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Discussion Starter #1
With my some of my dash lights out, and suggestions from folks to check the connections up at the dash/headlight wiring harness, I decided to...start from the back. Been checking all connections, pulling old electrical tape, and - much to my surprise - am finding wires that are in not-great shape and were sealed by some previous owner. Am bidding on a 2000 harness on eBay, but meanwhile am rewrapping the harness, sealing broken wires, etc., etc. Questions, though: is it possible to get the six-lead or four-lead connectors someplace pleb, like AutoZone? I went to Pep Boys today, and they didn't have anything, but maybe I can find them somewhere other than at Ayers? Just some of my mulit-wire connectors are (surprise again) broken or cracked and I'd like to replace those. Second, what gauge wire is standard on our bikes? I'm guessing it's somewhere between 18 and 22, but maybe it's not that small.

Thanks.
 

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Cindy -

I have replaced several connectors on my bike with trailer harness connectors. You can get 2 pin, 4 pin, and 6 pin versions. They make a good connection, are water resistant, and inexpensive.

Original factory connectors are going to be expensive and a paain to work with.
Most likely, it will be very hard to properly crimp the terminals without the special tool used by the factory.

As a suggestion, these (http://www.etrailer.com/faq/wiring.aspx) are the ones I have used. A couple of bucks at any automotive store. A couple of butt splices, a wrap with electircal tape, done.

Jon
 

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Discussion Starter #3
So you're using those for things like the connection between the harness and, say, the reserve lighting unit? Or the wires coming off the harness up by the headlight and hooking into the main harness (up by the ignition coil under the gas tank)? They look really nice -and a whole lot sturdier than the OEM ones.
THanks, Jon!
 

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So you're using those for things like the connection between the harness and, say, the reserve lighting unit? Or the wires coming off the harness up by the headlight and hooking into the main harness (up by the ignition coil under the gas tank)? They look really nice -and a whole lot sturdier than the OEM ones.
THanks, Jon!
Cindy -

I'll use them for anything other than the yellow stator leads.

Jon
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Hmmm...but these won't fit onto the juntion or ignitor box, right? Or is there something I'd need to do to make 'em work? That's where my problem is right now - the connectors to both of those units are in questionable shape. I don't know whether to epoxy 'em or what. But I could definitely replace all the other connectors with those on the web site. THose look really nice.
 

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Growling at the World...
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Am bidding on a 2000 harness on eBay, but meanwhile am rewrapping the harness, sealing broken wires, etc., etc.
Thanks.
Cindy,

If you do not win that harness, let me know. I have one hanging up in my garage that I was going to use on my VN750 but can be convinced to let go.
 

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Benjammin'
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421 Posts
Question....

Evan,
Are you the one who makes the powder coated R/R bracket to relocate it? If so, do you have any in black available? That is a spring project that I am behind on.

Thanks.
 

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Growling at the World...
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Evan,
Are you the one who makes the powder coated R/R bracket to relocate it? If so, do you have any in black available? That is a spring project that I am behind on.

Thanks.
I am. I have 10 made up waiting for me to get off my lazy ass and powdercoat. Now that Spring has sprung I can get back into my garage and get some work done. Soon...
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Cindy,

If you do not win that harness, let me know. I have one hanging up in my garage that I was going to use on my VN750 but can be convinced to let go.
Thanks, Evan. I did manage to score the harness off of eBay, so I'll see how that does me. But I appreciate the offer!
 

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Second, what gauge wire is standard on our bikes? I'm guessing it's somewhere between 18 and 22, but maybe it's not that small.

Thanks.
I'd said min 16 or even 14, as for headlight the are biger.
Was cutting them yesterday. :)
 

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Benjammin'
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Brackets

Thanks, Evan. I will keep an eye out for them. Do you sell them on eBay or from your site?
 

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Growling at the World...
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Thanks, Evan. I will keep an eye out for them. Do you sell them on eBay or from your site?
To avoid eBay fees, I'll sell them here and on the VN750 YG first and when they slow down, I'll throw one or two on eBay from time to time.
 

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Evan, I'm interested in a bracket when they're ready. Sent you a PM.
 

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I belive most the wire is 16 gauge, and maybe 14/12 for the headlights... way way under par for what is needed. i would love to see it all in 14, with 12/10 for the headlight... so what if it adds weight, the extra 5 lbs is worth it in my book. guess that is all for future mods for me....
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I belive most the wire is 16 gauge, and maybe 14/12 for the headlights... way way under par for what is needed. i would love to see it all in 14, with 12/10 for the headlight... so what if it adds weight, the extra 5 lbs is worth it in my book. guess that is all for future mods for me....
I have a voltmeter that I wanted to install on Orleans, as long as all the wiring is open for business - but the wires seem teeny-tiny; at least 16. Am I gonna have a problem hooking that up?
 

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I have a voltmeter that I wanted to install on Orleans, as long as all the wiring is open for business - but the wires seem teeny-tiny; at least 16. Am I gonna have a problem hooking that up?
Cindy -

Voltmeter leads should be small gauge, ideally, a voltmeter should have infinite impedance (small wire = high impedance) looking into it so it does not load the circuit it is looking at.

Your concern should be making a strong enough connection so that the small wires do not break off.

This help?

Jon
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Cindy -

Voltmeter leads should be small gauge, ideally, a voltmeter should have infinite impedance (small wire = high impedance) looking into it so it does not load the circuit it is looking at.

Your concern should be making a strong enough connection so that the small wires do not break off.

This help?

Jon
Yep, that completely makes sense. I know there have been different approaches to wiring these - some to the battery, so to the extra leads in the headlight harness; any preferences/suggestions? It's got an "in/out" switch, but not anything that directly says "on/off." Harness the best option?
 

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Yep, that completely makes sense. I know there have been different approaches to wiring these - some to the battery, so to the extra leads in the headlight harness; any preferences/suggestions? It's got an "in/out" switch, but not anything that directly says "on/off." Harness the best option?
It's probably not s significant difference, perhaps up to 0.5V, but I would connect the voltmeter directly to the battery, no where else. That;s how mine is connected.

If you are concerned about the draw of the voltmeter while the bike is off, use a normally open relay and switch it with a "live" on only lead.

Jon
 

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Cindy,

As far as stock connectors are concerned, the connector for my R/R was completely trashed. I cut off all the old blade connectors after cutting apart the factory plug and ended up just crimping new female blade connectors on the wires and putting the wires on individually on the R/R. That was about a month ago and no new problems seem to have cropped up so far. If you have problems getting your harness to connect to the IC Ignitor or similar, this may be an option as long as you pay attention to the pin out and get the right wire on the right pin.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Cindy,

As far as stock connectors are concerned, the connector for my R/R was completely trashed. I cut off all the old blade connectors after cutting apart the factory plug and ended up just crimping new female blade connectors on the wires and putting the wires on individually on the R/R. That was about a month ago and no new problems seem to have cropped up so far. If you have problems getting your harness to connect to the IC Ignitor or similar, this may be an option as long as you pay attention to the pin out and get the right wire on the right pin.
I thought (still think) I might need to do exactly that - some of the blades appear to be frozen in the connector (so much for trying to troubleshoot some of those connections). Again, though, I got overwhelmed at the automotive shop, trying to figure out what the right size was, etc. Is this just a matter of taking the old ones in and eyeballing it? I can see I'm gonna have to get caught up on the electrical stuff in a hurry (I'm reading as fast as I can - tonight's chapter is on the voltage drop test!), but I can't tell how much of this is just "by feel" and how much is "standard issue that you can pick up at any Advance Auto Parts."

Let's just say it's a good thing I'm working out these issues on Orleans, and not on the 92 that is currently rideable. :smiley_th
 
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