hear the rattling sound but I don't think this is your problem. Sounds like others have said a vaccum or some adjustment issue or even a bad jet. If the needle is seeping it would idle down slow.

 

[fergy]

VulcRider, while it is never a bad idea to know how your stator is doing, I feel like you might be getting off track on the problems you described. Ordinarily, when a bike is slow to return to idle, it is one of two things: The throttle cables binding and not letting the throttle snap back to the bottom position, or a vacuum leak somewhere in the system. Vacuum leaks are a wide variety of possibilities, ranging from vacuum hoses to pin holes in diaphragms inside the carbs. There are vacuum hoses under the tank that should be checked for cracks and leaks, the vacuum hose connected to your petcock from the carbs should be checked, the manifolds (where the carbs mount to the intake) and more.

As far as the tach needle bouncing and the engine being all over the place, that sounds electrical, and the ignition switch or the coil wiring could cause this.

None of what you have described sounds like anything to do with cam chains or ACCT's (cam chain tension adjusters). If the cam chain jumped the bike would not run good, period, if it ran at all. Loose cam chains make rattling noises. Bad ACCT's sound like a ticking noise. I still feel like you have a couple different, non-related issues, by your description.