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Well guys....per Clymer manual I just checked the resistance between each yellow wire on the stator side and I have (Zero - 0) on my multimeter indicating full continuity. Then I tested each yellow terminal to ground and I get (One- 1) on the multimeter indicating No continuity. I also checked resistance & continuity from the 3 yellow bullet connectors to the R/R plug and I also have (zero-0) resistance and full continuity. I did touch my regulator and it is very hot as well but the plastic plug looks ok and no burning or dirty or rusty spots, so I'm not sure if it's the entire yellow wiring that may just be getting hot or should I take the seat off and trace the 3 yellow wires from the stator to see if I see anything obvious!

Any ideas or suggestions, as to what I can try next would be great.....Thanks again everyone!!!
Not sure you're testing correctly. Testing the three wires at the stator connectors, you should get a resistance reading between each wire. Then test between each stator wire and ground, there should be no connection at all.

There's an outline of the test pinned in the electrical section of the forum.
 

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Sorry....I just tested again and on my multimeter in the Resistance section I only have 20 - 2000K - 200k I put on just 200 . When I put on 200 , I get 00.9 resistance in between the 3 yellow terminals.
This reading should be good.

Yes, as mentioned, the bullet connectors can add resistance, soldering the wires together can help.
 

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Crimp connectors... boooooo. Solder and heat shrink.... yaaay.

12ga wire is good.

Nice thing about the MOSFET RR, it does away with all the factory RR wiring, bypasses the junction box, and goes straight to the battery.

I don't know what's going on, wires too hot to touch but charging. ???? RR going out? 14.6v is a bit on the high end.
 

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My thought is that the stator might be putting out more amps than the stock R/R can handle. Since the stock R/R is a shunt to ground voltage regulator, it’s going to push all the extra amperage out as heat… either from the R/R itself, or from the stator wires as described.
Wonder if this is how they all fail? RR doesn't bleed off the heat like it should.

Still pointing at a failing RR? Maybe we should see what the AC volts are on the stator.

RR and stator were both dead on mine.

Weird that the stator leads are too hot to touch, but the RR plug hasn't melted at all. But it sounds like the heat is all down toward the stator.
 

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The OP stated he had a section of wire that felt messed up if that section is corroding it may still be conducting but not as efficiently as the rest of the wiring and building up heat.
I figured it had been cooked by the heat, working it's way to the RR plug.
 

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You may be right, I just go simple first for troubleshooting , if the wiring is junk it can ef up everything else
Have seen it before, the overheated insulation loses most or all of it's flexibility, sometimes just breaks and crumbles when you move it.
 

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Guys....Happy to report that once I replaced about 6 inches of the 3 yellow wires that was bullet connected to the stator, the "Hot to the touch" wire issue has been resolved! I could not find High temperature 12 gauge wire, but found High temp 14 gauge wire (+200 degree Fahrenheit) and replaced the stiff -not bendable yellow wires that connected to stator. Had the bike at idle till it reached normal operating temperature and wires were just a barely warm to touch.

Once weather starts to cool off a bit , going to do the Pickup coil mod and reduce the gap to 0.20 . I have been dealing with hot start, backfire issue at gas stations and short stops ever since I owned the bike, even with top of the line sealed battery, irradium spark plugs. Many...Many thanks to all of you for all the help on this forum......you guys are Awesome!!!
Try the choke with no throttle on those short stops, works on mine. I don't have the pickup mod yet .
 
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