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Discussion Starter #1
After spending 6 hours last night and staying up till the wee hours of the morning, I've learned a lot about my bike in a short amount of time.

The main issue I've had thus far, and is no surprise based on what I've read, is a charging issue. The first sign is when I took the bike to get inspected and the battery dies flat out. I replace it and get within two miles of my house before the second battery (new one) pops and loses all charge, leaving me to push it the last two miles through texas hill country in 100+ degree heat.

So after finally realizing its not just a acid battery issue, I took a voltmeter and tested power going to the battery. The reading barely reached 11.5-11.8 volts, which is basically relying solely on the battery.

I began disassembling the area under the seat to gain access and remove the voltage regulator to inspect it. The harness plug and the regulator look like their toast which causes me great concern as to the condition of the stator.

So here are some of the questions I have:

1.) Based on the pics and reading off the battery, is this an obvious sign the stator is done? When I pull the cover that leads to the stator, is oil going to spill out? (I know probably a dumb question)

2.) I plan on replacing the stock regulator with a mosfet upgrade kit and relocating it as well. Is this a good kit and worth relocation at the same time?
I have a link to one on ebay, but it won't allow me to post since I have less than 5 posts lol.

3.) I plan on replacing the tail light to an LED panel and doing the same with the turn signals to reduce power draw on the overall system. Is this worth the cost and is it beneficial?

4.) I've already purchased an AGM battery and have Iridium Spark plugs coming in as well.




 

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First off, Welcome to the forum. Answers to the questions: #1, Stator is not necessarily none. By looking at the pictures, I'd say that the R/R and plug is definitely a major issue. Read in the verses section and it will help you test the AC voltage from the stator. It is an AC voltage until it gets to the r/r. #2, the mosfet upgrade kit is well worth the money and the relocation is well worth the time. #3, can't tell you anything on the LEDs. #4, The Iridium Spark plugs helped my bike tremendously on cold starts and improved the middle rpm throttle ups.
Hope this helps somewhat. Others will chime in before long. Happy riding.:beerchug:
 

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A little oil will come out if you remove the outer cover to the stator, but not much. Just have a rag handy to catch it.

However, I'm not sure why you want to take off that cover.
**It's not necessary in order to test the stator;
**the stator cannot be removed from there unless you plan to do the stator mod found on this forum;
**and you might potentially cause oil to leak from the cover unless you have a replacement o-ring.
**Not to mention, each of the 3 cover screws have their own tiny o-rings that are easily damaged -- another place oil can leak.

You may have a good reason for opening that area up, but I don't want you to cause yourself a headache unnecessarily. Just my 2 cents.

John
 
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Discussion Starter #4
I read over the stator mod, and am impressed with it but I probably would not try it. I could do it with no problem, but riding around with it would leave me uneasy.

I plan on going to Barnes and Noble to pick up a service manual to make this a bit easier. I wanted to pull the cover to inspect the wires and make sure nothing is shorting out. From what I read, the headlight not working is an indicator of a bad stator, but I haven't had any issues with it.

I work at O'reillys and have access to plenty of o-rings and have a motorcycle store down the street called Alamo Cycleplex that keeps stock on most of the parts I'll ever need.
 

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Pulling that cover will not give you much to look at, A meter and some continuity/voltage checks would tell you what you need to know. I havent seen it mentioned but you will have to remove the engine to replace the stator.
When my stator went bad the only indication I got was my headlight was not working, so you are right about that. I replace my R/R with a mosfet and so far very pleased with it. They say it runs cooler so I didnt relocate mine, it bolts right up where the original one goes. Let us know how its going.

Take a look at this link, Im not all for the cover mod either. mess that up and im sure a new side cover is $$$$. But this will show you the view you will have if you remove the cover.

http://www.vn750.com/forum/showthread.php?t=16839&page=5
 

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When you run the testing of the stator, be sure to test it at the bullet connectors. Follow the yellow wires to behind the engine, that is where the connectors are.
 

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3.) I plan on replacing the tail light to an LED panel and doing the same with the turn signals to reduce power draw on the overall system. Is this worth the cost and is it beneficial?
There are many on this forum who will disagree, but replacing OEM lights with LEDs won't make it any easier for the stator or the RR. What it does is it allows you to add (electrical) accessories without fear of over taxing the charging system.
 
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Discussion Starter #8
Good news guys. So far after checking the resistance between the 3 wires at the butt connections leading to the stator, resistance stayed around .3 to .5 between all 3 wires.

At this point, I will order the mosfet regulator and install the AGM battery. This should greatly improve the electronics and lengthen the life of the stator.
 

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Hi, Sounds like you readings are within manual specs (.34-.52) I am working on an issue of bad connectors from the stator. I had read the posts about the headlight not working after R/R replacement and have found the wiring diagram explaning the circuit in the manual (pg 15-36) showing the yellow wire coming from the Alternator that picks up the headlight relay. This being the case, a ground reference from the stator wires is required. The test for the stator is shown on pg 15-18 of the manual showing there should be an infinity reading from any wire to ground, which conflicts with this idea. I would like to know what you got for readings from your wires to ground if you have them. The reason I ask is I replaced my factory connectors and reconnected at random (the three yellow wires). This improved my charge voltage from 12v to 13v, but I had no headlight. I swapped two of the wires to get the headlight to work. This is because one of my leads from the stator is grounded and one of the other two is required to power the headlight relay, something to think about when replacing the R/R. If you connect the new R/R using the 3 yellow wires at the old R/R instead of the round connectors at the end of the stator wires you won't have the headlight problem by maintaining the connection of the alternator wire to pin 9 of the junction box.
 

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..a ground reference from the stator wires is required..
There is ground reference through diodes in the thyristor regulator, or through the FETs in a FET regulator.

The test for the stator is shown on pg 15-18 of the manual showing there should be an infinity reading from any wire to ground, which conflicts with this idea.
The test is with the stator disconnected from the RR. No conflict there.

This is because one of my leads from the stator is grounded..
You mean deliberately grounded? None of them must be grounded!
 

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LED advantage

There are many on this forum who will disagree, but replacing OEM lights with LEDs won't make it any easier for the stator or the RR. What it does is it allows you to add (electrical) accessories without fear of over taxing the charging system.
I like LED brake lights cuz I can sit at a stop light on a hill and hold the brakes w/o a draw down of the system especially on a hot day when the fan comes on. Because the brake lights are intermittent, they aren't a user of watts under normal riding.
 

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There is ground reference through diodes in the thyristor regulator, or through the FETs in a FET regulator.
Thanks, I was thinking of the ac side only, this puts a diode in the return to the other two phases of the Stator so it shouldn't matter which of the wires if feeding the JB.


The test is with the stator disconnected from the RR. No conflict there.
Understood.


You mean deliberately grounded? None of them must be grounded!
No not deliberate, looks like I will be taking a look at the stator. :doh: One odd thing is with the grounded wire connected to the JB it runs good but after swapping connection for headlight operation there is a mid throttle loss of engine power under load.
 

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Here is a link of how I did my mosfet install. I Replaced my R/R along with my stator that went bad. Used the original stator wires at the R/R connector. Pluggeg in the new Stator using the original bullets.

Now saying that. Did your wires short? They look like they could have from your photos. If thats the case and you plan on using your original stator wiring. You may want to inspect it first. Reason is the short would of been felt the length of the wire, if where was a week spot in the middle some where there could be damage that you cant see even colateral damage of other wires. Just an idea. Would suck to spend all that time and money get the bike going again just to have the a problem hidddin in side the harness.

http://www.vn750.com/forum/showthread.php?t=18361&highlight=mosfet
 
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Discussion Starter #16
I disconnected the stator wires at the bullets to test the resistance. Does it matter which way they are plugged? As in can any one of the male ends go into any female end?
 
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