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1986 VN750
Joined
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3,255 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
This post will be updated and pictures posted as I complete the work. Any tricks or hints I come up with that will make this stuff easier will be noted as well.

Gaskets and O-Rings required.
Priced at Ron Ayers. I have no affiliation, except an appreciation for good prices.
Code:
[B]PART NUMBER	DESCRIPTION			QTY	UNIT	TOTAL[/B]
11060-1086 	GASKET,GEAR CASE 		1 	$8.53 	$8.53 
11060-1089 	GASKET,GENERATOR COVER 		1 	$12.75 	$12.75
11060-1119 	GASKET,EXHAUST PIPE 		2 	$4.44 	$8.88
92055-109 	"O" RING,DYNAMO COVER 		3 	$1.61 	$4.83
92055-1319 	RING-O 				1 	$8.74 	$8.74
92075-1747 	DAMPER 				4 	$6.11 	$24.45
92075-1748 	DAMPER 				2 	$7.33 	$14.66
[B]		GRAND TOTAL					$82.84[/B]
Balance Damper Installation Overview
1. Remove Engine
2. Remove Stator, Rotor
3. Replace Balance Dampers
4. Reinstall Everything

Remove Engine
1. Place the bike on it's center stand, and disengage the battery.

2. Drain the oil using the drain plug located on the left side of the crankcase. Be careful when pulling out the oil-screen, as there is also a metal washer and spring. Rinse the screen with some fresh oil and remove any bits of damper/clutch shavings/etc. Assemble everything the opposite of dis-assembly.

3. Drain the coolant using the bolt on the bottom-right hand side of the crank case.

4. Remove the coolant bolts at the bottom of each cylinder. They will be on opposite sides.
5. Disconnect the fan's wiring harness on the left hand side of the bike. Disconnect the radiator fan switch lead from the radiator, as well as the other lead on the radiator held on with a phillips headed screw. Move the harness and connectors out of the way.

6. Remove the right-hand side upper-cover (the one with the yellow reflector) to expose the radiator cap.

7. Remove the radiator cap

8. Loosen the upper-radiator-hose clamp on the thermostat. Leave the hose connected temporarily.

9. Loosen the lower-radiator-hose clamp on the radiator.

10. Lean the radiator slightly forward and down, taking care when you disconnect the coolant hoses. Make sure to have something to catch all of the coolant! Ease the bottom coolant hose off if you can first to drain the radiator. I couldn't so the top hose went off first.

11. Carefully remove the radiator and set aside. Do not bend the fins of the radiator.

12. Remove the exhaust. Mine had been de-goated, so the exhaust was only attached to the heads. With a stock exhaust there will be some additional steps, but the steps will be quite apparent.

13. Loosen the clutch cable at the handle bars as much as it allows. Disconnect the clutch cable near the lower left-hand side of the engine.

14. Remove the right-hand side upper-cover (the one with the yellow reflector).

15. Turn your petcock to OFF. Remove the two fuel lines at the petcock side, along with the vacuum hose at the petcock side.

16. Remove the 3 bolts securing the tank, two on the side, one under the seat.

17. Lift the back of the tank and disconnect the electrical connector for the fuel gauge. My tank had a tube connected to a plastic box on the bottom of my tank that was not described in the manuals. Remove this tube. Mine is an 86 and a California model, so I am assuming that is why.

18. Lift the tank off slowly and set it aside, I set a cloth under the petcock in case of any leakage.

19. Remove the wire connecting to the thermostat, and loosen the clamps on the hoses connecting to the thermostat (on the engine side, not thermostat side). Also remove small hose from the radiator cap assembly to the reservoir.


20. Remove the bolt holding the thermostat housing in place, and remove the housing and all associated coolant hoses.

21. Loosen the choke cable as much as possible on the handlebars. Follow the clutch cable to the carbs and you'll see how it is connected. You'll want to sit on the left hand side of the bike with your arm over the bike engaging the choke on the carbs to be able to remove it. Remember how this cable is routed and move it aside.


22. Remove the two carb boots connecting the carbs to the airbox. Loosen the clamps on the carbs and remove them. Then, to remove the boots connecting it to the airbox, use a blunt end of a socket extension, etc, to pry the boots out of the airbox. Be gentle, but once you get the hang of it you'll see how to remove them.

23. Disconnect the vacuum lines from the carburetors

24. Loosen the carb-side of the front clamp on the boot connecting the carbs to the engine block. You will leave the boot on the cylinder head.

25. Loosen the engine-side and carb-side clamp on the rear cylinder's boot.

26. Gently wiggle the carburetor out of the boots whilst holding the air-box up.

27. Remove the boot connected to the rear cylinder completely. We'll re-attach this to the carb later.

28. Perform some voodoo dances, and then work the carbs out of the right-side of the bike. This may take a few minutes. Mind the wiring bundle whilst pushing the air-box up.

[Carbs removed, woohoo!]
 

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1986 VN750
Joined
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3,255 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
Update: Pulled the carbs today! That was fun, but I can see that putting them back in is going to be even worse.

Front bevel gear case is next, and then just some minor stuff before the engine comes out. I'm excited. :)
 

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MANIC MECHANIC
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943 Posts
I did mine In 2010, when I pulled the balancer off it actually had a tooth broken off.
 

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1986 VN750
Joined
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3,255 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
I did mine In 2010, when I pulled the balancer off it actually had a tooth broken off.
I am not sure if I am as excited now. :BLAM:
 

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MANIC MECHANIC
Joined
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943 Posts
Don't sweat it mine is the only one I have ever seen or heard of. Good part was I picked up one on eBay for 25$ US
 

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1986 VN750
Joined
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3,255 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
A quick update, and I'll update the main thread later with the steps.

Engine is out! Dampers replaced! Just needs to be re-assembled. Getting the engine out was twice as much as a pain as the carbs. Thank goodness I am doing the ear-shave, because that air box is a pita!
 

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1986 VN750
Joined
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3,255 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Engine has been buttoned up, and is back in the frame. The front bevel gear assembly is also back on. It was a bit of a pain, but not horrific. Carbs are in, which was easier without the airbox in the way. Getting them seated wasn't fun. The rear brake pedal assembly and shift-lever are buttoned in as well.

Tomorrow I hope to finish off the bike. Just need to figure out the choke cable routing, get the cooling system back in place, get the tank on, and refill fluids.

Now I'm excited again!
 

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1986 VN750
Joined
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3,255 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
She is back together and running. The damper knock is gone, and she feels smooth through the RPM range.

I have two pending issues.

1. Squeak on the right side of the engine. This is new, so I'm looking into it. May need to check the play in the clutch pedal rod?

2. Rough idle below 1400pm, and RPMs are slow to drop (i.e. between changing gears RPMs seem to maintain). Maybe a stuck float? It runs like a bat out of hell when I get on her now.

After some riding time I'll finalize the post and hope it will be a good resource for people later on.
 

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knees in the breeze!!!
Joined
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498 Posts
I have a buzzing vibration through most of the rpm range. could this be my dampeners?
I hear everyone say how smooth their bikes are but mine vibes like crazy. I cant see out of my mirrors at all until 75 mph
im afraid it might be this and ruin my motor

oh and how long does it take to do this
what else should I do while the motor is out? Stator mod?
oil seals?
 

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Registered
Joined
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7,666 Posts
Can't say much about the vibes, mine was smooth in the couple of miles I rode, with no mirrors. And I noticed none idling/revving in the shop.

The dampers are about the same as a stator job, adding one rotor bolt and one damper gear bolt to the job. The Bikemaster puller was $9.95.

Plan on a new shifter shaft seal, about $5-6 at my Kawi dealer.

Tuxedo mod if you're up for it. Do the splines and you can leave the bevel gear on the engine, but I guess some have done it without taking the rear off. Good time for coasters if you don't have them.

I'm thinking about re-routing the two wiring harnesses to run over the top of the trans while I have mine apart.
 

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ass hole extaordinaire
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3,780 Posts
i did my dampers in 5 hours start to finish but i get to do them again very soon cause i threw in some used ones i had but ended up with it starting the vibes again
 

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Prowling Tiger
Joined
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2,048 Posts
I have a buzzing vibration through most of the rpm range. could this be my dampeners?
I hear everyone say how smooth their bikes are but mine vibes like crazy. I cant see out of my mirrors at all until 75 mph
im afraid it might be this and ruin my motor

oh and how long does it take to do this
what else should I do while the motor is out? Stator mod?
oil seals?
Replace them now before they fly thru the engine casing! Another test you can do is put the bike on its center stand on a smooth surface. Run the engine and rev it a few times. Did it scoot across the floor? If so, get those PITA's replaced!
 

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ass hole extaordinaire
Joined
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3,780 Posts
Replace them now before they fly thru the engine casing! Another test you can do is put the bike on its center stand on a smooth surface. Run the engine and rev it a few times. Did it scoot across the floor? If so, get those PITA's replaced!
yep thats a good test mine isnt two stepping across the garage yet so i still have a little time to get the parts ordered but if you have any doubt that they are going and the bike isnt your sole means of transport park that thing until you replace them
 

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knees in the breeze!!!
Joined
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498 Posts
it don't walk around but when im riding I cant use my mirrors and it vibes so fast my wifes jealous!
 

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..have a vulcan good day!
Joined
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4,508 Posts
Replace them now before they fly thru the engine casing! Another test you can do is put the bike on its center stand on a smooth surface. Run the engine and rev it a few times. Did it scoot across the floor? If so, get those PITA's replaced!
Dampers.....
Mine went out @ 13 K miles !...stupid/idiotic me....somehow i did not realize vibration...( I swear there was no warning) (yeah, right !) cost $690. + ........With a VERY reasonable price of labor and additional damaged parts !
Involved an engine pull.... $30.00 for the 6 dampers (RonAyers).
I now also have the Tuxedo Mod and P/U Coil Mod performed....very happy.

:smiley_th +1
 

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Prowling Tiger
Joined
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2,048 Posts
Dampers.....
Mine went out @ 13 K miles !...stupid/idiotic me....somehow i did not realize vibration...( I swear there was no warning) (yeah, right !) cost $690. + ........With a VERY reasonable price of labor and additional damaged parts !
Involved an engine pull.... $30.00 for the 6 dampers (RonAyers).
I now also have the Tuxedo Mod and P/U Coil Mod performed....very happy.

:smiley_th +1
I paid about $86 for my replacement thanks to the warranty. Otherwise, I could have paid over $1100 for the complete job!
 

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Banned
Joined
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17 Posts
Dampers.....
Mine went out @ 13 K miles !...stupid/idiotic me....somehow i did not realize vibration...( I swear there was no warning) (yeah, right !) cost $690. + ........With a VERY reasonable price of labor and additional damaged parts !
Involved an engine pull.... $30.00 for the 6 dampers (RonAyers).
I now also have the Tuxedo Mod and P/U Coil Mod performed....very happy.

:smiley_th +1
I hope the stator mod serves you well.
I put a lot of time into it and the thread that supported it.
 

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..have a vulcan good day!
Joined
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4,508 Posts
I hope the stator mod serves you well.
I put a lot of time into it and the thread that supported it.
Yes indeed, serves me very well, and tyvm,
I do appreciate all you successful efforts and time. Well done !

:smiley_th +1
 
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