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Into the Darkness
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272 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
There's a couple of threads on here on how to convert a ACCT to a MCCT. I know one members said he'd get a video put up here, but I went ahead and did a video of the MCCT I created.

Supplies needed:
  1. 6mm x 40 bolt
  2. 2 6mm nuts
  3. 1 6mm Locking Washer
  4. 1 #12 x 5/8 bonded washer
Parts not needed:
  1. Sleeve
  2. Spring
  3. Flat Washer
I did this on my bike yesterday to the rear cylinder and front cylinder, and they both quit knocking after the conversion. I took the front one off to do this video. I love that we are able to do this conversion.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gY4IEHVqtoY
 

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Premium Member
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1,803 Posts
Nice vid, Thanks. I'll be doing mine tomorrow.
 

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Concert connoisseur
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2,231 Posts
I was gonna do the vid when I did my rear one but havent had the chance yet, any problems with clearance of the coolant bottle when you did the rear?
 

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Into the Darkness
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272 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
I was gonna do the vid when I did my rear one but havent had the chance yet, any problems with clearance of the coolant bottle when you did the rear?
I know you were going to do the video, but I had to redo my front one so I just decided to throw a video together really quickly.

There was no serious problem with clearance of the coolant bottle on the rear. I just had to angle the bottle a little bit to get it to screw back in with the bolt in the area where the rear brake cable goes. I'll take some pictures of my rear MCCT here in a little bit and post them on here. I might do a video as well on how I had to get my bottle set in place and everything, but it takes about 3 hours for my videos to upload to youtube cause of the size of them and everything.

I do want to thank you for your topic on the ACCT to MCCT conversion. I didn't use the larger bonded washer on my conversion, and have no problems with leaks. The whole conversion for both sides cost me $4.24 total, but the bolts aren't chrome plated either. Between your post on how to do it, and this post with the video should be easy for everyone to see how it's done.

I might do a video as well on how to adjust the MCCT cause if you tighten it to much it will put WAY TO MUCH tension on the cam chain and cause the engine to die, and impossible to start back up.
 

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Premium Member
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120 Posts
Outstanding video - thank you!

Quickie question though, I had an APE Racing MCCT on my old KZ1100 and it only used one lock nut. Why the use of two + the split washer?
 

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Into the Darkness
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272 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Outstanding video - thank you!

Quickie question though, I had an APE Racing MCCT on my old KZ1100 and it only used one lock nut. Why the use of two + the split washer?
I only have the lock washer the 2 nuts are just 2 regular nuts, and the lock washer is just to make sure they nuts lock together and not move. It's what I could find at the local hardware store. It works perfectly.
 

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Premium Member
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120 Posts
I only have the lock washer the 2 nuts are just 2 regular nuts, and the lock washer is just to make sure they nuts lock together and not move. It's what I could find at the local hardware store. It works perfectly.
Gotcha, and I'm pretty sure I understand what you did - question is whether there was a reason to not just use one nut and jam it against the tensioner body to lock everything down allowing the use of a smaller bolt.

My old tensioner just had the one nut, so the extra nut and split washer got me curious...
 

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Into the Darkness
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272 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Gotcha, and I'm pretty sure I understand what you did - question is whether there was a reason to not just use one nut and jam it against the tensioner body to lock everything down allowing the use of a smaller bolt.

My old tensioner just had the one nut, so the extra nut and split washer got me curious...
I used the basic parts that the poster in my signature for the ACCT-MCCT conversion used. With the bolt that is being used extends the tensioner out all the way, and has a small amount of room left for the 2 nuts and washer. It works perfectly for me the way I got it set up, and didn't cost me all that much money to do it. People are welcome to try other items to make these.

Outstanding. I always wanted to know how the insides looked; especially the plunger. I couldn't quite understand the past post on this; "what had to go; what additions; etc.." I now have a better picture on what the fuss was all about.

My knocking goes away once the engine is warmed. I guess the only reason for me to look into mine is because of prior leak (rear) splatters, and stripped (front) top screw which is presently being held leak-proof and tight with RTV. Ride safe.
Click on the ACCT to MCCT link in my signature. The member that posted that link can give a excellent description and pictures on what isn't needed anymore. I just threw the video together for it.
 

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Concert connoisseur
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2,231 Posts
Outstanding video - thank you!

Quickie question though, I had an APE Racing MCCT on my old KZ1100 and it only used one lock nut. Why the use of two + the split washer?
I used two nuts because the body and threads of the stock acct are soft and very easily stripped, (I found this out the hard way replacing the springs a couple years ago, thanks again crobins for bailing me out on that one cheap!). using two nuts will let you lock it in place without putting too much stress on the threads.

And thanks for the credit in your sig link netmatrix!
 

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Premium Member
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120 Posts
I used two nuts because the body and threads of the stock acct are soft and very easily stripped, (I found this out the hard way replacing the springs a couple years ago, thanks again crobins for bailing me out on that one cheap!). using two nuts will let you lock it in place without putting too much stress on the threads.

And thanks for the credit in your sig link netmatrix!
Thanks for chiming in. Maybe I'm over thinking it, but hear me out... The purpose of the lock nut is to keep the screw from backing out, which is dependent on the amount friction between the locknut & the ACCT body. The second lock nut, regardless of how tight it's wedged into the first locknut, has no bearing on the amount of friction between the first one & the body...and thus no net affect on the overall installation.

With that in mind, I did the MCCT conversion tonight with 30mm long 6mmx1.0 hex head screws tonight and only takes about half an hour start to finish. I say takes vs. took, as I initially used 35mm long allen head button screws for aesthetics, but it was too long and got in the way of the overflow tank going back in. Swapped to the 30mm hex head so the tank would fit and I wouldn't have to wedge a dang allen wrench into that tight space on the rear cylinder.

So far (all of 4 miles...), it's working great and muted the engine rattles beyond what the OEM ACCT was doing.

Many thanks to both of you for your ingenuity and input!!! :smiley_th
 

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Into the Darkness
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272 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
I used two nuts because the body and threads of the stock acct are soft and very easily stripped, (I found this out the hard way replacing the springs a couple years ago, thanks again crobins for bailing me out on that one cheap!). using two nuts will let you lock it in place without putting too much stress on the threads.

And thanks for the credit in your sig link netmatrix!
No problem wib. If it wasn't for seeing your thread I wouldn't have known how to do the conversion, and I made that video to help it out a little.

Thanks for chiming in. Maybe I'm over thinking it, but hear me out... The purpose of the lock nut is to keep the screw from backing out, which is dependent on the amount friction between the locknut & the ACCT body. The second lock nut, regardless of how tight it's wedged into the first locknut, has no bearing on the amount of friction between the first one & the body...and thus no net affect on the overall installation.

With that in mind, I did the MCCT conversion tonight with 30mm long 6mmx1.0 hex head screws tonight and only takes about half an hour start to finish. I say takes vs. took, as I initially used 35mm long allen head button screws for aesthetics, but it was too long and got in the way of the overflow tank going back in. Swapped to the 30mm hex head so the tank would fit and I wouldn't have to wedge a dang allen wrench into that tight space on the rear cylinder.

So far (all of 4 miles...), it's working great and muted the engine rattles beyond what the OEM ACCT was doing.

Many thanks to both of you for your ingenuity and input!!! :smiley_th
I got the 40mm bolt on front and rear MCCT's, and there's no problem with the over flow tank. Just have to play with it a little bit and all. I had pics of it, but my computer took a crap and I lost everything I had on here including those. My bike is in the shop now getting the motor fixed so I can't do the pictures of it right now till I get it back next month of the rear MCCT.
 

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Premium Member
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3,027 Posts
It works, but I still recommend the TOC tensioners. Converting the ACCTs to MCCTs still uses the weak cast aluminum oem tensioner body, and aluminum threads. The TOC tensioners use a larger bolt, and everything is solid machined steel. Think about what will happen to your engine if that oem aluminum casting breaks.

Cool AC/DC shirt BTW. Guess not everybody has gone rapcrap
 

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Sparky!!!
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8,697 Posts
I agree with Jerry on this one. The TOC MCCTs are the way to go. And this is coming from a guy who would rather build something than through money at it.
 

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Registered
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6 Posts
Great video and instructions! I did the conversion to my 750...at first I had it too tight and bike wouldn't start, but lossened bolt and bike started like normal with NO knock. Thanks!
 

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Prowling Tiger
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2,048 Posts
I agree with Jerry on this one. The TOC MCCTs are the way to go. And this is coming from a guy who would rather build something than through money at it.
X2! I tried converting my accts to mccts and they failed. TOCs are definitely top notch in design and quality!
 

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Registered
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35 Posts
I think I may have an ACCT problem... A fellow member said there is a way to test them called the "grambo" and there may be a video here as well...I'm new here can anyone help me out?..... Thanks....And thank you for the dx sparkingdog
 

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Linkmeister Supreme
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7,960 Posts
I think I may have an ACCT problem... A fellow member said there is a way to test them called the "grambo" and there may be a video here as well...I'm new here can anyone help me out?..... Thanks....And thank you for the dx sparkingdog
Here is a link to the grambo trick in the Vulcan Verses.
http://www.vn750.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1076

You will need a very short and small diameter slotted screwdriver to fit into the top of the ACCT body. Just a bit from a multi bit screwdriver may fit.
The trick is not really a fix, but turning the tensioner screw down tighter allows you to test and see if the noise decreases.
If it does, the tensioner spring is weak. TOC Manufacturing sells stronger spring, but general consensus is that it is only a temporary fix.
They also sell Manual cct for $50 each. This is the top of the line fix, and priced accordingly.
 
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