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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi,

I'm wondering if anyone can help me decide what my next course of action should be to fix my ACCT.

Just got done trying the Grambo Trick on my ACCT, but it didn't work. Nothing felt stuck. I did feel spring resistance as I turned the rod, but I don't know what a healthy spring feels like. The rod turned with moderate pressure.

After Grambo didn't work, I started the engine with the main upper ACCT housing bolt removed and was able to observe the movement of the inner threaded rod. The clacking sound definitely coincides with the rod winding up against the spring and then releasing back to its resting position repeatedly. Is this movement normal, or should the rod be relatively stationary?

If I simply hold a flathead screwdriver against the rod with light pressure, I can stop the movement and the clacking sound goes away. I guess that's essentially what an MCCT would do.

Does this indicate that I need to replace the ACCT spring? I found the TOC Manufacturing rebuild kit and confirmed they are still selling it.

If I do replace the ACCT spring, what level of mechanical knowledge do I need? Oil leaked from the bottom ACCT when I tried Grambo on it. I assume I should drain the oil first if I remove the ACCTs to replace the springs. I also read through the moonmist instructions (found in Wayback machine), but I don't know how to position pistons. That sounds over my current skill level.

Sorry for my lack of terminology and THANK YOU to anyone who can help me navigate through this. It's the only thing wrong with an otherwise perfect sled :)

Edit: for anyone interested in DIY MCCT, this thread seems to be the best info. If you want to buy an MCCT kit, TOC Manufacturing is where you go.
 

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1986 VN750
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3,255 Posts
I am 100% in favor of moving to manual tensioners made by TOC. Replacing the springs is pretty pointless, and commonly doesn't solve the issue.

They're worth the $100, and real easy to install.
 

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Prowling Tiger
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2,048 Posts
I am gonna have to do this soon myself. The motor sounds too slap happy for my comfort. I am wondering, to replace the ACCT behind the coolant res, will I need to drain it or can it be repositioned for easier access?

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I am 100% in favor of moving to manual tensioners made by TOC. Replacing the springs is pretty pointless, and commonly doesn't solve the issue.

They're worth the $100, and real easy to install.
Wow thanks for the quick reply! :)

Any reason not to buy a bolt (search for thread #17917, I can't post URL's yet).

Do I need to worry about piston positions, draining oil, etc?
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
I am gonna have to do this soon myself. The motor sounds too slap happy for my comfort. I am wondering, to replace the ACCT behind the coolant res, will I need to drain it or can it be repositioned for easier access?

Thanks
No need to drain coolant. I was able to remove the res and reposition. It's a little awkward but not bad.
 

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Member? ... check.
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547 Posts
Wow thanks for the quick reply! :)

Any reason not to buy a bolt (search for thread #17917, I can't post URL's yet).

Do I need to worry about piston positions, draining oil, etc?
There is no need to position the pistons, and there is no need to drain the oil. The rear tensioner will dripple a little, but very little. The TOC MCCT's are easy to install.

~~C8>
 

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Prowling Tiger
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2,048 Posts
There is no need to position the pistons, and there is no need to drain the oil. The rear tensioner will dripple a little, but very little. The TOC MCCT's are easy to install.

~~C8>
Sounds like a winner to me. Gotta save first to get the TOC's, but should be well worth the wait.
 

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Patriot Guard Rider
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825 Posts
I heard many successful stories with rebuilding the ACCT's to MCCT's with a few items purchased from your local Home Improvement Center. I purchased and installed the TOC MCCT's for the engineering comfort level.
 

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Sounds like a winner to me. Gotta save first to get the TOC's, but should be well worth the wait.
With having to save being the case, mod the ACCTS to MCCTS using the method you found above and then when you have the spare cash, get the TOC MCCTS, (that's what I did)
 

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Prowling Tiger
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2,048 Posts
With having to save being the case, mod the ACCTS to MCCTS using the method you found above and then when you have the spare cash, get the TOC MCCTS, (that's what I did)
I read thru the DIY post, I'm not good at fabrication. I'll wait until I can afford the pre-made mcct's.
 

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Concert connoisseur
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2,231 Posts
dont crank the engine with accts off and there is no need for top dead center, when replacing the cap screw only snug it up it strips easily. converting yours until you can buy tocs is very cheap and only takes 15 minutes a cylinder, 30 if you relly relly take your time. instrucions are in my sig line!
 
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