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Discussion Starter #1
If someone has a set of coils or even one that your willing to part with would work. I think it's the front cylinder that is screwing up (not sure). No one around here can figure out just what my problem (the bikes) is so I'm just going to start replacing part till the problem is fixed or I go broke whichever comes first.:confused:
 

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The Professor
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3,147 Posts
If someone has a set of coils or even one that your willing to part with would work. I think it's the front cylinder that is screwing up (not sure). No one around here can figure out just what my problem (the bikes) is so I'm just going to start replacing part till the problem is fixed or I go broke whichever comes first.:confused:
Before you replace the coils test the primary and secondary resistance. If the front cylinder is not firing correctly you will notice it from the RPM's fluctuating. The Tach runs off the front coil, remove the headlight and unplug the Tach. sometimes a bad Tach. will cause the front cylinder to not fire properly. You can also swap the coils to see if there is a change. With the Tach. disconnected and coils swapped, if there is no change then your problem will be in the pickup coil or the CDI igniter. Usually the igniter either works or it doesn't, rarely is it intermitent. Also check the back of the fuse box to see if there is any acid damage from battery acid.
 

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The Reanimater
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847 Posts
If someone has a set of coils or even one that your willing to part with would work. I think it's the front cylinder that is screwing up (not sure). No one around here can figure out just what my problem (the bikes) is so I'm just going to start replacing part till the problem is fixed or I go broke whichever comes first.:confused:
This should help with the measurements. Mine was 2.4 Ohms
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the info.

I will try what you guys have suggeted and thanks a lot. I need all the help I get on this. What it's doing is when I go to work I might get any ware form a ¼ to 16 miles down the road and it start losing power and I have to pull over and stop. I set there for less then a minute at idling and then I take off and it might act up again or not. The next time it will run like I think it should (very strong). Carb's rebuilt, new plugs and battery, Didn't help.
 

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Undercover Sportbiker
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If you end up needing coils, let me know (via email). I believe I still have 3 hanging around my parts bin that I can sell you for cheap.
 

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Premium Member
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A reasonably good road test of a bad coil is if your bike starts overheating when you find you're losing power (gee, how would I know about that?!). If you're only running off one coil, means you're only running off one cylinder and the bike's working extra hard to go forward. Any significant change in the temp gauge when your power loss happens?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
No change in temp when it screws up. I just picked it up from the shop and going to start checking the coils, grounds, all connection. R/R which is running 13.5 to 18.2 VDC going down the road. I thought that might be the problem but it did it when it was running at 13.8 VDC and when it was running 17.5. So I think all I did was find one more thing that is wrong with this thing.:doh:
 
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