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Discussion Starter #1
Just got done replacing the stator with a rewound one from TPE. Also was given a free RR and just the other day went out and got a brand new AGM battery. Rode fine yesterday and today the battery was dead. Help me understand how to test my components. I want to follow these instructions but not sure what setting my meter should be on.

http://www.scribd.com/doc/88523705/VN750-Charing-System-TS-Guide

Here is my meter. Please tell me what I should have it turned on for.

http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl...=3VyJUeX3J4jx4QSpo4AQ&ved=0CD0Q9QEwAg&dur=211
 

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Prowling Tiger
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When checking between R/R and stator, set meter to AC voltage. Anything after R/R, use DC voltage.

EDIT: In your pic, the V with wavey live is AC. The other V is DC.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
so this step:

Stator Resistance From Stator Side wiring Connectors:
Leg A1-A2 _____Ω 0.34-0.52 ΩLeg A1-A3_____Ω 0.34-0.52 ΩLeg A2-A1_____Ω 0.34-0.52 ΩLeg A2-A3_____Ω 0.34-0.52 ΩLeg A3-A2_____Ω 0.34-0.52 ΩLeg A3_A1_____Ω 0.34-0.52 ΩLeg A1-Ground_____Ω OLLeg A2-Ground_____Ω OLLeg A3-Ground_____Ω OL

I would use the DC at 20?
 

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Prowling Tiger
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so this step:

Stator Resistance From Stator Side wiring Connectors:
Leg A1-A2 _____Ω 0.34-0.52 ΩLeg A1-A3_____Ω 0.34-0.52 ΩLeg A2-A1_____Ω 0.34-0.52 ΩLeg A2-A3_____Ω 0.34-0.52 ΩLeg A3-A2_____Ω 0.34-0.52 ΩLeg A3_A1_____Ω 0.34-0.52 ΩLeg A1-Ground_____Ω OLLeg A2-Ground_____Ω OLLeg A3-Ground_____Ω OL

I would use the DC at 20?
No. Those are measured in Ohms. Use the settings on right side under the OMEGA symbol (Looks like on O with bottom split open). With those low values, select 200. BUT, it doesn't look like your meter can read decimal points; so, you may not be able to read anything under 1.
 

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Just got done replacing the stator with a rewound one from TPE. Also was given a free RR and just the other day went out and got a brand new AGM battery. Rode fine yesterday and today the battery was dead. Help me understand how to test my components. I want to follow these instructions but not sure what setting my meter should be on.

http://www.scribd.com/doc/88523705/VN750-Charing-System-TS-Guide

Here is my meter. Please tell me what I should have it turned on for.

http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl...=3VyJUeX3J4jx4QSpo4AQ&ved=0CD0Q9QEwAg&dur=211
read this
http://www.vn750.com/forum/showthread.php?t=24093

and set meter accordingly ,the advice you have been given on your meter and this guide should get your answer for you
 

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Type your meter type in YouTube, there is a few videos to help you understand your meter. Multimeters check the different Characteristics of electricity.
A/C voltage, D/C voltage and resistance(ohms). Google them to help you understand.
For example when using your meter for D/C set the dial to the lowest dc setting that will measure the voltage your checking. For 12vdc set it to 20

When your bike is running the stator creates A/C voltage and supplies this voltage to the R/R. The R/R changes this voltage to D/C to keep the battery charged and operate the bikes electrical system.

Start with a fully charged battery, remove your seat to access the battery. Start the bike have a friend rev it up to about 3000 rpm. Set your meter to DC (20). And check the voltage at the battery should be 14-15 VDC. That's the first check I would do, that or check for the stator leads resistance to the bike frame ( a good ground).

I've read advice on here that if you have a defective stator you should replace the stator and the R/R. That's what I did when my stator went out. Hope I wasn't to winded or made it sound insulting. keep us informed.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I have my rr unplugged right now and when I go to plug it in with the bike running the bike seems to loose power idling quickly unplug it and the bike seems to get louder. I do see one of the terminals is burnt on the plug.

Stator at idle is at 40vac and when reving it it jumps upwards i have seen 90vac all leads seem to be about the same. I don't think my meter can check the ohms that low.
 

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It's not a good idea to connect/disconnect electronics with the power on/engine running.

Have you tested the R/R with it disconnected?

Sounds like the stator output is good.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I had the RR unplugged and tested right off the bullet connection of the stator. But I think this is the bad news, With my meter set to 200 ohms I got 00.8 off each leg of the stator with the bike off.
 

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I'm a bit confused you only mentioned measuring voltage then u mention your meter not measuring ohms that low??? It does sound like the stator output is ok. 90 Volts AC with the motor revved up.
Your multimeter is just fine for what we need it for as long as its working properly and the leads are ok.
Try this, set your meter to an omhs setting I would use 200 since that's what you should be setting it for when checking the bike. You should always touch the meter leads together to make sure there good. Touching them together creates a short, look at the display and you can see what a dead SHORT looks like. Keep in mind all wires will have some resistance. Seperated the leads look at the display and that's what an OPEN condition looks like.
What wire in the connector is burnt? This could be an important issue having a burned up wire.
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
The battery pin, white wire. I thought that 200 was still too high to measure. I'll short out the meter and see what it looks like.

with the meter leads not touching it shows a 1 to the far left. when touching them I get 00.1
 

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Some info for you , you cannot check for resistance of the stator with the bike running. In fact you should not check the resistance of any wire with voltage present.
Disconnecting the bullet connectors and checking the resistance between the wires you should have a short (continuity) 3-5 ohms between them all, that's because the 3 legs of wires in a properly wound stator are connected together in the windings. Now if everything is correct you should NOT have any continuity (open) between the wires and the frame (ground).
Some info, don't use the painted part of the frame, the negative post of the battery is a good ground. Thats if the connection of the negative battery wire to the frame is clean.
Just seen your last post. So if you check the resistance from the stator wires to ground you should get a 1 as if your meter leads were not touching.
Setting your meter to 200 does not mean your reading 200 ohms. It's a 200 ohms scale. The highest you should try to read on that scale is 200 ohms. Since all your readings should be less then that 200 is the proper setting since its the lowest setting on your meter.
Another example, this is for reading voltage. If you know your checking for 28 VDC then setting your meter to 20 would be incorrect you would set the meter to the higher scale closest to 20
 

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If you don't have the exact setting, don't try to match the specific readings, but show us if the R/R has a fair amount of ohms resistance where it's supposed to, and zero in the tests where it should be.

On the stator, if you're getting 0.01 between the disconnected stator leads... That's shorted to ground, right guys?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
But seeing how mine read 00.8 is that fine? Are you asking me to run another ohm test with the negative lead to the battery and the positive on each leg?
 

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NO, I was just saying that a good ground to use would be the negative battery post, since it's connected to the frame, electrically it's the same. I'f your getting .08 ohms between each of the stator leads that's GOOD. If you check each stator lead to ground you should get the same reading as if the meter leads were not touching, I believe you said you get a 1 in the display, that doesn't mean 1 ohm it's just how your meter shows a complete open or infinity as us electricians call it.
Read my previous post, where overlapping a bit, don't want you to miss something I said.
If your battery wire is fried I would think that's most of your problem. From the testimonials I've read on here I would think that a TPE wound stator would be good, not saying it can't be the problem but I doubt it
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I went ahead and tested the stator leads to the battery and it showed up the same as if my leads were not touching. With my reading of .08 its higher then the spec of .03 -.05 is that because of the way TPE does theirs?

I think that wire happened after I first replaced my regulator the first time. Tomorrow I can do the test for the A3-Bat________Ω 200~600 Ω. Would my meter have to be set for 2000?

It may be the better option to get the mosfet regulator which eliminates the stock harness regardless of what the RR test shows up since it doesn't appear that my stator is grounding out and is outputting decent #'s.
 

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Old Truck Junkie
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Have you checked the battery volts while bike engine is running? Set meter at 20 dc v and connect to + side and ground. Rev engine to 4k and see if you get around 14 volts on meter.
 

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To answer your first question. In regards to the stator when checking the wires to each other .08 is perfect. 03 .05 .08 is practically the same. If you are getting the reading checking the stator wires to ground as if your meter leads are not touching together then your stator is I would say is good.

Your second point, I don't understand what what A3-batt means. Unless your talking about reading inside your RR. But if your suppose to have 200-600 ohms and the next higher scale above 600 is 2000 then 2000 is correct.

As far as getting a new RR, that's what I did when my stator went bad. With the MOSFET cut the battery wires and the brown wire at the RR connector tape them up separately. I removed some of the wire harness tape folded the wires into the harness and re taped them. I cut the stator wires (yellow wires) at the RR connector and put the new terminals on at that point. There is a wire spliced to one of the stator wires in the wire harness. This wire goes to the headlight relay to operate the headlight when the bike is running. This is no big deal unless you take the stator wires directly to the new RR. I used the original stator wires and plugged my new RR into the bullet connectors. I eventually removed the bullet connectors and soldered the wires, had a bit of trouble getting the wires soldered due to corrosion however.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Battery sometimes goes to 13 but most of the times it dips down to 11 or 10 volts and then back to 12. I did see a few times it hit 14 but its not often.

If soldering the stator wires to the R/R, if you would need to replace the stator you would have to cut it off the bike then? Wouldn't it be easier to get a 3 pin connector that clicks together like some of the other plugs?
 
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