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Rider on the Storm
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1,287 Posts
Looks like a great article. Of course, being mechanically/electrically-challenged, I understand very little of it.

I do know that when my RR fried I got a replacement with BIG FINS!
 

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MANIC MECHANIC
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943 Posts
it is the same one chiron and i settled on in the thinking of trying the ce602 thread
the fho12aa is available as a kit with connectors from www.roadstercycle.com
we are going with the universal kit and wiring to the battery with an inline fuse. the kit is about 120+ shipping
 

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Premium Member
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5,236 Posts
it is the same one chiron and i settled on in the thinking of trying the ce602 thread
the fho12aa is available as a kit with connectors from www.roadstercycle.com
we are going with the universal kit and wiring to the battery with an inline fuse. the kit is about 120+ shipping
All I know is I wish you guys had found this R/R before i went back stock a little over a month ago.This looks very promising
 

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MANIC MECHANIC
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943 Posts
i havent ordered mine yet i am still waiting on the rest of the parts and i am building a custom battery box to hold to hold an exide sc30lfa 400cca and a set of accel super coils
pn140403 i hope it will handle the amperage it says it will. if so heat shouldnt be a problem.
it should barely break a sweat
 

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Premium Member
Joined
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5,236 Posts
i havent ordered mine yet i am still waiting on the rest of the parts and i am building a custom battery box to hold to hold an exide sc30lfa 400cca and a set of accel super coils
pn140403 i hope it will handle the amperage it says it will. if so heat shouldnt be a problem.
it should barely break a sweat
Go big or go home!
 

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The Professor
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3,147 Posts
Hey slim, is that what we already have??
Our regulators are SCR (Silicone Controlled Rectifier) the latest and greatest are MOSFET (Metal Oxide Semiconductor Field Effect Transistor)

Basicaly it's like going from Analalog to Digital, Mosfet has been around for atleast 30 years but has only been used on M/C's for about 10.

The CE602 uses the same Series design as the SH775AA. The MOSFET Shunt design is used in the the Shindengen FH008, FH009, FH010, FH011, FH012 and the FH014 but the FH011 was designed for maximum cooling. It has the mother of ALL heatsinks, I just purchased 2 FH012's and 1 FH011 R/R's and waterproof connectors from Ebay.

Rkcdude will get the first upgrade to the FH011, pics and write up will soon follow. I also purchased an infrared gun type thermometor to test the changes in temperature.
 

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MANIC MECHANIC
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943 Posts
Go big or go home!
thats how we do it where i am from but i cannot take credit hizzo3 built the first oversize battery box on here to hold a westco 12v30 350cca the one i am using is the exide cross reference for the yix30 found in harley touring bikes even though the exide is rated 400cca it tests at 445cca we are an exide dealer so i get a break on the price.:smiley_th
 

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Registered
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241 Posts
Lance, the CE602 doesn't use the same design as the FH012. They both use MOSFETS, but the CE602 is a series style and the FH012 is a shunt style like the OEM. That's why there was so much discussion over the R/R choice on the other thread.

Speaking of batteries y'all, anyone know what the highest capacity (amp hours) battery is that fits in our box? I'm not so worried about cca's.
 

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Premium Member
Joined
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5,236 Posts
Our regulators are SCR (Silicone Controlled Rectifier) the latest and greatest are MOSFET (Metal Oxide Semiconductor Field Effect Transistor)

Basicaly it's like going from Analalog to Digital, Mosfet has been around for atleast 30 years but has only been used on M/C's for about 10.

The CE602 uses the same MOSFET design as the Shindengen FH008, FH009, FH010, FH011, FH012 and the FH014 but the FH011 was designed for maximum cooling. It has the mother of ALL heatsinks, I just purchased 2 FH012's and 1 FH011 R/R's and waterproof connectors from Ebay.

Rkcdude will get the first upgrade to the FH011, pics and write up will soon follow. I also purchased an infrared gun type thermometor to test the changes in temperature.
With Tim's Stator and the new Mosfet regulators may be what we all have been looking for,As for mosfet's. I first started working with them on walk behind Electric pallet jacks.The replaced either bulky resistor drives that controls speed and direction of a DC motor.with relays and resistors,or SCR drives (Silicon controlled rectifier)which controls speed by gating on and off at varying speeds but was still kinda bulky with all the relays still required and a control card that turned on the scr and then either reversed the positive and negative or removed all power to turn off the scr.The big advantage to the Mosfets were the fact that a transistor could be turned on and without all the Hassle of scrs and they were a high current low voltage switch that don't build a lot of heat.they replaced a whole panel and a bunch of resistors with a small box about 2/3 the size of a shoebox with a speed pot to control gate voltage.This gives me a good idea this will be a better system.than what we have now.I am glad that some one at a factory somewhere decided we need a constant voltage that doesn't vary a lot and I think that electronic fuel injection and engine management systems requiring a constant steady voltage are the reasons that we have better charging system components available.
 

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MANIC MECHANIC
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943 Posts
the battery i am putting in mine is 28ah but you will have to build a new box turn the battery sideways and lengthen the positive cable. but it will fit search 12v30 to find hizzo3 thread about this.
 

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Premium Member
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1,126 Posts
I want to put my order in for a regulator upgrade. It seems scary to do. Is there a picture tutorial or something? Any news on the lance one per chance?
 

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MANIC MECHANIC
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943 Posts
The instructions are at www.roadstercycle.com . It bolts back in the stock location if you like. There is one leg from the stator that goes to the JB, What I did to fix this was wire the stator leg from the JB to the unused sense wire from the factory R/R. So the R/R is Wired straight to the stator and then straight to the battery with a 30A inline fuse.
 

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Young Gun
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213 Posts
There is one leg from the stator that goes to the JB, What I did to fix this was wire the stator leg from the JB to the unused sense wire from the factory R/R. So the R/R is Wired straight to the stator and then straight to the battery with a 30A inline fuse.

Hey Joe, can you clarify the bit about the stator leg from the JB wired to the sense wire? I just received my new R/R and am (painfully) oblivious to electrical work, although this wiring seems within my abilities.

As I understand it, just wire the 3 yellow wires from the stator to the R/R.
Then run wires from the R/R to the (+) and (-) on the battery. 30A Fuse on the (+).

[not my image, mine's not installed yet]


Just not sure on the sense wire you were talking about... Did you just leave the stock R/R wiring or cut it off?

I'm going to need to extend the yellow wires from the stator, anyone know what gauge these are? The R/R came with 10g wire to connect to the battery.
 
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