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Discussion Starter #1
Hey Guys

My 06 vulcan only has 8k miles on it, so I thinking sitting has a lot to do with my problem. Also just couple days ago I washed it a wand wash and rode it dry. All of the sudden today (first ride after wash) on my way to work it seems like it was taking the throttle a long time to close. I got to playing with it at lunch today and it appears the throttle shafts are snapping back shut with engine off. While riding down the road though it acts like I'm keeping the throttle open some between shifts about 4k rpm, and the bike has littl/no engine braking for the first 5 or 6 seconds after closing the throttle, not just releasing it but forcing it closed. I ran the tank well into reserve and filled back up with premium no ethanol and a healthy shot of seafoam. Considering a shot of wd40 on the throttle shafts. Any Suggestions????

Thanks
 

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Usually after a good cleaning and if you clean the gunk off the carbs you should give them a good dose of silicone or spray lubricant. There are a lot of moving parts on the carbs that need lube to move freely.
 

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So here is my super simple thought (since most my problems stem from the 'duh' side of issues):

If the mechanics of the throttle seem to be working with the engine off, and you just washed the bike before you noticed this, do you think you may have accidentally bumped into your idle screw?

It would account for it acting like you had the throttle up a bit at lights after the engine has warmed up and it would also explain why the engine braking isn't working as well since the rpms are higher.

Just a thought.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
my top end rattles enough for me to hear it WOT with 87 or 89. I've tried several brands with and with out ethanol and local 87 straight even feels different. I realize the 87 is supposed to give a bigger boom but my baby balks in several different ways when I try it.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
My idle screw is super stiff and i've adjustcouple times. No obvious problems in filter boxes, no trash and lightly oiled. Carb entrances are clean and shiny but givem a strong soaking in gumout anyway. Lubed everything I could find with kroil. I should probably by a kit and lube cables may get into that after it gets cold!. The bad news is it's not fixed but it is better! I'm thinking about pulling air cleaners and load it with gumout at about 3k to get into the deeper parts but kind of worried there might be something in the box or the gumout eating the box under the tank to prevent this. Anyway if it spent more time on the road instead of covered in the garage it probably wouldn't have this problem anyway. Thanks for the pointers!!!!
 

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My idle screw is super stiff and i've adjustcouple times.

The screw shouldn't be that stiff. It needs to be stiff enough not to vibrate out of adjustment, but it sounds like yours is too stiff.

No obvious problems in filter boxes, no trash and lightly oiled. Carb entrances are clean and shiny but givem a strong soaking in gumout anyway.

Have you tried Sea Foam? Lots of folks here use it to clean the carbs, remove moisture from fuel, stabilize for storage, and other things. Very versitile product, and it doesn't harm plastic or rubber like some other carb products.

Lubed everything I could find with kroil. I should probably by a kit and lube cables may get into that after it gets cold!.

You can save some money on the cable lube kit. Disconnect the cable ends, poke the top through the corner of a zip lock bag, tape it shut, and add your lubricant of choice to the bag. Have someting on the bottom to catch what runs out.

The bad news is it's not fixed but it is better! I'm thinking about pulling air cleaners and load it with gumout at about 3k to get into the deeper parts but kind of worried there might be something in the box or the gumout eating the box under the tank to prevent this. Anyway if it spent more time on the road instead of covered in the garage it probably wouldn't have this problem anyway. Thanks for the pointers!!!!
Hope this helps.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Have about 4oz seafoam in this fresh tank straight gas. By super stiff I mean I can see NO chance in accidentally turning it. Also the ziplock lube idea just any spray type? Any preferences from the group? I like the economical idea. Thanks
 

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Oil works fine with this system.

If you are trying to do a serious carb clean, 1/2 a can Of Sea Foam per tank is a fairly standard dose around here. Three ounces is considered maintenance cleaning. You can also drain the gas from the carbs and refill with straight Sea Foam. Drain the Sea Foam before trying to crank the bike.
 

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I had the same problem so here's my two cents worth...

your air cut valves (part #43028) could be at fault. Good news is that they can be replaced without removing the carbs.

You might need to drill out the -PILOT AIR SCREW PLUGS and adjust the PILOT AIR SCREWS to 3 turns out.

Not sure which one did the trick but I no longer had the problem after I did those two things.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I had the same problem so here's my two cents worth...

your air cut valves (part #43028) could be at fault. Good news is that they can be replaced without removing the carbs.

You might need to drill out the -PILOT AIR SCREW PLUGS and adjust the PILOT AIR SCREWS to 3 turns out.

Not sure which one did the trick but I no longer had the problem after I did those two things.
this sounds interesting but i'd most definitely need a diagram lol! between the lube and seafoam it seems to have improved dramatically! i'm bout ready to quit for the time being. thanks guys
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I'll need a diagram and 12pk for that kinda procedure! Seriously though, thanks guys I think I'm pretty well happy now. It seems to be about as good as new, however I was not really tickled with return to idle then. Back to ridin once or twice a year again now LOL at least til the carbs act up again. Keep the shiny side up!!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Awesome photos by the way
 
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