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Discussion Starter #1
After a futile attempt at a stator and R/R replacement and rebuild I went through last Summer, I decided to take the bike to my personal mechanic to have the continuous issue diagnosed. He said all my spaded connection from stator to rectifier, as well as all grounded spade connections needed to be soldered, because apparently the new Caltric stator and R/R are already fried from one day of use on faulty connections.

I just received my new MOSFET R/R and now I'm looking for a suitable replacement for my stator yet again. From what I've gained, the best solution is a TPE rewind, but that he's actually not in business anymore. So I'm looking for a new OEM replacement, but can't seem to source one. Anyone know where I can find one on short notice? I have 10 days to get this solved, because I go to bootcamp December 6th and need the bike gone before then.
 

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1986 VN750
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Your kawasaki dealer will get you an OEM stator the fastest. Online places have to wait to get the part from Kawasaki, then it goes to you. They can probably have it within 3 days or less.

Worth the price now since there's no other option.
 

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2000 VN 750 Senior Member
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...... I have 10 days to get this solved, because I go to bootcamp December 6th and need the bike gone before then.
Sorry I can't help with the stator problem but if I am reading your post correctly then a sincere "Thank you" for your service to this country. Good luck and stay safe. I am sure many of us would enjoy reading your future updates while you train and then go to your assignments. Don't be a stranger to the forum with or without a VN 750.
 

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FREEBIRDS MC CENTRAL NY
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yes thanks for your service

Sent from my LGL34C using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Went ahead and bought a Rick's Motorsports stator with a 1-year warranty from a local shop. Gonna install that straight to the new Shendengin R/R, and from that to the battery, along with the coil-relay bypass mod. Cutting out the JB and wiring harness entirely, right? No excuses on why I shouldn't be getting voltage this time.
 

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Some thoughts on connecting the rectifier directly to the battery:

1. Connecting the rectifier output directly to the battery will bypass the 30amp main fuse in the junction box. Best to add an inline fuse between rectifier and battery to prevent potential fireworks if your R/R starts dumping higher than expected voltages.

2. Once you've connected your rectifier to your battery, the current from the rectifier to the rest of the bike will still be going through the junction box: Rectifier to battery terminal, battery terminal to JB pin1, through main fuse, out on JB pin2 to the ignition switch. Voltage must be provided on pin1 is necessary to run the fan (or add your own manual switch or relay outside the JB). You could cut the harness at pin 2 and splice that harness wire into pin 1's wire so the rectifier is directly supplying voltage to the battery, the fan relay, and the ignition. Would need another 30 amp fuse between the battery and the ignition to prevent a short in the harness from dumping the entire capacity of the battery.

3. If you still need the battery connected to the JB in order to run the fan, you might as well just avoid the whole splicing mess and use the JB's main fuse and pin2. Unless your junction box pins are corroded to nothing, a touch with some fine sandpaper will ensure good electrical contact.

Good luck!
 

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Sparky!!!
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Thorn, you still need power to pin 1 in the JB, for the light systems and gauges. by wiring the R/R strait to the battery but not changing any thing else you are still feeding power to the JB through the stock wiring harness from the bullet connector at the starter solenoid. I would use a 30 AMP Circuit Breaker inline with the power out of R/R to battery instead of a fuse that way you don't loose power completly in the event of a momentary short.
 

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Hey Slim,

I talked myself into a more complicated scenario than Dr.Badnews was suggesting when he said he was bypassing the junction box completely. I thought he wanted the supply to the ignition switch to bypass the JB in addition to the ignition coil bypass mod. (i.e. removing voltage from pin 1, which I was trying to find a possible working solution to with point 2 and recommend against in point 3) In hindsight, this was totally unnecessary.

The white/red wire from the battery to the JB will feed the ignition properly via pin 1 if left alone.
 

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Sparky!!!
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Hey Slim,



The white/red wire from the battery to the JB will feed the ignition properly via pin 1 if left alone.
correct, I bypassed my JB completly, and it was not an easy task... iirc it took me about 2 weeks to complete the task to include drawing the wiring diagram to rewiring the whole bike... the ignition system was the trickiest part, made simpler by geting rid of the stock ignition control box and using a Ignitech programable module.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I've already done the 2-wire and blue wire bypasses, and now need to replace the harness wires connected to the R/R because the ground wire coming out of it melted and some wires around it.

I will be installing a 30-amp fuse from the R/R to the battery. Where should I run the new ground wire coming out of the MOSFET R/R, and what all do I have to splice to retain light and fan functions through the JB?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Looks like I'll also be installing the coil relay bypass mod while I'm at this.
 

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As long as you don't disconnect the white/red wire from the battery when you run a new line from the R/R to the positive battery you won't need to splice anything for the fan/lights to work.

If I were doing it, I'd run a pair of wires (positive and ground) from the R/R to the battery. Basically just mimics what the original harness ground did.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Positive lead off the R/R to the positive terminal on the battery obviously. But you're saying you'd hook the ground off the R/R to the negative terminal on the battery?

Makes sense to me, but I don't know much about electronics and the direction with the mosfet says to ground it on the chassis. Not sure if the concept is the same. But I've heard about too much electricity flowing to certain spots causing excessive over heating. Can't afford to make another mistake like that.
 

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FREEBIRDS MC CENTRAL NY
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any ground will work

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Discussion Starter #15
I broke off the bolt to the main ground off the negative battery terminal by over cranking it. Relocated the main ground to the left side of the battery cage. Hope that doesn't effect anything. Wired the new MOSFET R/R to the battery and ground. About to install the new Rick's Motorsports stator.

I've been test running the bike around the neighborhood, and of course it died on me without a stator; but it died far sooner than usual. I remember reading something about a bad R/R will fry a stator, or was it vice versa?

Will my new R/R be damaged by running the bike without the stator equipped? I was just making sure there was no smoke shows on the bike before wiring in the new stator. Hate to buy more parts for this.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
UPDATE:

After swapping out the old Caltric(more like cheap-trick) charging system with a new Rick's MS stator and Shendengen MOSFET R/R, bypassing the wiring harness, I'm getting 14.2 volts across the terminals at idle through max speed.

No fluctuation, and that's alright by me. It actually feels like a motorcycle again, and not a gas-powered electric bike. Now it's time to install a voltmeter and coil-relay mod, and see how long it lasts.
 

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UPDATE:

After swapping out the old Caltric(more like cheap-trick) charging system with a new Rick's MS stator and Shendengen MOSFET R/R, bypassing the wiring harness, I'm getting 14.2 volts across the terminals at idle through max speed.

No fluctuation, and that's alright by me. It actually feels like a motorcycle again, and not a gas-powered electric bike. Now it's time to install a voltmeter and coil-relay mod, and see how long it lasts.
How's the bike running now? I've done similar work on mine and thought I was home free. It's recently stopped starting.
 
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