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First, I really appreciate all the information that's on here and write-ups that have been done. I did the spline lube job Saturday and wasn't pleased at all. I guess everyone gets angry when they find that apparently no grease had been applied to the rear splines at the factory. The splines are worn but not quite as bad as some I've seen in photos here and on the yahoo forum. But bad enough to need to keep an eye out for replacement parts. Front splines were clean, no rust and looked great, although, I couldn't see any grease on them. They are greased well now with Honda Moly 60, and sprayed Honda white lithium grease all over the u-joint. Rear is packed with the called for amount of moly, and I used moly on the gear where the final drive meshes with the wheel gear (hope that's clear). The O-ring seemed flat, but wasn't cracked, so I left it in place, as I'll be back in there replacing it all soon enough. I cleaned and moly greased the axel shaft and put it all back together. It wasn't a huge job, and only took a couple hours. I feel better about it all, especially that it's so simple to do, considering that I'll be replacing the shaft and final drive as soon as I can find a used set in good shape.

I can't help but be a little angry that KAW let this and so many other bikes leave the factory without lube on the rear splines. When I pulled mine apart, I had a rust pile just like one of the photos I printed out that one of you shot of the procedure. Dry as a bone and caked with rust powder. I shop vac'd and used a small brush to clean it all before I started applying any lube.

I know it's beating a dead horse, but if you haven't checked your splines, for God's sake, it's not that hard and it is so important... Just go do it!

I was able to do all this with the center stand on a 2x12, didn't remove either exhaust (did loosen the right passenger footpeg to give me a little wiggle room with the right pipe) and removed my license plate to give ample room to remove the rear wheel, fully inflated. I did use a ratchet strap to strap my center stand to the front forks, and that worked fine. Once the wheel is back on, and before you install the bottom shock mounts, it hangs low enough to use the 27mm socket and torque wrench without the left pipe being in the way.

When I find a replacement shaft and final drive, I'll redo the writeup with photos of every step along the way.
 

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Did mine ('86) a couple of weeks ago. Rear end was lubed with something that looked more like old general grease. Front end clean and like factory-new but no trace of grease whatsoever, neither on the U-joint. Cleaned rear end and wheel- and final drive splines and lubed everything with Molykote (black sticky and very expensive stuff (about 47$ for 200 grams) with +65% moly, acording to dealer).
Did the ACCTs at the same time but that's another story.
 

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HAWK
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Automatic Cam Chain Tensioner
 
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