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Sparky!!!
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JJ23, In short the answer is yes, but then again no... Degoating has been going on for a long time. It does hurt bottom end performance a little, but with properly tuned carbs combined with an earshave, it helps out the top end.
 

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I think Fargo did a kickazz job on his H pipe fab....bravo, bro !.....

As to backpressure, what few realize, is that if you remove the belly, but add BAFFLED muffs, the backpressure stays the same pretty much....main difference, is its not as balanced. Thats done with either an H pipe (proper way), or drilling a few holes in the left side baffle.....
 

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R/R = Relocated Redneck
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X2 Fargo. When i finally get around to replacing the belly with a h-pipe, I'm going to put torque cones in mine. The screamin eagle baffles don't provide a whole lot of back pressure.

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FREEBIRDS MC CENTRAL NY
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X2 Fargo. When i finally get around to replacing the belly with a h-pipe, I'm going to put torque cones in mine. The screamin eagle baffles don't provide a whole lot of back pressure.

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Lol.i didn't notice .;)
 

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The first time I pulled the exhaust shield off I was wondering if I can do the same thing!!

I guess it'll be this weekend's project. I'll try the de-goat without doing anything to the stock mufflers to see how it sounds. I don't want it too loud either. $20 for some flex pipe, if I don't like it, it's fairly simple to reverse it.

This forum has been very valuable already!
 

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Attempted this earlier. I got pretty much everything done, but when I was putting the front side of the flex coil to the header pipe, it's really loose. I tighten the U-clamp over it, but it just crush flex-pipe, which creates a crazy leak. What did you guys use to as filler or shim?

I'm going to have to get another flex-pipe to try again tomorrow and maybe some kind of shim or seal of some type since the flex pipe is slightly too big and doesn't crush down well to seal over the header. Maybe cutting some slits into so it doesn't crush in and actually folds in?

I'll try again tomorrow and see.
 

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Attempted this earlier. I got pretty much everything done, but when I was putting the front side of the flex coil to the header pipe, it's really loose. I tighten the U-clamp over it, but it just crush flex-pipe, which creates a crazy leak. What did you guys use to as filler or shim?

I'm going to have to get another flex-pipe to try again tomorrow and maybe some kind of shim or seal of some type since the flex pipe is slightly too big and doesn't crush down well to seal over the header. Maybe cutting some slits into so it doesn't crush in and actually folds in?

I'll try again tomorrow and see.
If the leak isn't really bad maybe try some permatex rtv and the clamp? Also IMO don't use the u clamps the flex pipes come with. Find Harley Davidson exhaust clamps on eBay. There really good and cheap

http://www.permatex.com/products-2/product-categories/gasketing/gasket-makers/permatex-high-temp-red-rtv-silicone-gasket-detail

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If you want a change in paint,I found pressure pack Lacquer the go, One can for tank and side covers, add a can of clear, and hey presto! You got a new coat of paint. Of course a few sheets of wet and dry sand paper also. My cost,$52, I never did like the grim old black paint I had, a bit to manic for me. I also believe a balance pipe in the exhaust system is the right way to go,but to each there own. have a nice day.
 

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I used laquer in the early 80s....its really not practical unless youre making a showbike/car.....best bet, is to properly do an enamel (numerous coats, sanding in between), then clearcoat it with SprayMax2K from Germany....its virtually gasproof too, as long as you dont let it sit for awhile....the Spraymax was about $23 US.....laquer takes a LOT of elbowgrease to get it proper....plus, youre limited in shades.....
 

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06 De-Goat

Hey guys I also did my own de goat I came in at about $25.00. I used rigid ex. pipe on mine and welded them myself. I used 1 3/4 18" 2pcs and 1 3/4 couplers, I used stock clamps and some ex. tape at the joints had to have the right side bent some to match the rise... none of you guys have had to change your jetting? and no issues with the tune? no one burning lean? and where do you guys live in regards to elevation 001.jpg
I also stayed with the stock tips for the back pressure
002.jpg
 

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FREEBIRDS MC CENTRAL NY
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You didn't earshave so you should be fine.and every bike(as I've learned from the guys here)is different so what works for one bike might not work for another. best i can say is to read your sparkplugs.others will chime in
 

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Haya Troy....glad ya did it the right way....ummm...as fer rejetting...mostly depends on the muffs ya got after....I ran stock baffled Sporty muffs with pods...didnt need no rejet.....runnin straightpipes now, with baffles, to fishtails that end 8" past my rear tire....I had my jets drilled out....just to the next though....not too much.....

I really need to get myself a set of jet drills......I could help so many...

Jets depend on exhaust, not so much intake.....
 

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I did the degoat when I replaced my stator this past weekend, but noticed the following..

1. What do you guys use to seal the gaps between flex pipe and rigid pipes under the clamps? I'm noticing a lot of air coming out of these seems.
2. My front exhaust is extremely loud.. Almost no muffler loud. Not sure if it's coming from the exhaust manifold or the exhaust itself. Here's what I did:

A. Unbolted exhaust manifold nuts (4) from cylinder head. Pryed it loose, but didn't remove.
B. Realized I'm an idiot and don't need to do that. Put the nuts back on as tight I could.
C. Removed the exhaust pipe nuts (2) and the clamping mechanism.

After I replaced the stator and reassembled, I did the following..

A. Put a new kawasaki crush gasket in place
B. Put exhaust pipes in, along with the two clamp pieces and the cover
C. Put the nuts on, tightened them up

I'm definitely noticing a raw exhaust sound from up front, but not in back. I unbolted and rebooted the exhaust on (but not the manifold, can't get to that without removing radiator), but no change.. Do I need more than one crush gasket? These seem small and thin. Is there some gasket on the exhaust manifold that I need to replace now that I've sorta removed it? Am I missing something else?


3. Never noticed, but one of the PO's took off the right side heat shield. Not sure how I missed that, but sure enough my right side looks terrible now! For now, at least.
4. Finally.. tons of backfiring while decelerating.. gotta readjust the fuel ratio I guess. I've ear shaved and rejetted, so must just need to adjust.
 

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..have a vulcan good day!
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Permatex high heat sealant is your friend for exhaust leaks
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/Permatex-Hi-temp-RTV-silicone-gasket-maker/_/N-25a0?itemIdentifier=526939_0_0_

Also both those acorn nuts have specific torque specs on them, if you over or under tighten them they will leak. im not she what the exact torque spec is im on the road, someone well chime in with it,if not I'll get it for you when I get home
I Lost the Web Page/Link, but have Copy & Paste:
Most of these torque values are from the Clymer Service Manual
hth
enjoy

Tightening Torques
==================
BRAKES:
Rear brake pedal pinch bolt . . . . 18 ft-lb
Disc bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16.5 ft-lb
Front banjo bolts (ALL) . . . . . . 18 ft-lb
Front caliper bleed valve . . . . . 5.8 ft-lb
Front caliper mounting bolts . . . . 24 ft-lb
Rear brake arm bolt . . . . . . . . 13.5 ft-lb

CLUTCH / TRANSMISSION:
Clutch lock nut . . . . . . . . . . 96 ft-lb
Clutch spring (pressure plate) bolts 80 in-lb = 6.7 ft-lb
Damper cam nut . . . . . . . . . . . 89 ft-lb

COOLING SYSTEM:
Cylinder drain plugs . . . . . . . . 78 in-lb = 6.5 ft-lb
Radiator drain plug . . . . . . . . 26 in-lb = 2.2 ft-lb
Radiator mounting bolts . . . . . . 52-69 in-lb*
Thermostat housing bleed valve . . . 69 in-lb = 5.7 ft-lb

ELECTRICAL:
Rectifier/Regulator bolts . . . . . 60 in-lb = 5 ft-lb
Starter one-way clutch Allen bolts . 25 ft-lb
Stator mounting bolts . . . . . . . 52-69 in-lb*
Rotor mounting bolt . . . . . . . . 33-45 ft-lb*

ENGINE:
Balance bolts - left & right . . . . 51 ft-lb
Camshaft bearing cap bolts . . . . . 8.5 ft-lb
Chain guide bolts, upper . . . . . . 17.5 ft-lb
Chain guide tentioner bolts, upper . 11 ft-lb
Connecting rod cap nuts . . . . . . 34 ft-lb
Cylinder block nuts . . . . . . . . 18 ft-lb
Cylinder head cover bolts . . . . . 87 in-lb = 7.3 ft-lb
Cylinder head bolts . . . . . . . . 8.5 ft-lb
Cylinder head to crankcase stud nuts:
6mm preliminary . 61 in-lb = 5 ft-lb
6mm final . 11 ft-lb
10mm preliminary . 18 ft-lb
10mm final . 29 ft-lb
Cylinder head to cylinder nuts:
6mm preliminary . 78 in-lb = 6.5 ft-lb
6mm final . 11 ft-lb
8mm preliminary . 13 ft-lb
8mm final . 18 ft-lb
Engine coolant drain plugs . . . . . 78 in-lb = 6.5 ft-lb
Neutral switch . . . . . . . . . . . 19-25 ft-lb*
Oil drain plug - bottom . . . . . . 13 ft-lb
Oil screen/drain plug - side . . . . 13 ft-lb
Oil filter . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13 ft-lb
Oil line - external bolt . . . . . . 8.5 ft-lb
Oil pressure switch . . . . . . . . 11 ft-lb
Oil pressure switch bolt . . . . . . 14.5 ft-lb
Primary drive gear bolt . . . . . . 89 ft-lb
Reed valve cover bolts . . . . . . . 60 in-lb = 5 ft-lb
Shift lever pinch bolt . . . . . . . 60 in-lb = 5 ft-lb
Spark plugs . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 ft-lb
Spark plug retainer . . . . . . . . 8.5 ft-lb

EXHAUST:
Exhaust manifold cap nuts . . . . . 18 ft-lb
Muffler mount bolt & nut . . . . . . 11 ft-lb


FRAME:
Sub-frame front & rear bolts . . . . 33 ft-lb
Frame front cross-brace bolts . . . 10-13.5 ft-lb*
Seat mount bolts . . . . . . . . . . 52-69 in-lb*
Sidestand nut . . . . . . . . . . . 10-13.5 ft-lb*

FUEL SYSTEM:
Air filter cover screws . . . . . . 50 in-lb*
Fuel tank bolts . . . . . . . . . . 10-13.5 ft-lb*

FRONT SUSPENSION / STEERING:
Fork bridge bolts - lower . . . . . 18 ft-lb
Fork bridge bolts - upper . . . . . 14.5 ft-lb
Fork cap air fitting (85-89) . . . . 5.7 ft-lb
Fork drain bolt . . . . . . . . . . 69 in-lb = 5.7 ft-lb
Fork slider Allen bolt . . . . . . . 14.5 ft-lb
Front axel pinch bolt . . . . . . . 9.5 ft-lb
Front axel nut . . . . . . . . . . . 43 ft-lb
Front brake disc bolts . . . . . . . 16.5 ft-lb
Front bevel geat case bolt . . . . . 8.5 ft-lb
Handlebar holder mounting Allen bolt 17.5 ft-lb

REAR SUSPENSION / FINAL DRIVE:
Brake torque rod bolt/nut . . . . . 22 ft-lb
Final drive - bearing case bolts . . 25 ft-lb
Final drive - drain plug . . . . . . 14.5 ft-lb
Final drive - mounting nuts . . . . 17.5 ft-lb
Rear axel nut. . . . . . . . . . . . 80 ft-lb
Shock absorber nuts . . . . . . . . 26 ft-lb
Steering stem bolt . . . . . . . . . 29 ft-lb
Swing arm retainer lock nut . . . . 9.6 ft-lb
 

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I use Harley Evo exhaust gaskets...theyre reusable 10x....those stupid stockers are just that....overpriced stupid stockers...

I dont use flexpipe...I weld my joints....that old mod you followed gotta be what...10 yrs ???...weld yer joints....

Thank you Wm....for once we agree, lol....
 
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