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Premium Member
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Out riding McKnight today - nice, cool day; r/r where it's getting plenty of air. Got about 2 miles from home and a funeral procession was coming by, and everyone pulled over. I decided to turn the bike off since...I don't know why, but I did. Wouldn't start back up. No gauge lights, no nothing. My partner rode home and picked up my multimeter - checked the battery and it was at 11.07 volts. :confused: Called AAA, just 'cause I have the coverage, but they didnt' seem to have a tow truck in the area that could handle a motorcycle. I finally drove back home, took the new r/r off of Orleans, her battery, and some jumper cables (since that battery hasn't been run). Got back to the bike, replaced the r/r and the battery, and with a jump she fired right up. Got home no problem, no thanks to AAA (but all kinds of thanks to the Forum - this time a year ago, I was sitting on a curb in Gettysburg for hours and hours and hours!). So despite the frustration, I'm feeling a little empowered.

But, here's my question/s:

1. Will a regulator just go kerplooey without any warning? I haven't hooked up my voltmeter on McKnight, but maybe I should do that now, just as one more lesson learned. But I've got an mF battery, new stator, relo'd r/r and it was a cool day where I wasn't running in stop-and-go traffic. ??

2. Is it possible that I've a power draw someplace that's causing the problem? Chad, I know you've posted this before, but my searches didn't bring it up - if I do an amp draw test on the fuses, what are the set-up conditions for that test? Ignition on? Off? (I"m assuming off) Negative to the negative battery terminal, positive to the fuse? And I'm looking for "leakage" when the bike's not on? How much leakage is too much?

[[the neg lead to the batt, then hook the neg from the meter to the batt and the positive to the neg cable on the harness. you want the meter set on Amp setting, so all the power goes through the meter.
Set to the highest Amp setting to start with.
Do not turn on the ignition or you may blow the fuse in the meter depending on the meter and the fuse.
I hope that helps.]]

Other thoughts? This was a used r/r from eBay, but previously it was testing fine (battery volts jumped to 14 at 3500-4000 rpm). And here I have my gremlin bell and everything!

All ideas welcome at this point...
 

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Giggity!
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4,307 Posts
I've just about got everything worked out and back together. Just need some new clamps for the exhaust heat shield. I modified
I haven't been anywhere but the gas station yet. Hopefully you bell's extending it's coverage this way since it wasn't covering you.
& hopefully it (R&R) was just done. Being used and all.
 

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HAWK
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2,576 Posts
Ok to do a basic draw test on the whole bike, this will tell you how much you are drawing.
Turn everything off remove the neg cable from the batt.

Set your meter to AMP not mAmp, put a lead on the neg post and the other to the neg cable.
You want the curnet to run through the bike.
It should be very low, in the mAmp settings. I dont have my meter here it is at work or I would give you exact #'s
Then you can try with the ignition on, make sure your meter can handel up to 10 Amp.
Keep the terminals on as discribed above, then turn on the ignition, Do not try and start.
If you have the LED board light the you will be about 3 Amps, if stock bulbs closer to 5 or 6Amps.
I hope this helps
 

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Premium Member
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Discussion Starter #5
Ok, so with no power "on", the current should be in the milliamps. With the ignition switch in the "on" position, I should just be getting the draw from the Clear Alternatives taililght and the gauge lights? I'll go check.

But that (a leak) is a possible source of the battery drain, right? I mean, it may not be my regulator? ('Cause a woman can only have so many spare moto parts around....)
 

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HAWK
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2,576 Posts
If you have a larger draw than you think you can start pulling fuses one at a time and see what causes the draw to drop.
Then you know what circuit to start looking at.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Ok, I think it's not a gremlin issue - thanks, Leonard! Apparently west coast bells work on east coast gremlins, too. Whew!

I ran the amp test and there was no leakage with the ignition switch in the 'off' position, and only 3.25 amps gone with the ignition in the 'on' position (LED taillight and gauge bulbs, I guess). Called Chad - my new hero - and he said, "Could be just a dirty connection." So I pulled the connector, cleaned it out, and have hooked it back up. Tested all 4 regulators that I have sitting in the garage, and all four - including the one that was on the bike during That Unfortunate Moment - tested fine dynamically (14+ volts with the rpms up).

Hooked up my voltmeter tonight, too - better late than never! Can't seem to get it to turn off/on with the ignition (those [email protected]#$ wires are very tiny for these old eyes!), but the draw is reportedly very low (.5m amps), so it shouldn't make anything go south that hasn't already gone there.
 

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Premium Member
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Discussion Starter #10
Wouldnt that sound like a stator going bad when it is hot?
It would, except that the stator tested fine (and I just replaced it, so perish that thought!), the regulators all tested fine, and - the coup de grace - the battery that had been on McKnight refused to recharge when I had it on the trickle charger in the garage. I think the battery's shot. It's about 5 years old, so I guess that's not a surprise.
 
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