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Discussion Starter #1
I am relatively new to the world of motorcycles but have a lot of experience working on cars. The stator went bad on my bike so I bought a new one to replace it. While taking of the cover on the left side, I learned that I could not get to a couple of the bolts as they are covered up by the frame. Is it possible to replace the stator without removing the entire engine? Is there a way to lift the engine a few inches without removing it completely? Thanks!
 

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*No, and yes.

Engine has to be pulled off or tilted to change the stator. Browse this site for info, read the Vulcan Verses too. I have pics and tips for the engine tilt if you need them, that's how I did my '03.

*There's also a side case mod than allows stator r&r without pulling the engine, but it can be tricky. Look for 'stator mod plate' or 'Tux mod' or 'Tuxedo mod' here on the site.
 

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FREEBIRDS MC CENTRAL NY
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Did you test your rectifier too?a bad rectifier can also cause it to not charge.I noticed this is your first post. How about ya hop on over to the newbie section and tell us a little about yourself
 

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FREEBIRDS MC CENTRAL NY
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Thank you
 

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FREEBIRDS MC CENTRAL NY
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Yes it's not that hard
 

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I basically followed most of the walk through by JM1515 in the Verses. I did not remove the carb boots from the air box, just pulled them off the carbs. I pulled the upper coolant hose so I could move the air box move and I pulled the rear axle rolled the back tire back and pulled the drive shaft loose. Then I lowered the engine and pushed it to the right side enough to remove the cover. I chose not to remove the bevel gear cover, but it may have been easier. Basically I would only need to disconnect the throttle cables to finish dropping the engine. Just be aware the bike is really unstable once you start pushing on the engine. I used jack stands to support the frame on the right side even with the engine on 2 jacks. I think all the write ups have their merits. It just depends on what you want, or need to do. Good luck and keep us informed.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
So I dove head first into it when I got home from work last night. I removed the fuel tank, the exhaust, and the frame on the right side where it breaks away. I placed a jack under the engine on a small block of wood so I wouldn't damage the engine. I jacked it up enough to have a little pressure on the jack. I then removed the three bolts that Mount the engine to the frame.
That brings me to my first real problem. Do I need to remove the rear end to get the engine out? If so, what's the easiest way to do that? And can this be done without a special motorcycle specific jack/stand? I've got 2 regular scissor jacks from my cars. The motorcycle is currently supported by the bikes stand. Thanks!
 

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FREEBIRDS MC CENTRAL NY
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The driveshaft will slide off the motor.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
So I do not need to take the rear end off? what is the best way to hold the engine while I remove it from the frame?
 

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Using scissor jacks, about the only way is using brute strength to lift and move the engine off the jacks and off the frame.

I knew I didn't want to lift the engine by myself (bad back), so I did the tilt. The ratchet strap was there to catch it if it came off the jack, and also gave me up/down and changed alignment when I needed it. There were times when the jack was let completely off, and the engine stayed put.

Don't need to pull the rear, it's just a little harder to manipulate the front driveshaft yoke back onto the bevel splines.

The wheels of the floor jack allowed me to slide the engine outward enough to clear the shifter shaft when tilted. You don't want to tweak on the shifter shaft and break the internal linkage, have to split the engine to fix that.



 

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It's a good idea to tie or block the centerstand forward so it can't fold up if the bike is jostled forward while moving the engine around.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Thanks Spokster. I will go out and grab a floor jack after work. Do I need to take off all of the air intake before "tilting" the engine?
 

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Old Truck Junkie
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So I do not need to take the rear end off? what is the best way to hold the engine while I remove it from the frame?
I usually remove the wheel so I don't need to remove the bevel gears. Also I remove all the engine mounts. I remove the mount brackets off the frame too.
 

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FREEBIRDS MC CENTRAL NY
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I put a motorcycle jack under the motor and just rolled it out with jack
 

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Thanks Spokster. I will go out and grab a floor jack after work. Do I need to take off all of the air intake before "tilting" the engine?
For mine, the airbox, intake hoses, ears, and all the reed valve hoses were removed before I pulled the engine. Seemed easier to do the earshave and coasters right then to gain the extra space. It's tight with the airbox in, but it can be done. Will probably have to take off the ducts and pry or tie the airbox upward,

It's possible to get the driveshaft back in by working only at the front. But having the rear drive off allows turning and pushing the driveshaft with your other hand while lifting up the front with the other. You can turn the rear wheel to rotate the shaft. The front of the driveshaft was put on the splines first, then the engine comes backward to line up on the engine mounts.

(mine got a rear tire and spline lube at the same time)
 

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You can really use another person helping, I had a helper when I tilted mine. You don't want to accidentally drop the engine off the jack, would probably stretch or break something.

We worked methodically and let slack off the strap slowly while changing the angle of the engine by pulling the jack from the side.

Then we stuck that 5" wood mallet in there to angle the shifter shaft up away from the frame. (top left in first pic)

Be sure and check the balancer dampers while you have the stator cover off Check for cracked rubber or a wobbly gear.
 

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You may not have to use anything to wedge the engine, like I did with the mallet. I got to do the whole job twice because I installed the damper gear 180° out of phase the first time. On the final tilt, we reached a point where it was better to wedge than move the engine further.

The first tilt went better and the shifter cleared the frame, as in the pic below. Note the second black strap.

You can also see the damper gear installed 180° out, big pin in the big hole, wrong! It goes big pin in the little hole. The bike shook so bad, you couldn't see the handgrips.



 
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