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Discussion Starter #1
Well yesterday i got stuck in traffic on the way to work. bout an hours worth of stop and go in 100 deg temps. the thermostat was showing the engine sitting just above the lil temp icon in the gauge the whole time. the moment traffic opened up, i gunned it(already late for work) but it just didnt go. i accelerated some, but not like it should. then 15 seconds later the engine cut out. pulled over gave her a look over, switched the fuel petcock to reserve then tried to start her after 15 mins and i got a small start and died again. ended up getting a tow job back to the apartment. For now i havent tested her to see where the problem lies, but deep down i know its a stator and maybe my r/r too. BTW mileage is at 9093 and oil change done at every 3k

This weekend i will start on the testing and break her down. I started to look over then engine and think while waiting for a tow(2.5 hrs in 103 heat is great :baby: ). I came up with a few ideas and wanted to bounce them off ya'll and see what ya think. This is my daily driver, and she needs to be as reliable as can be. I put on over 1000 miles a month.

Right now i have a stock of stock bike. I have a custom LED tail light in the works (still working on a circuit) that will reduce the total wattage of the tail down to 2 watts running, and 9 watts stop. i will also be switching out the turn signals to led as well.
Next on my list is exhaust. not sure if i should do a goat belly mod, cap the pipes and switch to a dyna muffler, or just swap out to a set of cruzers. I will also do a R/R move, and install a heatshield under the battery.
As i looked at the radiator i quickly realized, this is a single pass system, and the fan is horrible. A few ideas here. I plan to see if i can install a better fan maybe even larger, and set up a better suction system to get more air throught the radiator. I was also looking at installing an oil cooler to help get engine temps down.
My final idea comes directly at the stator. I plan to get mine rewound, using a larger gauge wire, and a better epoxy then was originally used. i also plan to see if i can modify it to get more heat moved to the stator cover, and install a heat sink onto the cover to move any extra heat.

Since i am a college student, money is a big thing. I know the heat sink and larger gauge rewind is in my price area along with the better fan and the goat belly mod. so lemme know what ya think might work. maybe we can get this problem solved once and for all....
 

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This is the wrong bike if you're gonna get stuck in traffic.

You in engineering? If so, and you've been there a while (or at least have some ME friends), talk to one of the thermodynamics instructors about this, or take your ideas to the students in the ME department. You might be the one that comes up with a solution to our problems!
 

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Dang it Hizzo3! I'm sorry to hear about your woes. I hope that's not what it is, but it sounds like you have some good ideas about bettering your situation if it is.
did you have an MF battery on the bike? I'm just curious. I guess I better get my RR relocated. This heat is rough.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
no i didnt, but i checked the water religiously....yeah get your r/r relocated.

Actually i am working on my electrical engineering deg. But on the flip side, i used to do high end PC's. I am talking Phase change cooling type. Water cooling was in there too. I think i may look into so heat pipes....those look promising with a copper (nickle chromed to keep with the silver color) heat sink.
 

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Another EE on the boards. Cool. Funny thing, I was looking at using a liquid intercooler for a PC to cool the incoming air to the cylinders. Nah, I've got enough work around the house...

Ferg - YOU CAN plug the tire. I had to do it on my original back tire, 'cause no fix it shop would do it. Don't know if you've ever tried, but it's REEEEL easy. I don't get flats on anything fixed anymore. Some say don't do it. But ya can...
 

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I plug tires all the time. My riding lawnmower tires look like they have gum stuck all over them. Just pulled a screw outa my truck tire last weekend and plugged it. But, you are the first person I've heard that said it's ok to plug a bike tire. Everyone else I know says don't do it.
 

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I drove on mine for about 10K miles before I had to replace the tire. I think when you do it yourself, you are more careful with the tire when riding.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
cegodsey said:
Another EE on the boards. Cool. Funny thing, I was looking at using a liquid intercooler for a PC to cool the incoming air to the cylinders. Nah, I've got enough work around the house...
Why? the air that is incoming is already from the outside....not like ur sucking in hot air like a car does.... you would be better off closing the intake hole on the "ears" (since ist sucking warm air off the cyl.) and putting a vented plastic where on the chrome side.

although you did give me an idea with the water cooling unit.....i could make a custom water block (i'll use aluminum and anodize it siver to match the block) and attach it to the stator cover, and tap into the return from the radiator....that should provide more then ample cooling... that mixed in with a fan upgrade......ohhh i like it already.

BTW anyone know how many turns to wind our stators??????
 

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Discussion Starter #10
oh and fergy, you can plug a tire no problem....
 

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Come on, Hizzo, I've got the same temps here that you have in Dallas. This air is hot enough to want some cooling.

Actually, the radiator tap thingy sounds like a good idea! Wait a minute, it'll have to be a thin block so you won't catch yer foot on fire.

Oh, and I'm thinking about putting a scoop on the side of the ear. When I get time...
 

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If you are going to plug a motorcycle tire, look for a mushroom plug which has to be installed from the inside of the tire - it should be much safer than other plugs
 

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Another note.. You can add Ride-On to your tires and not worry about nails.
Not Slime.. tire guys hate slime and it will corrode your rim. Ride-on does work though and no metal corrosion.
http://www.ride-on.com/prod_mot.asp
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Well i got to thinking while at work yesterday and that came across my mind. Then it dawned on me about the TOC stator mod. Some people claim it makes the stator not last as long cause it cant conduct heat to the rest of the engine well. Perfect!!! i dont wanna cool any more of the engine, just the stator. So here is my idear. Pull the stator cover off the toc mod, and make a custom water block to go in its place where the stator will mount. That way its getting direct cooling, and should stay pretty cool.... I'ma have a look at everything this weekend when i pull the engine and figure out how the water block sould be designed. I was thinking a 2 pass design so the water hookups are on the same side. i just need to do some math to figure out what the flow rate needs to be.......
 

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You might wanna know that there is a stator cover (the small cover) on eBay right now. Also, a stator from an 86 model. Dianna likes these old ones. Don't trust the link here in the forums - it doesn't give you all of the 750 parts up for auction.
 

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"Some people claim it makes the stator not last as long cause it cant conduct heat to the rest of the engine well."
That "some people" would be gypsy and that statement was not based on her experience with the TOC cover. It was based one her experience when she tried to modify the cover in a fashion based on the same concept as TOC's. I've seen her write-up and also know of the follow-up discussion between her and TOC Manufacturing.
There is a BIG difference between a home-brewed cut and paste and a carefully tooled and tested modification. I have had the TOC cover on mine for a year now. Red Baron has had his for two years. Both bikes WAY PAST the 400 mile over-heat that gypsy experienced with her mod.

Also as a side note.. the outer round cover stays the same. the larger inner cover is the one that is re-tooled with the TOC mod. That is why you have to tilt the engine to install the TOC cover. But it is also probably the last time you will have to tilt the engine. Definitely the last time you will have to for a stator replacement.
 

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Dianna, I'm glad you straightened that up. I've been leery of the TOC product because I thought it was the same as what Gypsy created. Now I'll definitely be buying one at my next stator change.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Ok so there are 2 covers? the main one which you have to move the engine to get to and the smaller round cover, which isnt big enought to get to the stator right? if that is the case, then i will make a water block to take the place of the smaller round cover. That is something i can get a machine shop to do.

Now my only other major question is rewinding it or do i get an electrix? since it is heat that kills our stator, and the "stator water block" will fix that, i now can pull more juice from it. How much more does the electrix produce? If i can find out how many turns per winding on our stators, then i can boost the output, without fear of failure.
I've also come to the conclusion that the stock fan which covers only about 60-75% of the radiator is poorly fitted. there is too much space, and the lack of a shroud means its pulling in air from the sides too. I will be looking at seeing if i can fit 2 fans, covering more of the radiator with more airflow. This with the waterblock system, MF battery, ACCT mod, and goat's belly or r/r relocation should make our bikes near mantinance free.
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
OK after much brain storming, web surfing, and looking at my bike. I've reached the final ideas for my bike.
After doing some quick numbers crunching, i realized no matter what i do, the stock liquid system isnt effective for temps above 80 degs in stop and go traffic. Resolution? add more cooling. Then it dawned on me on another thread about an oil cooling system the plugs and relocates the oil filter. Rather generic, i think i could get it to work. I plan to pull the goats belly, and place the radiator horizontally with a slight tilt to catch passing air. On the back side will be a fan that will be switched somehow (not done with that part, may just tap into the fan relay). I will run the line from the hot side from oil filter adaptor under the bike through a temp controled oil bypass valve(for winter riding) then to the radiator. From there the line will return to the bypass then to the custom water block (now oil block :p) and back into the oil filter adapor.

So far parts seem to be in the $200-$300 range, with the oil block unknown(will need to do a design, then contact a machine shop, est $100-$150 though). If all works well, we will have a bike that now can push 50k on a powered up stator. Will let ya'll know once i get parts in and the oil block designed. If it works, i will sell a few units at cost to get some road tests and then maybe open up for everyone once i know its safe and effective
 
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