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Another cam chain tensioner question

842 Views 69 Replies 11 Participants Last post by  K-code
My Vulcan 750 is all stock and has the ticking sound that indicates that the cam chains have too much slack in them. I'm thinking of changing to MCCT but have a couple of questions.
Just what is the problem with the stock automatic cam chain tensioners? Is the spring inside them too weak or is the adjuster too short to take up the amount of slack in the chain or is it a combination of them?
Also I see manual cam chain tensioners priced from $20 to over $50 each. I don't see any difference between the high priced vs the lower priced ones. Can someone let me know if I'm missing something about them?
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Unified communications. Collaboration tools like webex, zoom, etc
Unified communications. Collaboration tools like webex, zoom, etc
Oh, gotcha!

I'm genuinely surprised that you haven't pursued something that allows working from home. But, I'm venturing into off-topic territory.. (Par for the course around here...)

So how about those cam-chain tensioners? Pain in the butt? Amiright? Let's hear it for roller-skates, ladies and gentlemen! No muss, no fuss!
Oh, gotcha!

I'm genuinely surprised that you haven't pursued something that allows working from home. But, I'm venturing into off-topic territory.. (Par for the course around here...)

So how about those cam-chain tensioners? Pain in the butt? Amiright? Let's hear it for roller-skates, ladies and gentlemen! No muss, no fuss!
I’ve been home basically since the start of the pandemic. I was one of the few that went to the office when we were allowed to return but it was a ghost town. I’m tired of being home, the hybrid 2-3 days a week in the office would be ideal. I need scenery changes. Plus it’s a lucrative field, I smell college on the horizon so I’ll chase the $ for now. 😉
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This is the direction that I went to fix the weak ACCTs that were making the knock knock racket upon cold start up.
I ordered the inexpensive MCCTs from e-bay and installed them today. The installation went as expected with the exception of what someone mentioned earlier about the long adjustment bolt interfering with the coolant reservior. The bolt is so long that it keeps the coolant tank from being able to return to it's possition.
My solution was to shorten the bolt. After the MCCT was installed and adjusted I took a hacksaw to the threaded portion of the bolt. (I love it when a hacksaw is involved in a repair!) I removed enough of the bolt to ensure the reservior could fit back in it's space. I decided that if I need to adjust the MCCT in the future that I could use pliers or chanel locks or vice grips to rotate the adjustment shaft. Or I could dremel a slot in the back of the threaded portion and use a screw driver to adjust it. Or, since the nut on the end of the adjustment bolt is pinned on, I could drift out the pin, drill a hole in the threaded shaft and pin the nut on the shaft that remains. Like it came.

In any case the engine starts up smooth and quiet, like a Vulcan should.
The repair was fairly easy and I would recommend it to anyone who is currently putting up with the knocking of loose cam chains.

This is the length of the adjusting bolt that I removed.
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This is the direction that I went to fix the weak ACCTs that were making the knock knock racket upon cold start up.
I ordered the inexpensive MCCTs from e-bay and installed them today. The installation went as expected with the exception of what someone mentioned earlier about the long adjustment bolt interfering with the coolant reservior. The bolt is so long that it keeps the coolant tank from being able to return to it's possition.
My solution was to shorten the bolt. After the MCCT was installed and adjusted I took a hacksaw to the threaded portion of the bolt. (I love it when a hacksaw is involved in a repair!) I removed enough of the bolt to ensure the reservior could fit back in it's space. I decided that if I need to adjust the MCCT in the future that I could use pliers or chanel locks or vice grips to rotate the adjustment shaft. Or I could dremel a slot in the back of the threaded portion and use a screw driver to adjust it. Or, since the nut on the end of the adjustment bolt is pinned on, I could drift out the pin, drill a hole in the threaded shaft and pin the nut on the shaft that remains. Like it came.

In any case the engine starts up smooth and quiet, like a Vulcan should.
The repair was fairly easy and I would recommend it to anyone who is currently putting up with the knocking of loose cam chains.
View attachment 56576
This is the length of the adjusting bolt that I removed.
Nicely done!
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This is the direction that I went to fix the weak ACCTs that were making the knock knock racket upon cold start up.
I ordered the inexpensive MCCTs from e-bay.
Would you post a link to the item? Thanks.
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Cam Chain Tensioner For Kawasaki Vulcan 750 VN750A 86-06 Yamaha YZ/WR 250 450



Condition:
NewNew

Compatibility:
See compatible vehicles
Quantity:

More than 10 available / 37 sold


Price:
US $19.98
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Thanks! Interesting setup
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My solution was to shorten the bolt. After the MCCT was installed and adjusted I took a hacksaw to the threaded portion of the bolt. (I love it when a hacksaw is involved in a repair!) I removed enough of the bolt to ensure the reservior could fit back in it's space. I decided that if I need to adjust the MCCT in the future that I could use pliers or chanel locks or vice grips to rotate the adjustment shaft. Or I could dremel a slot in the back of the threaded portion and use a screw driver to adjust it. Or, since the nut on the end of the adjustment bolt is pinned on, I could drift out the pin, drill a hole in the threaded shaft and pin the nut on the shaft that remains. Like it came.
Here's what I did with the ones I bought like yours. Shown here is the front cyl (just cuz it was easier to photograph), but I did the same on both so they'd match.

It's just a chromed acorn nut from the hardware store that I applied over the shortened bolt end with some loctite. I figured if that didn't hold, I could use JB Weld instead but the loctite has worked fine so far.

I also added some high-temp pipe dope to the threads as they pass through the aluminum piece. They tended to seep a bit of oil, especially on the rear cyl.

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Nice! I suppose a nut with a jam nut on top would work the same but not look as good as your solution.
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