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Discussion Starter #1
Bought a new Mosfet kit replaced the nasty looking wiring from stator to plug
nice new yellow 12 gauge wire with soldered and shrink wrapped connections. Tested with meter 12.2 volts running 12.5 when I rev to 3000 rpm. So I followed the stator test guide lines here are the readings as follows. a1 to g .5 ohms, a2 to g .2 ohms, a3 to g .5 hhms. a1 to a2 .4 ohms, a1 to a3 .4 ohms, a2 to a3 .4 ohms. Next test was done with meter set to ac volts. a1 51.9 volts, a2 50.5 volts, a3 52.3 volts. Voltmeter shows no charge.

Any suggestions?
 

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Chasin' the blacktop
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I'm no expert on this but I do know that at 3000 rpm your Mosfet should be putting out over 13.5v and probably well over 14v. Your input voltages from the stator look good but with voltages under 13v your battery isn't going to get a good charge not to mention your lights will be slightly dimmed. I'd suspect a bad Mosfet.
 

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The output of the mosfet R/R should bypass the wiring harness and go directly to the battery.

You didn't specify how you wired the output, but if it goes through the harness, you are losing voltage in a worn harness someplace.

You should be getting almost 14 volts at idle and 15 volts at higher RPM with the Mosfet R/R.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Mosfet Wiring

I bought the Roadster cycle kit wired directly to battery with a harness that looks like it would work on a car! Ran three new wires from stator to new plug with soldered and shrink rapped connections. I did use the yellow headlamp wire from the junction box and wired it to one leg of the stator. Headlamp does come on after bike starts.:doh:
 

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I just got done doing mine and she is charing not all the time I see 14 at idle but its quick to stay around 13.5ish. I did the headlight relay bypass. Cut out the old stock harness that was used to connect the stator and the stock RR. Spliced the stator leads directly to the RR. And then of course from the RR to the battery.
 

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Did everyone miss what the first readings he stated were, if the stator wires are shorted to ground, the stator is bad. Unless one of the stator wires in the harness is grounded. Did you take the stator readings from where the bullet connectors were?
If your getting .5 ohms to ground from the stator wires, that's not correct.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I replace the stator wires all the way back to the stator with new 12 gauge wiring all connections soldered. While I dont think 50 -53 volts ac on all 3 legs is great it was charging b4 the r/r upgrade. I have since disconnected the yellow lead from the stator wire to the junction box. It is now charging again at 13.5 volts. So it appears the problem is in the junction box with the headlamp relay.
 

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Did you do the bypass with the blue wire and see how it charges?

The blue wire gets moved to the empty hole in the same plug. Find the sticky post on it and verify the details, not trusting myself this morning.

Edit: Had to look it up so I can double check where I'm at with mine, so here it is, just hitting the high spots:

If the headlight relay is the culprit, there is an easy (and free)
repair you can do to bypass the relay. This will make the headlight
come on when you turn on the key, instead of when the engine starts.
There are 2 plugs going into your junction box (where the fuses are);
one is a 10 pin connector, the other is an 8 pin connector. Unplug
the 8 pin connector. There are only 7 wires going to this plug, so
one of the holes is empty. Move the blue wire to that empty hole and
plug it back in to the junction box. Now when you turn the key on the
headlight comes on.
********
***********************
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Did the relay bypass as per instructions. No difference. Stator shows 14 volts at 3500 rpm
then I reconnect headlamp circuit and no charge down to battery voltage 12.8 volts Headlight is good and bright, even took the RLD out and bypassed that no difference. The only thing I can figure is the stator is weak. I figure after 20 years I will bite the bullet...
Tim Parrott said about a week turn around time.
 
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