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1980 vulcan750
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Those ugly big aircleaners on either side of the bike ruin the looks.any way to get rid of them and put something better on. The bike is oldschool.i am too. I look forward to bringing it back to life
 

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Search in the “Vulcan Verses” section of the forum and look for the “ear shave” procedure, this removes the stock air filters and the air box under the gas tank and replaces them with pod filters, this could change your air intake and also require you to rejet the carbs.
I haven’t seen anyone just replace the filters on the stock air intake.
 

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1980 vulcan750
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I saw the multiple threads on ear shave.no way im going pods. I didnt know where to look. Thanks for your response
 

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While I am not a believer in the earshave thing (I absolutely love the old school look. I wish I could find a 1985 gas tank and side covers for my '97 ) oiled foam filters are probably 100 times better at stopping dirt and not leaning out the mixture than those K&Ns or K&N copies. But look at the back of the air cleaner housings. Notice they only have a very small square hole for air to get through on the back, and those have a snorkel in them. The purpose of that design is to control the amount of airflow into the intake. Mine runs perfectly with the stock air intake system (minus the CA emissions garbage) and stock exhaust.

If you want to make an old bike look new, just soak every single part in matte black paint. That seems to be all you can get now. Even the Europeans have gotten in on the YABOB (Yet Another Blacked Out Bike) fad. Ride that old school bike with pride.
 
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1980 vulcan750
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
While I am not a believer in the earshave thing (I absolutely love the old school look. I wish I could find a 1985 gas tank and side covers for my '97 ) oiled foam filters are probably 100 times better at stopping dirt and not leaning out the mixture than those K&Ns or K&N copies. But look at the back of the air cleaner housings. Notice they only have a very small square hole for air to get through on the back, and those have a snorkel in them. The purpose of that design is to control the amount of airflow into the intake. Mine runs perfectly with the stock air intake system (minus the CA emissions garbage) and stock exhaust.

If you want to make an old bike look new, just soak every single part in matte black paint. That seems to be all you can get now. Even the Europeans have gotten in on the YABOB (Yet Another Blacked Out Bike) fad. Ride that old school bike with pride.
I am leaving the ugly filters. And the ugly seat. I went to HAAS museum yesterday. So i am going completely stock now.
 

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1980 vulcan750
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
My bike had the tool case missing.i have found them online $60. But it looks like a key operated device unlocks the case once its installed. I see a exploded drawing of the part.but how does opening that toolbox have anything to do with releasing the seat? Is there a cable i am missing also? I want it stock. I know i could get a profiler seat or vulcan 900 seat and change the look but i want stock.and what lock do i get to put in the tool case hole.the replacement compartments just have a hole. I can hardly wait till i get new tires so i can ride.
 

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I have the extended backrest, which holds the seat in place. I don't use the seat bolts. I have ridden Vulcan 750s well over 100K miles that way with no problem. I had to replace two of those toolbox covers. You can only open and close them so many times before they break off. Looks like a toy from the dollar store. One of the worst designs I've ever seen. They could have at least put some kind of hinge on it.
 
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My seat moved the one time I had the bolts out so I’d recommend keeping at least one in. As far as the toolbox, the stock door is total junk. After it broke I replaced the door with aluminum sheet metal and brazed some aluminum hinges on it, reused the key/lock and reflector.
E90D89E4-7A29-4276-93F8-40E325AA1A22.jpeg
 

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The stock tool box lid is junk and that looks nice. Good job. The extended seat back keeps the seat in because it sits under the upper pad. I have left mine loose if I am messing around tuning it and no one is the wiser.

All new riders o need to read the Vulcan Verses as there is a lot of information on how to prepare the bike for regular use (I wish someone had secured my end caps in place before I got the bike. The lid is addressed there also.
 
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1980 vulcan750
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I have the extended backrest, which holds the seat in place. I don't use the seat bolts. I have ridden Vulcan 750s well over 100K miles that way with no problem. I had to replace two of those toolbox covers. You can only open and close them so many times before they break off. Looks like a toy from the dollar store. One of the worst designs I've ever seen. They could have at least put some kind of hinge on it.
Well then i dont think i will be blowing 60 bucks on it.
 

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The seat WILL move if you don't have the extended backrest. Squeezing the back of the seat under the extended backrest pad holds it securely in place. The problem with bolts is that you have to open the tool box door to get to them, and after a few times doing that it will break off. I NEVER open mine. It's just for looks. If you don't have an extended backrest, it might be possible to make 2 round holes in the toolbox door, maybe use Allen head bolts as the head is smaller in diameter. Then get some black plastic snap in plugs to put in them. I also have the genuine Kawasaki saddlebags, saddlebag mounting brackets/turn signal relocators, and luggage rack. Unlike just about everybody here, I have bought two brand new Vulcan 750s, the last one I spent over $1K in Kawasaki accessories on.

 

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1980 vulcan750
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
The seat WILL move if you don't have the extended backrest. Squeezing the back of the seat under the extended backrest pad holds it securely in place. The problem with bolts is that you have to open the tool box door to get to them, and after a few times doing that it will break off. I NEVER open mine. It's just for looks. If you don't have an extended backrest, it might be possible to make 2 round holes in the toolbox door, maybe use Allen head bolts as the head is smaller in diameter. Then get some black plastic snap in plugs to put in them. I also have the genuine Kawasaki saddlebags, saddlebag mounting brackets/turn signal relocators, and luggage rack. Unlike just about everybody here, I have bought two brand new Vulcan 750s, the last one I spent over $1K in Kawasaki accessories on.

I love your setup. The "genuine kawasaki" bags- are those still made? And like a sportster the signals and shocks make mounting bags a problem.the relocation kit is a kawasaki item thats likely nonexistant now i am guessing. I love your setup. I also owned an 800 and 900. I like the ugly duckling 750 better. I need a stock seat and found one on ebay.i hate the button tuft thing but i want to keep the bike stock.the nonstock change is going to be the toolcase issue.several here talk about how flimsy it is.i do have the extended backrest.i believe that was standard on the bike.
 

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FREEBIRDS MC CENTRAL NY
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Prior to what people believe, a properly maintained and OILED K&N pod filter will not harm your engine. I ran my Vulcan hard for over 5 years through four seasons of Central New York weather. The bike has been sitting now for a few years. I checked the compression on both cylinders this spring and both are at 150 psi.

Sent from my A501DL using Tapatalk
 

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1980 vulcan750
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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Prior to what people believe, a properly maintained and OILED K&N pod filter will not harm your engine. I ran my Vulcan hard for over 5 years through four seasons of Central New York weather. The bike has been sitting now for a few years. I checked the compression on both cylinders this spring and both are at 150 psi.

Sent from my A501DL using Tapatalk
My experience with pods is based on numerous inline 4 cylinder jap bikes.its near impossible to get one jetted right with pods.just curious weather here varies from 0 degrees in winter to 115 above in summer.we have about 10 months of warm weather.how does that compare to new york.
 

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FREEBIRDS MC CENTRAL NY
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My experience with pods is based on numerous inline 4 cylinder jap bikes.its near impossible to get one jetted right with pods.just curious weather here varies from 0 degrees in winter to 115 above in summer.we have about 10 months of warm weather.how does that compare to new york.
The carbs on the four cylinders need the airbox for vacuum to open up the throttle slides. A lot of people drill the slides or put softer return springs inside the slides to compensate for the lack of vacuum. The vn750 doesn't have this problem. Jet them accordingly and they run great. Mine will pull a bike length on a solid mounted 1200 Sportster up to 100 mph. Up here in NY, it warms up in late April/May and cools off late September. We have a saying. "If you don't like the weather, don't worry it will change" we get hot, cold, rain, snow,sleet, freezing rain, hail, mud, dust, you name it

Sent from my A501DL using Tapatalk
 
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