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and the Adventure Cycle
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Discussion Starter #1
I was contemplating my engine shift for the stator replacement. :doh:
Then I started thinking about the removable frame section on the clutch side of the bike.
Has anyone ever heard of or seen the frame made to have a removable section on the stator side?
Are there any major concerns anyone can share about this idea?
I have access to all the material and equipment to do this, just wondering what everyone thinks about it. Seems it would be cheaper than a modded stator cover, though it would still require an initial engine removal.

Any/all input is appreciated.
 

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Premium Member
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1,766 Posts
Having mine apart in the garage right now, I don't understand why the left side wasn't the removeable section instead.

It would make short order of a stator change. What on earth were the Kaw engineerings thingk about :dead_hors

Jon
 

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Premium Member
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1,647 Posts
Clutch changes. I believe their thinking was that the clutch would need to be replaced more often than the stator. Unfortunatlely, they were wrong but did nothing to correct the problem.
 

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Search Goddess
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2,002 Posts
We've talked about putting in a sub-frame on the left side. The one consideration would be re-enforcing the break points so the frame is still solid.
Believe the frame is hollow tube, one thought was to insert a core slug that the parts bolted through. The other was to form a collar around the two cuts. Third option was to do both.
The left side has offsetting tabs that bolt together, so another option would be to cut out a section at both places and weld in the tabs that would bolt together.

Ummm.. so yeah, we've thought about it!
 

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Search Goddess
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2,002 Posts
Oh yeah, couple of other things...
I don't think the sub frame on the left would have to be as big as the one on the right. Main area of concentration is the stator cover, you only need to be able to pull that off, so just the lower bend area and along the bottom.
Secondly you would need to pay attention to your peg mounts etc that go along that section and try and leave that area intact.
You also want to make sure that it goes back solid and can hold up to any vibration.

There, how's that for a few thoughts!
 

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Uber Member
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1,280 Posts
ehh, i thought about it... then relized that it wasnt worth the major R&D and welding. i guess you could just pull the subframe off a junker, and cut and put tabs on the right.... I dunno. I just went got a TOC cover. I think that should have been the right approach from Kawasaki in the first place....
 

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and the Adventure Cycle
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6,141 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
The left side has offsetting tabs that bolt together, so another option would be to cut out a section at both places and weld in the tabs that would bolt together.
That's what I was thinkin', making it very similar to the clutch side.

I have a bar of Titanium that was left over from a job at work that would certainly hold up, just gotta see what the possibilities of that being welded to the frame are.
And if that's not doable, I'd probably go with stainless steel pieces. I could even get the entire subframe part, with the bend, made from stainless tubing. or maybe even solid bar stock.

Right now it's just something I was thinking about. I haven't even ordered a stator, or tested the R/R yet, so I'm not in a hurry. With the sub 30º temps we've been having, it looks like I'll have plenty of time now.

The one thing that concerned me most was if the frame might twist if it's cut.

Thanks for the thoughts on this folks :smiley_th .
If anyone has anything else to add, feel free.
 

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699 Posts
I wish I remember what thread I said that in, but if the left side removed also It would be a great idea!!!!

I found it...last page of the stator rebuild, Dianna'a post then mine, I say go for it, improve the bike!!!
 

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Premium Member
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328 Posts
i have a frame in at the moment and that is just what we are doing twin removable downtubes (makes engine removal easier and for minor jobs unnesesary) will let you know how it turnes out and post some pics, to show what reinforcing / bracing was needed (if nesesary)
 

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and the Adventure Cycle
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6,141 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
i have a frame in at the moment and that is just what we are doing twin removable downtubes (makes engine removal easier and for minor jobs unnesesary) will let you know how it turnes out and post some pics, to show what reinforcing / bracing was needed (if nesesary)
Sound great. :beerchug:
I wouldn't think it'd be too difficult. Good luck on your mod, and I 'll be waiting to see/hear how it goes.
 

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328 Posts
Preliminary Pics Posted
 

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Premium Member
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We Have A Doner Frame That Someone Hacked The Back Off So We Are Going To Use The Frame Inserts Out Of It To Make The Joints And Alter The Lower Frame To Mimick The Right Side So It Will Match. Also Have An Old Set Of Casses To Use As Part Of The Jig And Stays Will Be Welded Where Ever Necesary To Stop It Twisting When Cut And Removed When Were Done Then We Will Test The Rigidity As We Don't Wont To Make It To Flexable Or To Stiff.
one Idea We Did Through Out Was To Break The Frame Behined The Feul Tank And At The Upper Downtube Joint On Both Sides So You Cauld Remove The Top/front Half Of The Bike From The Lower Rear, Like Four Cylinder Bmw's Do, Leaving The Engine Axcessable On The Centre Stand With Lower Frame And Rear Wheel Assembily Attatched.
 

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Uber Member
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1,280 Posts
you know what would be wonderfull?!?!?? strengthen the upper frame, and use the engine as an added frame member like them BMW's. talk about and easy engine drop then lol... that would be cool though. rig the pegs up to a bar that mounts to the engine
 

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and the Adventure Cycle
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6,141 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
We Have A Doner Frame ....Going To Use The Frame Inserts Out Of It To Make The Joints And Alter The Lower Frame To Mimick The Right Side So It Will Match.
There's a frame on ebay right now that's less than 20 miles from me !!
$50 and no shipping if I pick it up (+ $50 if it's shipped) ! That'd save me some time by using the right side pieces for a left side sub-frame like you're doing.
I don't have any extra engine cases sitting around, so I'll probably make some type of clamps to attach to the frame instead, to keep things from twisting.

Not sure if they have any other bits-n-pieces left for the bike, but if I see any parts I'll see what they want for them too.
 

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Premium Member
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328 Posts
i will just be using the end inserts that are welded in to the right side as the down tubes are different but it saves machining them from scratch and trying to make them look identicle.

engine as frame bracewould look to much like a virago, personaly i like a full cradle frame, it looks right.

solid or stainless frame rails remember solid is not as strong or rigid as tube and is a lot heavier, and stainless has serious fatigue problems it's good at not rusting and thats about it.

best of luck and happy modding.
 

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and the Adventure Cycle
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6,141 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
i will just be using the end inserts that are welded in to the right side as the down tubes are different but it saves machining them from scratch and trying to make them look identicle.
solid or stainless frame rails remember solid is not as strong or rigid as tube and is a lot heavier, and stainless has serious fatigue problems it's good at not rusting and thats about it.

best of luck and happy modding.
I'm going to use just the insert pieces also (as long as I win the auction). I was going to do the welding myself with my MIG welder, but I now I plan on having the pieces TIG welded at work.
Good point about the stainless.

I wish you luck on your modding too :beerchug: (although you seem to have it all down pretty good).
 

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solid or stainless frame rails remember solid is not as strong or rigid as tube and is a lot heavier, and stainless has serious fatigue problems it's good at not rusting and thats about it.

best of luck and happy modding.
you can always fill the tube with a foam insulate
 

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Premium Member
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328 Posts
Remember The Motto Check Three Times, Measure Twice, Weld Once.(the First Two Are Minimums) Grined The Damn Thing Apart Again Zero Times. And Always Take The Proper Precautions, Even Though It Takes Longer And Caution Is For Sissys...lol. It Is Well Worth Learning To.............weld With Your Fingers Crossed..lol
 

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and the Adventure Cycle
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6,141 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
Remember The Motto Check Three Times, Measure Twice, Weld Once.(the First Two Are Minimums) Grined The Damn Thing Apart Again Zero Times. And Always Take The Proper Precautions, Even Though It Takes Longer And Caution Is For Sissys...lol. It Is Well Worth Learning To.............weld With Your Fingers Crossed..lol
Will do !!
I figure I'll use the empty frame to make sure I have my sizes right, THEN cut the good frame once I know things will fit properly.

Welding will be done with fingers and toes crossed !! (I'll try to keep my eyes UNcrossed !!
 

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