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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
update: After my EverStart battery died, I got a Yuasa charged it up last night and put it in the bike today, 12.8v after i charged it. At idle it was at 12.1v(using a hand held volt meter since i dont have one wired into the battery or anything on the bike.)

Kind of hard to hold the volt meter on the battery and rev the bike at the same time so i didn't do that, but i turned the bike off after about a minute and the battery was at 12.6v, rode it home(20 minute ride mostly highway) and checked the battery again soon as i turned the bike off, it was at 12.4-ish. After about an hour it was at 12.5-ish and now almost 8 hours later its sitting at 12.65v, so am i correct in assuming my RR is operating just fine and it was just the ****ty walmart battery that was my issue?
 

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Paragraphs would help making that all easier to read.

You bought the wrong battery? Why?

You should check your charging volts...which you can do if you can get the bike started. If you're not getting 13.5 volts or more it won't matter what battery you have....
Could be the R/R or the stator if you're not getting a sufficient charge with the bike running (@ 3,000 rpms or more)
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Paragraphs would help making that all easier to read.

You bought the wrong battery? Why?

You should check your charging volts...which you can do if you can get the bike started. If you're not getting 13.5 volts or more it won't matter what battery you have....
Could be the R/R or the stator if you're not getting a sufficient charge with the bike running (@ 3,000 rpms or more)

I bought that battery because at the time its what i could afford and that was the battery it had in it when i bought it so i thought it was the correct one.

After i get the new battery I'm planning on checking the volts, Like I said the bike really hasn't had ANY use since the stator and RR got replaced since the impeller mech seal went very shortly after, and with how my dad explained how the bike was acting when the stator was going out and when it finally did i doubt its that. And im thinking the same with the RR but i've been wrong before. The bike was running fine all day and when i down shifted pulling into the parking lot and the RMP dropped below 3k is when it died, didn't stutter or anything just dead soon as it dropped to around or below 3k.

Cant check the volts till tomorrow when i get the correct battery, worst case till later this week since i took the battery back to walmart and got a refund since i thought it was just a **** battery and found out it wasn't the correct battery to begin with. Also i noticed when taking it back some of the cells were a dark brown and some where white, which is why im leaning more towards the battery got fried cuz it was to small rather than the RR being shot.
 

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2014 KLR 650!
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If the battery is good and all that has been replaced it's the ignition switch puck under the key. CLEAN IT. You people do not listen to me. Are you not entertained? DO I NOT ENTERTAIN YOU!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
If the battery is good and all that has been replaced it's the ignition switch puck under the key. CLEAN IT. You people do not listen to me. Are you not entertained? DO I NOT ENTERTAIN YOU!
Puck should be good, replaced it year and a half ago and i also packed it with dielectric grease, but when i manage to get the bike home i'll also check that after i get the battery, which no shop around here has so time to order it online :(.....

"Yuasa High Performance Maintenance Free Battery - YTX14AHL-BS" is teh battery im planning on getting, thats the correct one right?
 

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update: After my EverStart battery died, I got a Yuasa charged it up last night and put it in the bike today, 12.8v after i charged it. At idle it was at 12.1v(using a hand held volt meter since i dont have one wired into the battery or anything on the bike.)

Kind of hard to hold the volt meter on the battery and rev the bike at the same time so i didn't do that, but i turned the bike off after about a minute and the battery was at 12.6v, rode it home(20 minute ride mostly highway) and checked the battery again soon as i turned the bike off, it was at 12.4-ish. After about an hour it was at 12.5-ish and now almost 8 hours later its sitting at 12.65v, so am i correct in assuming my RR is operating just fine and it was just the ****ty walmart battery that was my issue?
Your charging system isn't working at all. Should see at least 13-13.5v when the bike is idling.

12.4v on the battery is less than a full charge. Your battery actually rebounds after you turn the engine off, so it's draining the battery when running.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Your charging system isn't working at all. Should see at least 13-13.5v when the bike is idling.

12.4v on the battery is less than a full charge. Your battery actually rebounds after you turn the engine off, so it's draining the battery when running.
I read that the charging system wont do anything at idle, 12.1v at idle is because the bike is running off the battery and the stator isn't doing anything untill 3k+, and i figured if the charging system wasn't working then the battery would be drained dead in just a few minutes. When the stator went thats what i was told the bike was doing, fully charge the battery and 5-10 mins later its completely dead.

But i know you know what you're talking about so if you say its not working its probably not :crying: that stator and RR has like not even 2 months ride time on it... i hope to god its just the RR and not the stator... that was a $700 bill when the stator **** the bed and like i said the one thats in now is brand new..... Time to read up on testing the RR and go from there....
 

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The charging system should have some life at idle, should never be in a discharge condition. 12.1v is full discharge, no charging at all. For a 12.8v reading to change down to 12.1v running, it's discharging by a lot. Charge system may be shorted out somehow.

Work through the tests for the stator and r/r, check all the connections as you go, and look for any bad spots in the visible wiring.

Have read of people riding 20-60 minutes on battery power alone.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
The charging system should have some life at idle, should never be in a discharge condition. 12.1v is full discharge, no charging at all. For a 12.8v reading to change down to 12.1v running, it's discharging by a lot. Charge system may be shorted out somehow.

Work through the tests for the stator and r/r, check all the connections as you go, and look for any bad spots in the visible wiring.

Have read of people riding 20-60 minutes on battery power alone.
Ok so i think my stator is fine. with the bike running at 3k rpm, VAC between all legs were 40-50, bike off ohms between all legs were at 0.8(not sure if this is good or bad or what..), bike off neg lead of meter on the case pos lead on all legs didn't change, when i set it to ohms the meter reads 1, that didn't change at all when i went between all the legs with the neg lead on the case. From what i read as long as there is no/very little resistance or the meter reads OL then the stator passes this test, so im assuming mine is fine? I'll be checking the RR here in a bit.
 

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Yes, your stator looks to be fine on all tests.

One problem with the stock r/r and it's location... Wet cell batteries leak acid right down on top of it, and the connectors. So check those connectors really close.

If the r/r happens to fail the test, MOSFET type is a good option, really happy with mine. Mounted it under the left side cover, it was too large to fit in the stock location anyway.

If the r/r passes, it could be a problem with the Junction Box, the JB fails in many ways.
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
Yes, your stator looks to be fine on all tests.

One problem with the stock r/r and it's location... Wet cell batteries leak acid right down on top of it, and the connectors. So check those connectors really close.

If the r/r happens to fail the test, MOSFET type is a good option, really happy with mine. Mounted it under the left side cover, it was too large to fit in the stock location anyway.

If the r/r passes, it could be a problem with the Junction Box, the JB fails in many ways.
Well i think i found part of the issue, it seems the ground wire on the RR shorted out, fried the pin on the RR and melted right off to top things off.... So where should i go from here? Is there any tests with the multimeter that i need to perform on the JB to see if theres an issue there as to why the ground fried like that? I was told the last time the RR went this is the same thing that happened, my dad couldn't remember which wire shorted and melted off but he thinks it was the same one(after that he had the RR and stator replaced, which was back in june.)

And again in total have gotten about 2 or 3 months ride time on the new RR and stator, bike sat a while since the impeller mech seal went and didn't get replaced till i got home a few months ago, I got about 3 or 4 days on it after i fixed that and bought the walmart battery, and now this lol....:crying:

Also, if i get a MOSFET the wire that shorted and the other 2 aren't even used correct? So a MOSFET should just magically solve all of my problems.


 

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FREEBIRDS MC CENTRAL NY
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that'll do it. mine has gone through twp

Sent from my LGL34C using Tapatalk
 

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What color is the melted wire? White? The white wire in that plug position runs to the battery, although it probably goes through the JB to get there. I'm thinking grounds on this one are all black/yellow.

Saw a lot of pics with that same terminal melted while looking for the pin diagram.

MOSFET r/r install does eliminate use of the stock plugs and wiring. I just wrapped mine in tape and tucked it away.

If you really had to, you could probably run that wire straight to the battery. With 30amp fuse would be best. The MOSFET kits come with a 30a maxifuse or circuit breaker to use on the battery wire.
 

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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
What color is the melted wire? White? The white wire in that plug position runs to the battery, although it probably goes through the JB to get there. I'm thinking grounds on this one are all black/yellow.

Saw a lot of pics with that same terminal melted while looking for the pin diagram.

MOSFET r/r install does eliminate use of the stock plugs and wiring. I just wrapped mine in tape and tucked it away.

If you really had to, you could probably run that wire straight to the battery. With 30amp fuse would be best. The MOSFET kits come with a 30a maxifuse or circuit breaker to use on the battery wire.
yea it was the white wire, guess i was looking at my plug backwards to the diagram. and i just realized that the thread i read for testing the RR said the top 3 wires(stator wires im assuming) are A1-3 and the bottom wires are Battery Monitor and Ground, the reason i thought the white was ground is because looking at the plug as its mounted up and pluged in going from left to right top 3 wires are A1-3 and left to right on bottom Black/Yellow, Brown, White. What i thought was B M and G, so am i missunderstanding the write up or what?
 

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No, sounds like you have it.

Always have to look for the clips or notches on the plug, and in the drawing, to get the orientation right. So as you have it in your pics, left to right it's Ground (black/yellow), Monitor (brown), Battery (white). Three yellow wires on the top are the stator wires.

If the r/r is still good, running the white to the battery will be one less circuit in the r/r to fail in the future.

Once I do my fan relay, I'll have bypassed all the relays and the charging circuit from my JB. Have done the headlight and start relay, and the charging.
 

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will add in to check the 3 bullet connectors on the yellow wires, about 1/2 between the R/R connector and the stator. I have seen them deteriorate as well.
 
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