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ANYONE CHANGE THE STATOR WITH OUT COMPLETELY REMOVING ENGINE? ANY TIPS AND TRICKS WOULD BE APPRECIATED. ANY SPECIAL TOOLS NEEDED?. 1996 VN 750
 

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FREEBIRDS MC CENTRAL NY
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16,076 Posts
You have to get the motor most of the way out antway...so make it easier and just take it out.
 

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ass hole extaordinaire
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3,780 Posts
yup it can be done but your only about two bolts away from pulling the motor and having plenty of room

post up your location and some one might be near enough to give a helping hand
 

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2000 VN 750 Senior Member
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2,494 Posts
And do a search on the topic and see all the answers for this procedure before you start. It will be beneficial to know what you are getting into before hand so there are no surprises.
 

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Concert connoisseur
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2,231 Posts
full write up in my sig, but like they said, its easier to remove it all the way so you can get A good seal on the gaskets
 

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I just went thru this two weeks ago, just pull the engine and be done with it. While you have it open go ahead and change out your balence dampers aswell. I couldn't be more happier with mine since the rebuild. Enjoy.
 

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FREEBIRDS MC CENTRAL NY
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16,076 Posts
After reading all of this i can't help but wonder...what would Jimmy Buffrt do?;)he'd pull the motor,after he poured himself something tall and strong.after all,its 5 oclock somewhere.
 

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Alpha Geek
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487 Posts
The "Tuxedo Seven" mod is pretty simple to do, if you want to shell out about 60 bucks for a premade plate or make one yourself. You'd need a dremel or oscillating tool to cut the left side engine case (small cutting wheel on a drill ina pinch), compass or micrometer to draw nice circles on some sheet metal, and the ability to drill holes accurately. I did it myself and it was pretty easy. I didn't have to goop up the gasket or anything. I just used a light coating of RTV just to make sure it sealed 100%.

Worst case, you order a plate if you can't position it yourself after making a couple of bad plates. But a trick is to drill all 3 holes in one set, drill 2/3 of the other set (either way, doesn't matter). Now use feeler gauges to check your stator clearance. If it needs to be shifted, use set of holes that you only drilled 2 of the 3. One hole as a pivot, slot the 2nd hole to tweak the stator position (think cars where the alternator is used to take up slack in the belt), then drill your 3rd hole accordingly. Bingo. 2 slots can allow things to shift if anything loosens. 1 slot and 2 normal holes can't shift.

Gap your pickup coils while you're in there.

If you think you need to do the balancers, maybe just pull the engine but that's more work than I wanted to do.
 

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Concert connoisseur
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2,231 Posts
got my plate from glen c, perfect fit just took some careful cutting with a dremel on the generator cover and a lot of cutting on the outside cover to remove the ribs to make room for the pickup coil wires, did not need gasket sealant on the outside cover
 

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Alpha Geek
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487 Posts
If you want to spend $60 vs $5 go ahead. I'm sure he makes good stuff even though he started talking sh** about me for trying to share free info that cut into his profits. ;)

If you want to follow my schematics (if they haven't been deleted again LMFAO!) then it's just a matter of marking an arbitrary center with a punch or nail, then drilling 3 holes on 2 circles. Any monkey can do it for $5 in metal from Home Depot or Menards. :)
 
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