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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
2005 vn 750 new interstate battery bought last year 8 months old and had on tender . Yesterday rode back home from work and stoped to get gas and whould not start , had to roll off, I was tired as it was. Now getting ready to go back to work and driving the truck. All stock , no mods done. Please help. thanks. Cranked up just now after siting for 6 hours but dont trust it. working 12 hour swing shifts so dont have the time to work on right now. mf battery
 

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It could be a lot of things. I would double check all connections, battery terminals, grounds etc. make sure they are tight and clean. If you don't have a voltage meter, you'll need one. Test the battery voltage after its charged. Should be around 12.5 volts. Start the bike and test the voltage at battery, and while revving the bike up to around 4k. Voltage should run up to around 14 volts or better. If it does your charging system seems ok. Battery its self might be a bad one. It has happened, even with an MF. Report back with as much info as you can! good luck!
 

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How old are the plugs, and are they iridium? Lots of folks have said their hot starting problems went away with MF battery and iridiums. Hope you get it sorted out soon.
 

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If you shut off the bike, went into the store and came back out and hit the starter and nothing, battery dead, then this is not really the "hot start" problem you read so much about here. The hot start problem happens when the battery (wet cell) has just enough juice to turn the starter, but not enough to do that and give the plugs a hot enough spark to fire the cyl's. It could be a bad MF battery, but I don't think this is the hot start problem, unless he didn't explain it quite right! :beerchug:
 

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The Reanimater
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2005 vn 750 new interstate battery bought last year 8 months old and had on tender . Yesterday rode back home from work and stoped to get gas and whould not start , had to roll off, I was tired as it was. Now getting ready to go back to work and driving the truck. All stock , no mods done. Please help. thanks. Cranked up just now after siting for 6 hours but dont trust it. working 12 hour swing shifts so dont have the time to work on right now. mf battery
This.......Battery

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Deka-ETX15L-Powersports-AGM-Battery-100-NEW_W0QQitemZ270282472155QQcmdZViewItemQQptZOther_Vehicle_Parts?hash=item3eee173adb&_trksid=p3911.c0.m14&_trkparms=65:12|66:2|39:1|72:1205|240:1318

And these.......Plugs

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/FREE-SHIP-4-ngk-spark-plugs-iridium-DPR7EIX-9-dpr7eix9_W0QQitemZ150348626757QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotorcycles_Parts_Accessories?hash=item230179fb45&_trksid=p3911.c0.m14&_trkparms=65:12|66:2|39:1|72:1205|240:1318

You won't regret it.
 

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I have to go along with Fergy's suggestions in his first post. Get a voltmeter and check out your charging volts and battery volts.

If you simply could not start the bike..(meaning it turned over but never caught) and you then simply wore the battery down till it was dead.. that is one thing. And if you tried to start the bike and the battery was already dead (meaning it would not even turn over) thats another thing.

The only way to know is , after checking all your connections as fergy suggested, you measure the charging volts and the state of charge of the battery fresh off the tender.

Your statement that you - " had to roll off .." if that means you were able to jump start the bike, I would doubt your charging system is the problem and the issue might just be a bad battery. (as you did not say how many attempts you went through trying to start it..just that it would not start)

Or does - " had to roll off.." mean you pushed the dead bike home?


KM
 

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Also, hook up a volt meter, note the reading of the battery when fully charged. should be 12.5 volts , Then, while watching the meter, try and start it. While the starter is enganged, the meter should not drop below 10 volts, if it drops more, the batter is bad.
 

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How old are the plugs, and are they iridium? Lots of folks have said their hot starting problems went away with MF battery and iridiums. Hope you get it sorted out soon.

the iridiums will work NO better than your standard ngk plug. the purpose of the iridium. and platinum as well, is the longevity of the plug. the spark is no different.
 

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the iridiums will work NO better than your standard ngk plug. the purpose of the iridium. and platinum as well, is the longevity of the plug. the spark is no different.


Incorrect.


The tiny size of the electrode on the iridiums actualy produces a hotter spark. And because of the size and longevity of the electode, the spark will stay "hotter" longer than ordinaary plugs.

Granted, a brand new set of regular spark plugs more or less would be equal to a set of iridiums. But after just 2,000 miles the electordes on the regular plug would have deteriorated enough that they could no longer be comparable to the iridium plugs in spark intensity.

This is the reason they are in fact better, and it is solely because of their longevity.


KM
 

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The Professor
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the iridiums will work NO better than your standard ngk plug. the purpose of the iridium. and platinum as well, is the longevity of the plug. the spark is no different.
As KM has said, this statement is INCORRECT!!!

The Iridiums produce a hotter more intense spark for a more complete burn in the combustion chamber.
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
Thanks guys for the quick response. Just got in and seen all of your post. The battery tender is a automatic Schumacher 1.5 amp Trickle from autozone and I had bought a CYTX14AHL-BS CYCLE-TRON II HIGH PERFORMANCE - 210 CCA - 12 AH Battery last 09-28-08. I talked to the guy from interstate and he's going test the battery. And probly going to autozone and pick up a volt meter to mount on the bike. I just dont understand after running the bike after 30 mins and stoping to get gas it made a electric buzz sound but did not try to turn the starter at all , just a soft buzz and then nothing dead.. I opened the gas cap back up nothing. Rolled the bike 20 feet to a step hill and poped 3rd and went home. I tryed starting right after getting home and same soft buzz and then battery dies quickly in secs. But after a while of sitting it cracks up fine without being hooked up to the tender. Thats the part I dont understand..I was thinking it was the RR needing to be relocated but will know alittle more this afternoon after interstate guy tested the battery when I get up. Thanks
 

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I would get in there and pull and clean every connector you can, all the grounds, the connections on the right side under the cover for the solenoid etc, and sand them clean and reattach. Don't forget the power lead on the starter. It gets really dirty and needs to be clean too.
That battery is a 12 AH battery and most of us are running 14 AH glass mat batteries. Don't know how much of a difference that would make, but obviously, 14 is better than 12.
You really need to clean everything up and run the tests we mentioned early in this thread and let us know.
You said it cranks fine when cold. That's interesting too... If your r/r is still over the GB under the battery box, it would be a good idea to re-locate it so it can cool better. The connections on the r/r might be corroded too. Its hard to get to for checking where it is at.
 

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Straight roads are evil
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Could also be a fried stator.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Went up to insterstate today and they told me the battery looked good just needed to be charged . They really could not test it sense it was fully charged. It was at 11.30 amps but they were confident it wasnt the battery but told me to charge the battery over night and come back tomorrow . Made a bracket for the RR out of steel and relocated it beside the back peg.
 

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Could also be a fried starter.

Fixed it for you.

If the battery seems to come back after sitting awhile, that is how a MF should work and I really doubt it is your battery but it could be a short or bad contact in the starter.

Not sure why you would waste time relocating the R/R as I doubt this has anything to do with it either, but the only way to know for sure is for you to check the charging volts as reccomended. This will tell you alot.
I did not understand this statement:
"Went up to insterstate today and they told me the battery looked good just needed to be charged . They really could not test it sense it was fully charged."

They should be able to load test the battey if it is charged.

Until you eliminate the charging system and battery as problems, I am hesitant to begin suggesting other causes.
Making sure all your connections are sound and the ground wire is tight is however a good move.


Went through a simular problem awhile back and it turned out the gas the person bought was bad....so there are quiet a few directions to go , but lacking any more data , start with the basics.

KM
 

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Love My Baby
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If the starter wasn't turning and the battery seems good and the bike did start when you push-started it, sounds like the starter to me. Or the connections to the starter. I'm with KM on this one.
 

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X2 to rubyrick and km on this one. The starter and battery are the place to start.
 
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