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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Problem: won't start

Bike: 2005 VN750 with new sealed battery installed alittle over a year ago.

History:
I went out one morning to take the bike to work and would turn but would not start. Repeated attempts to start it resulted with the bike backfiring. Not wishing to anger the still sleeping neighborhood, and to get to work on time I decided to put the bike back in the garage and take the car. Put the battery on a charger that night but the whole process was repeated the next morning. Tried again the following day, this time it would not even turn. I just got a click from the starter relay.
I checked the starter relay and it passed the test defined in the clymer book. One thing I did notice is that when starting the with just the bike in neutral the start relay makes a single click. If you hold the clutch in the relay makes a fastly repeated clicking sound - this may be normal, I'm not sure. The cluch cable does need adjusted (when pulling it, it kind of steps or catches) but don't think thats related to the starting problem.
I took the starter off the bike. I could turn the shaft by hand. At first it was kind of hard but it lossened up, other than that everything seemed ok. I hooked a battery to it and it turned. I put the starter back on the bike and once again only clicks.
I was starting to worry that the engine had seized, until I was able to drift it down the driveway and pop into 1st. Happily it started to turn but without enough speed it died out. Then I pushed it part way up a hill, drifted it down, popped it in gear and it started. After I shut it off, I tried to restart it and it just clicked. Next I tried a using my cars battery to jump it - no good. Next tried discontecting the lead to the starter and hooked the car battery directly to the starter and still nothing. Does not sound like anything is happening to the starter.
:confused: So hears the question: Why would the starter turn when it is off of the bike but not when it is on the bike? Is it in a weakened state whereas it is unable to turn the engine? A new starter is $382 so before I by one I would like to make sure that the less that two year old orginal is bad.

Help,
- George
 

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I would put everything back together in the bike except the battery. Get a MF AGM type battery.

Try that first.

If still nothing, jump the starter relay terminals with suitable heavy conductor. (my guess is bad relay)

If still nothing, there are rebuild kits for our starters at a fraction the price of a new one. Use the search feature and check for starter rebuild.

Jon
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Can't I rule out the battery because using my car battery did not work with the starter either? I have the bikes orginally battery on a charger. It was still good when I took it out last year, I just replaced it with a Maintance free one. When its charged I'll try it.

Would the old screw driver across the terminals of the starter relay classify as the jumping you suggested, if so I tied that with out sucess.

Thanks for the suggestions,
- George
 

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Have you done a voltage drop test between the battery and the starter (and along the line)? I don't have the wiring diagram in front of me, but there could be a short somewhere in between. If it does turn out to be your starter, however, and you don't want to do a rebuild, pm me - I bought one off of eBay last year and it's just accumulating dust.
 

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Heres what happened to me yesterday. I put my engine back in and the starter would not turn the engine over. I did all the things that you did. When I jumped the starter with my battery cables and my truck it kinda turned and then quit. So, I pulled my starter the brushes where stuck and not making good contact with the amateur. I cleaned the brushes and amateur with 2000 grit sandpaper. I pushed the brushes out of their holders and ensured that they moved freely. Now the tricky part. Make sure you write down the order of shims so, you can get them back right. If you have a friend that can help you will need them. Hold two of the brashes back and have your friend hold the other two back and let the armature slide back and put it all back together.
 

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Growling at the World...
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Problem: won't start
I'm not sure it is your starter. Maybe your relay IMHO... Check your grounds and your battery connections to both the relay and all through the bike. From what you describe, your starter is fine but is not getting the juice...

Now, if you DO replace your starter I would like to have your old one to rebuild as a spare for a VN750 member who might need one. I also have rebuild kits in stock if you need one...
 

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Discussion Starter #7
UPDATE: The orginal battery finished charging, so I swapped out the batteries. Then tried to start the bike without any success. After that I disconnected the battery cables and then using jumper cables I connected the battery straight to the starter by passing the relay and any other possible problems to the battery. It turned for a second then stopped. If every thing was working properly that should start the bike right?

This would rule out the relay as the source of the problem, correct?

Also it is unlikely that the two batteries have gone bad at the same time. So I'm back to the starter again. Wait, my wife reminded me of something that happened about two months ago after a 45 minute ride. I had some smoke coming from bike. I looked for the source but never found it. I just figured that something had flow up (bug or something) against the engine and got cooked. Maybe it was some wiring and now I have got a short. Which takes me to the Voltage drop test suggested above by piromedicx. I have never done this before I'll have to read up on it. I believe the bike has to be running to do the voltage drop test, which will make this harder.

Keep the ideas coming guys I need all the help I can get.
- George
 

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Growling at the World...
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Question...

When you bypassed and tried to start it direct, did the starter stop or was it still turning without the engine being turned? Could you hear it spinning?

If the answer is that the starter stopped turning, then you probably have a flat spot on your armature commutator. If you rebuild the starter, you will need to turn the comm (have it flatrocked round) as it is out of round and causing the brushes to loose connection with the comm.

If the starter was still spinning but the engine was not turning over, then your starter clutch is probably shot. This is NOT part of the starter, but is inside the case. I've never taken one of these out, so I don't know how much of a biach it is.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Bulldog: The starter stopped turning. A couple of times when I tried a direct connection it doesn't do anything.

Crobins: Thanks for the info. The first chance I get I'm going to follow those instructions and see what turns-up.

I think Bulldog is right on with what he said about the starter. I'm going to take it to Murray auto electric, a local shop that is welling to take a look at it for free.

Thanks,
- George
 

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Growling at the World...
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:smiley_th
I think Bulldog is right on with what he said about the starter. I'm going to take it to Murray auto electric, a local shop that is welling to take a look at it for free.

Thanks,
- George
If they rebuild it, have them order STK-RBK-1 from WAI for the rebuild :smiley_th



They have a good reputation, so they should do the job right. We sell a lot of product to them...
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Here an update. I took the starter and relay (solenoid) to a shop to have them checked out. The shop said that both were good. My wife was talking to a guy that had a simular problem with a Yamaha. He said his problem turned out to be something related to the clutch. Earlier I said "The clutch cable does need adjusted (when pulling it, it kind of steps or catches) but don't think thats related to the starting problem" well maybe it does. I haven't touched that yet because I didn't want to and to my problems, but adjusting the clutch cable should be fairly easy. I'll post something on transmission forum.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I didn't get much time tonight to work on the bike but what I did get done was putting the starter and relay back on, re-topped off the oil, and adjusted the clutch cable. the cable adjustment helped some but the clutch lever still clicks thru the travel.

The BIG news was that the bike did start once. fired right up and ran. This was after the starter was re-installed. Remember I had it off for the shop to inspect it. During which they had it apart. I still am leaning towards it being the starter or secondly the gears that mesh up to the starter?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I gave up and took it to a dealership

I gave up and took it to a dealership to let them figure it out. I have been told that it is the stator that something sorted out inside there. To add to it, it heated up bad enough to damage the clutch cable so that needs replaced also. With labor I’m looking at least over $900 if nothing got fried like the rectifier. Not even 2 years old and just over 3200 miles on it. I to avoid having problems I bought a new bike and a VN750 because of its reputation. I’m so pissed right now I’m thinking of trading it in on a Ninja 650.
 

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Shouldn't that be covered under warranty?
 

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Discussion Starter #16
broken - another stator problem.

No, the standard warrenty is for one year - unless you get the extended and I didn't. The way it works for me is if I pay for the extended I never need it, and if I don't I do.
 

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Did you have the dealer do any oil changes and other maintenance? Or do you have receipts for any maintenance work you've done?
With mileage that low, and what sounds like some major problems, I think I'd insist on Kawasaki, at the very least, covering part of the bill, especially since you bought it new.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I've done the work myself. Not that there has been that much at 3000 miles. I did talk to the dealership they said that, since 2006 Kawasaki has had a new policy about not paying out of warrenty. He added that if it was mechanical, like a bad piston I would stand a better chance. I should add that this is not the dealership I bought the bike from.
 

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So, the stator cooked and the heat from the cooking crisped your clutch cable, which is running outside the left-side engine cover? :confused: Have you checked to see if your left foot is still attached? Dag, that seems like a lot of heat.
 
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