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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I did the Grambo trick the other day. It seems to have cleared up most of the ticking I was hearing, but not all. I turned the inner screw clockwise and let it snap back numerous times. I also applied torque counterclockwise with my fingers using a small screwdriver numerous times, but was careful to not over do it. The ACCT's seemed nice and free and spun back easily. The ticking is gone from the front cylinder, but not the back. It seems worse when the engine is hot. I did the adjustment on a cold engine.

I was thinking of getting a short piece of 1/8 - 3/16 alum. or brass rod, inserting it into the hole where the ACCT goes, and giving it a few light taps with a pair of pliers or light hammer. Whatever fits in the area. The purpose would be to free up whatever the ACCT pushes on a little more aggressively. But, not knowing exactly what is in there, I thought I'd ask first. I'm just looking to do everything I can before I have to go to MCCT's. Ain't got the $$$ for those yet...

Is there something I can do beyond what I've done to improve this issue?
 

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Sparky!!!
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8,697 Posts
Get a set of TOC MCCT's (Manual Cam Chain Tensioners). they can be found HERE. Also search the forum for making your own MCCT's... I don't recommend going that rout but several people have reported that making their own out of local hardware parts was pretty simple and achieved good results.
 

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Premium Member
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Discussion Starter #3
I was thinking of getting a short piece of 1/8 - 3/16 alum. or brass rod, inserting it into the hole where the ACCT goes, and giving it a few light taps with a pair of pliers or light hammer. Whatever fits in the area. The purpose would be to free up whatever the ACCT pushes on a little more aggressively. But, not knowing exactly what is in there, I thought I'd ask first. I'm just looking to do everything I can before I have to go to MCCT's. Ain't got the $$$ for those yet...
Is there something I can do beyond what I've done to improve this issue?
 

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Calif Rider
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725 Posts
Have you installed new springs at all on the bike, or are they the original when you bought the bike. The springs do go bad sometimes in a very short time. Is this an older bike, if it is the MCCT's maybe the only why to go to get rid of the noise. You do not want to try and tap the mechanism, or levers inside of the engine to try and rid yourself of the noise.
 

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Premium Member
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108 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
When I spun the ACCTs they spun back nice and crisply on both sides. The springs didn't seem fatigued. When I applied the counterclockwise torque to them, I was fairly cautious with how much I applied because I do not know how much you can get away with.
If MCCTs are my only next hope, that may have to wait a while due to $$$. And, if I do get MCCTs, is that almost a guarantee of quieting the noise?
BTW, it's a 2004 with 5500 miles.
 

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When I spun the ACCTs they spun back nice and crisply on both sides. The springs didn't seem fatigued. When I applied the counterclockwise torque to them, I was fairly cautious with how much I applied because I do not know how much you can get away with.
If MCCTs are my only next hope, that may have to wait a while due to $$$. And, if I do get MCCTs, is that almost a guarantee of quieting the noise?
BTW, it's a 2004 with 5500 miles.
I can't imagine you are having an issue with the ACCT's with only 5500 miles. Did you buy the bike new or used? I have seen some people unplug the speedo to keep the mileage down. My 01' has 15k and no cam chain noise.

What kind of oil do you use? Are you sure it is the cam chain that is ticking and not maybe the lifters or something else? Sometimes a lower grade oil can make an engine a bit noisier.
 

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Premium Member
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Discussion Starter #7
I can't imagine you are having an issue with the ACCT's with only 5500 miles. Did you buy the bike new or used? I have seen some people unplug the speedo to keep the mileage down. My 01' has 15k and no cam chain noise.

What kind of oil do you use? Are you sure it is the cam chain that is ticking and not maybe the lifters or something else? Sometimes a lower grade oil can make an engine a bit noisier.
I bought it used with around 5200 miles on it about 2 months ago. The oil had just been changed before I bought it. Don't know what kind was used. I do not know if it's history includes a period of sitting unused. It came from NH, so who knows. I am the third owner. I am assuming the cam chain is the noise since it is such a common issue with these bikes, and the fact that making the adjustment made a noticeable difference lessening the ticking. Could changing to a full synthetic oil make a real difference in this as well as improving other things? If so, is any good synthetic useable?
 

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changing to a full synthetic oil will help some. but changing to the MCCT's will fix the problem guaranteed if it is a Cam Chain Noise.
X2 it is possable the ACCT's are acting up and changing out to MCCT's will be better and narrow down the noise.

This is how you can make the MCCT's pretty cheap.

http://www.vn750.com/forum/showthread.php?t=4912

If the bike sets even with new oil in it it still loses viscosity over time. It is smart to change the oil and any other fluid when buying a used bike no matter if they say it is fresh. Very easy and inexpensive to ensure good lubrication. Then you know what is in it.
 

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HMHO, the main issue with the ACCT's is the spring located ABOVE the ACCT under the chrome bolt. This spring is the spring that applies pressure to the cam chain guide to keep it firmly in place.

see part #92081


The ACCT's job is to keep the guide from backing out when the chain wears and stretches. Think about it people, do you really think that tiny weak spring in the ACCT can provide enough tension to manage the cam chain? the work is done by the spring under the chrome bolt cover! When that weakens, the ACCT can't do it's job.

Here's your solution: Remove the chrome bolt cover, retrieve the spring, stretch the spring out about 3/8" longer to give it more tension OR go buy a new spring. The top of the motor gets hot and if the spring weakens, the ACCT can't do it's job by acting as a stiff rod, not as a tightener.

I lubed my ACCT with grease - that helped a lot - thinking like most people on this site that the ACCT is weak but came to realize there is so much pressure keeping that chain in place that there is no way the ACCT is the only problem with the design.

I stretched my top spring months ago when slight ticking started and it's been sweetly quiet since.

If you do this, please report back the results you achieved.

DT
 

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Premium Member
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641 Posts
Same as what others have said. Only answer I can give is getting the MCCT's. I did the TOC rebuild on my ACCT's and about after 2000 miles, the ticking came right back. So I just forked over the cash for the MCCT's and haven't had a problem since.
 

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Premium Member
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108 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
HMHO, the main issue with the ACCT's is the spring located ABOVE the ACCT under the chrome bolt. This spring is the spring that applies pressure to the cam chain guide to keep it firmly in place.

see part #92081


The ACCT's job is to keep the guide from backing out when the chain wears and stretches. Think about it people, do you really think that tiny weak spring in the ACCT can provide enough tension to manage the cam chain? the work is done by the spring under the chrome bolt cover! When that weakens, the ACCT can't do it's job.

Here's your solution: Remove the chrome bolt cover, retrieve the spring, stretch the spring out about 3/8" longer to give it more tension OR go buy a new spring. The top of the motor gets hot and if the spring weakens, the ACCT can't do it's job by acting as a stiff rod, not as a tightener.

I lubed my ACCT with grease - that helped a lot - thinking like most people on this site that the ACCT is weak but came to realize there is so much pressure keeping that chain in place that there is no way the ACCT is the only problem with the design.

I stretched my top spring months ago when slight ticking started and it's been sweetly quiet since.

If you do this, please report back the results you achieved.

DT
This sounds like such a logical and simple thing to try! Has anyone other than DT tried it?
Also, there are 2 of those springs in the assembly if you view the complete drawing. PN 92081 and PN 92081A. They have different Kaw part numbers and different prices. (92081-1380, 92081-1837) Probably different lengths is my guess. Could the lower spring be part of this problem? Does anyone know if this lower spring is easy to retreive to stretch or replace?
 
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