Kawasaki VN750 Forum banner
1 - 20 of 26 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
46 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello,
Guys....have about 22k miles on my 2004 750 and replaced my stator last year with OEM kawasaki stator and have relocated the original oem regulator to the back where it's getting cooler air. I also installed a voltmeter on the bike after my stator failed to monitor the voltage. Bike has been running fine with no issues, charging voltage output in 14.5-14.6. on the battery side while revving the bike to 3000-4000 RPM

I was inspecting all my wirings and hoses last week while the bike was running and noticed my 3 yellow stator wires were too hot to touch. So, I'm simply asking if they are normally suppose to get hot like this? I do not have them bundled or wrapped together, the 3 little bullet connectors are clean and tightly inserted and have about 3- 4 inches air clearance in between them.

Thanks in advance for any and all feedback!
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,233 Posts
Heat is a sign of some sort of resistance. What shape are the connectors (if any) between the stator and the r/r plug in? Some have soldered these together to get a cleaner contact dielectric grease isn’t a bad idea for the connectors either.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
46 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the reply....well, looking at the yellow wire bullet connectors, they are the original OEM from kawasaki and they connect to stator wires coming from Stator. I have not traced these wires to see how they connect to the R/R, but I have inspected the plug and the wires that connect to the OEM kawasaki R/R , both the wires and plug looks good and does not have any sign of burning or discoloration. Although the 3 yellow stator wires get very hot to touch, I didn't see any melting or burning sign, just hot to touch!

Not sure what to think!!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
46 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
They are actually too hot to touch! I just looked at the 3 yellow wire connections coming from the new stator and they are thick and very flexible. However the 3 yellow wire connections coming down from under the seat to connect to them, have gotten thin and they are quiet stiff about an inch before they bullet connect. I wonder if that small stiff wire sections mean the wires has been damaged or burned? it still has the yellow plastic jacket on them but they are very stiff about an inch on each of the wires. If I need to replace the 3 wires coming down from under the seat , are these special wires or what gauge wire should I use?

Thanks again guys!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
46 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks Spockster...I have an Ohm meter and Clymer manual and I'm getting 14.6 voltage to make sure it's charging. The Stator is OEM from Kawasaki dealer and it has less than 1000 miles on it...How is the best way to Ohm test it? I'm thinking i should follow the 3 yellow wires coming down from under the seat that connect to the stator bullet connections to make sure they are not damaged.

I appreciate any other thoughts or ideas!
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,233 Posts
If you have the Clymer’s manual. There is a section in the electrical chapter that outlines the stator tests, it’ll take you through the ohm tests(resistance) across the 3 leads as well as the voltage outputs. Besides those tests I would do continuity tests with the 3 wires unhooked to the plug going into the r/r.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
46 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Ok...I will look through the charging system page for the ohm test resistance across the 3 leads of the stator. But can you please tell me about the continuity tests with 3 wires unhooked.. looking at my R/R plug, it looks like I have 6 wires going to this plug. 3 yellow wires at the bottom (which I assume are the same wires that connect to the stator ? ) and 3 wires at the top section of the plug (brown -white-yellow&blk) . With bike off, I should be testing the continuity of the 3 yellow wires from the bullet connection to the R/R plug to make sure there's no disconnect or problem, right?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,233 Posts
Yes with r/r unhooked the 3 yellow wires are connected to the 3 stator leads. Carefully unhook the 3 bullet connectors and test the wires going between the bullet connectors and the r/r plug. There should be no resistance across the leads. A basic continuity test on a meter will beep when it reads continuity if it has that setting. If not just use the ohm test and it should read 0
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
46 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Well guys....per Clymer manual I just checked the resistance between each yellow wire on the stator side and I have (Zero - 0) on my multimeter indicating full continuity. Then I tested each yellow terminal to ground and I get (One- 1) on the multimeter indicating No continuity. I also checked resistance & continuity from the 3 yellow bullet connectors to the R/R plug and I also have (zero-0) resistance and full continuity. I did touch my regulator and it is very hot as well but the plastic plug looks ok and no burning or dirty or rusty spots, so I'm not sure if it's the entire yellow wiring that may just be getting hot or should I take the seat off and trace the 3 yellow wires from the stator to see if I see anything obvious!

Any ideas or suggestions, as to what I can try next would be great.....Thanks again everyone!!!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,265 Posts
Well guys....per Clymer manual I just checked the resistance between each yellow wire on the stator side and I have (Zero - 0) on my multimeter indicating full continuity. Then I tested each yellow terminal to ground and I get (One- 1) on the multimeter indicating No continuity. I also checked resistance & continuity from the 3 yellow bullet connectors to the R/R plug and I also have (zero-0) resistance and full continuity. I did touch my regulator and it is very hot as well but the plastic plug looks ok and no burning or dirty or rusty spots, so I'm not sure if it's the entire yellow wiring that may just be getting hot or should I take the seat off and trace the 3 yellow wires from the stator to see if I see anything obvious!

Any ideas or suggestions, as to what I can try next would be great.....Thanks again everyone!!!
Not sure you're testing correctly. Testing the three wires at the stator connectors, you should get a resistance reading between each wire. Then test between each stator wire and ground, there should be no connection at all.

There's an outline of the test pinned in the electrical section of the forum.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
46 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Sorry....I just tested again and on my multimeter in the Resistance section I only have 20 - 2000K - 200k I put on just 200 . When I put on 200 , I get 00.9 resistance in between the 3 yellow terminals.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
46 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Ok...I just tried another voltmeter and I'm now getting 0.21 - 0.22 across the 3 yellow terminals from the stator side with the bike off .
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
886 Posts
Solder the stator wires in place of where the bullet connectors are. You could also upgrade to a MOSFET or series regulator rectifier while you’re at it
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,265 Posts
Sorry....I just tested again and on my multimeter in the Resistance section I only have 20 - 2000K - 200k I put on just 200 . When I put on 200 , I get 00.9 resistance in between the 3 yellow terminals.
This reading should be good.

Yes, as mentioned, the bullet connectors can add resistance, soldering the wires together can help.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
46 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 ·
The battery is new , I just bought it last month from Batteries Plus, it's Duracell closed cell sealed battery and 210 cca. I think I'm going to cut the 3 piece of yellow wire by the bullets that is rock hard and not flexiable at all and just replace it with 6 inch of good 12 gauge or maybe 14 gauge wires and either solder the wires or use crimp connectors and see if that is my problem. I am working night shift this week , so it will be next weekend.

12 gauge or 14 gauge should be heat tolerant, right? will try it and post results!

You guys are awesome...many thanks!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,265 Posts
Crimp connectors... boooooo. Solder and heat shrink.... yaaay.

12ga wire is good.

Nice thing about the MOSFET RR, it does away with all the factory RR wiring, bypasses the junction box, and goes straight to the battery.

I don't know what's going on, wires too hot to touch but charging. ???? RR going out? 14.6v is a bit on the high end.
 
1 - 20 of 26 Posts
Top