Kawasaki VN750 Forum banner

1 - 17 of 17 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I am really wanting to do the "Ear Shave" on my '92 this spring. I just got a set of Cobra Pipes and I want to do the shave when I install them.

I have read a lot about it and and tracked down all the parts that I will need. Seems like it can be a pain in the a#$ because of the airbox and carbs being cramped in the frame. But, that just gives me an excuse to spend a whole day in the garage. :smiley_th

Has anyone experienced any problems after doing this? (Ex. sluggish throttle, bogging, poor idle, etc...)

The reason that I ask is because I had a problem with my engine randomly sputtering due to an improperly placed vacuum line.
Here is the thread from that issue.
http://www.vn750.com/forum/showthread.php?t=17570

I had to re-route the vacuum line into the back of the right side Ear to keep wind from blowing in and causing the carbs to cut out on me.

If I remove the ears and airbox/hoses, will I encounter any problems like this? Or any other problems for that matter? I'd really hate to modify the stock intake on my bike just to end up causing some kind of problem that takes me forever to diagnose.

Thanks for any info!!
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
11,865 Posts
The only issue in altering the air intake is adjusting the jetting properly to get the proper fuel/air mixture.

Luckily, there have been enough here that have done this to help you out that it makes it alot easier.

If it's something you really want to do, I'd say go for it. There's many here happy with theirs, and can help you out if you run into any problems.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,026 Posts
It's a fairly straightforward procedure, the only downside to it is you have to use inferior (and by that I mean they don't filter as well, not talking about performance here) filters, which will allow more dirt into your engine. That part has been proven in tests. I'm just going by the "common sense" method in coming to the conclusion that more dirt in the engine means accelerated engine wear and reduced engine longevity.

It does simplify things, and I love simplicity. I have removed the complete CA evap system, the complete air injection system, the clutch and sidestand safety switches, the rear throttle cable, the license plate bracket and light, and even the right front brake (which besides simplifying things, actually improved braking feel and performance for me). In other words, I removed most of the things that either served no purpose and looked bad to me, and/or were actually detrimental to the performance of the bike. But I kept the complete stock intake system, mainly because of the filters, but also because I actually like the ears. I am mainly a long distance highway rider, and rack up a lot of miles (71,000 on my '02 so far), and I want my engine to last as long as possible.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the responses.

I just wanted to make sure that I wasn't going to run into problems with vacuum lines or something that would cause the bike to run poorly.

I figure that I'll probably need to re-jet for the Cobra Pipes anyway. (Even though it says you don't have to) My bike always seemed like it was slightly lean in stock form. So....I figured that it would be a perfect time to do the ear shave.

I love the look of the bike without the ears. Plus, I hate how the reeds cause so much popping and backfiring. That airbox just seems ridiculous to me anyway.

I know that Kawasaki designed that system to work well on the VN750. But, I do think that the modified intake (along with re-jetting) should help the bike run a little better throughout most of the RPM range.

Hopefully all goes well and I'm cruisin' with a little less ear and a little more throat this spring. :smiley_th
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,026 Posts
The reed valve setup can and should be removed. It's just gvt. garbage. I removed mine years ago. It causes the exhaust to run hotter by injecting air into the exhaust, to burn any remaining fuel that might have escaped being burned in the combustion chamber, and winds up in the exhaust. This is a bad idea. Not only does it cause the exhaust to run hotter, but burning the fuel in the exhaust also causes backfiring, especially on deceleration.

I agree that the air intake system is too complicated (just like the rest of the bike), but I don't know of any filters you can get that attach directly to the carb that filter anywhere near as well as the stock filters. Those filters are about the same as stretching pantyhose over a wire mesh frame. I used to use those filters back when I was into performance moped tuning. But in every single case, the engine always blew up from being overstressed before the dirt had a chance to do much damage. Anyway IF filters that matched the stock filters filtering ability were available, I'd probably do the earshave thing too, just to rid the bike of more complication. But I would keep the ears, because I like the way they look. I only wish you could get solid chrome covers for them, like the old BUBF 1500.

Oh yeah, there is one hose you will have to deal with, and that is the crankcase vent hose, connected to the front head. It is normally connected to the stock airbox, but if you remove the airbox, you will need to put some kind of filter on it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
33 Posts
Did mine per a write up on the forums, runs better, starts better and just all around feels better, I know all the people want to pro and con it to death but it was best move I made to the bike for me, cutting out that POS air box makes working on it ALOT easier as well.
 

·
Giggity!
Joined
·
4,307 Posts
If you're thinking about the ear shave, think about this version abyssdncr did.
I've personally done this as well & I love it. I opted for the slightly shorter in height filter & I didn't have to modify the cooling pipes at all.

I'm very please with the K&N's performance.

Click Me!

EDIT: Correction, Looks like I had the originator wrong. abyssdncr used the same filter I did but AceMcGyver first did this in 09.

Click Me!
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,026 Posts
I like the setup that AceMcgyver did, except that it still uses a K&N filter. I wonder if there is a real filter available that would fit like that? I would think a Briggs&Straton filter would work ok. I have both used and worked on a lot of lawn equipment with B&S engines, plus had a mini bike with one about 45 years ago. A lawnmower is used under about the same conditions as a dirt bike, and I have cleaned and reoiled hundreds, probably thousands of B&S filters. They would be completely caked with dirt on the outside, and totally clean on the inside. The secret is to use a LOT of oil on them, and clean and reoil them after every so many hours of service.
 

·
If only it had 6th gear..
Joined
·
1,100 Posts
I shaved mine and I run an under tank filter that I fabricated using a decent quality round air cleaner for a car. It was flexible enough to make it oval and fit nicely. No regrets.
 

·
Giggity!
Joined
·
4,307 Posts
Mmmm. Guess the proper response to that post is:

------------




KM
lol, I had wrote alot more but decided to delete it & leave it as it was.

Sometimes, man, it's just not worth it! lol :doh:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
19 Posts
I had the CA emissions removed from my '86, removed all of the stock air boxes, and went with a small K&N cone shaped filter on each side. I think it looks nice, is simple, and doesn't have any problems idling or running hard. I am having a problem at high speed when I am getting a strong cross wind. Not sure if the carb is venting? Anyone know?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,026 Posts
If you have any doubts about carb venting, remove the poorly designed oem setup, and run a separate hose from each carb down below the bike. That T fitting cuts the capacity of each carb vent hose in half.
 
1 - 17 of 17 Posts
Top