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Metric Bobber Build

151K views 138 replies 21 participants last post by  OleDirtyDoc 
#1 · (Edited)
Since I posted my "First Picture Post" http://www.vn750.com/forum/showthread.php?t=5279 I have had several comments on the "look" of the bike and several suggestions for changes (nicely photoshopped by oglejust and Hyper, I might add :) http://www.vn750.com/forum/showthread.php?t=5314 ). I thought it was pretty cool that my bike was used to show some "what-if" ideas. I am planning to modify the bike further and maybe even use some of the suggestions! I am going to try to document some of those changes here and hopefully get some forum input, suggestions and probably some criticism (constructive critcism, I hope!) as I progress. So here goes . . .

What the PO's have done -
* 2-inch drop rigid bars
* Stock seat converted to solo
* Marble mod, R&R, degoat and replace mufflers with staright pipes (they are too loud now!)
* Replace stock turn signals and brake light with LEDs
* Relocate license plate to left side using a diamond plate mount
* Removed all emblems and decals
* Removed windshield
* Relocated the horns

What I have done thus far -
* Ear shave (pod filters and shim tank)
* Removed crash bar
* Removed front fender
* Replace LED turnsignals with carbon fiber look incandescent units (couldn't get the flashers to work right with LEDs)
* Removed passenger pegs and mounts
* Removed side covers - will be reinstalled or replaced after frame mod is complete

What I plan to do (Probably in stages and this is Stage 1) -
* Modify the frame to look more like a true rigid frame
* Replace the modified stock seat with low profile spring mounted solo seat
* Replace the rear fender with a bobber fender mounted close to the tire
* Replace the side mounted license plate unit with a 32 Ford Model A tail light and a non-DP mount
* Some sort of muffler addition or full exhaust replacement - not sure yet

Stage 2 will probably be paint and maybe some mods to the front fork, headlight and instruments, and perhaps drag bars, but I am not thinking that far ahead yet!

Here is a photo with the top frame modification indicated - basically a straight line from the tree to the rear axle for a true rigid frame look. A lower frame piece (not shown) will be added as well.



The frame above the blue line will be cut off and a new upper frame rail will be fabbed and installed from the bottom rear of the tank to the shock mount on the rear axle. My intent is to keep as much of the Kawasaki-engineered frame structure as possible. This is a different approach than was done by Bucky or some of the bikes on CD Thayer's site where I believe they have removed the swingarm set up and attached the new frame directly to the axle. I will be retaining the swing arm and attaching the frame to the shock mount stud on the axle. This should eliminate any rear wheel alignment issues. Essentially I will be relocating the upper shock mount to be in line with the new upper frame piece.

So any comments, questions (other than to my sanity?), suggestions or constructive criticism before I start surgery?? BTW, this bike is a flood recovery bike (thanks to hurricane Isabel a few years ago!) so the frame has some rust and needs repair in the base case. I don't think I would do this to a pristine VN750! Thanks.
 
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#3 ·
Sounds like it should be a nice project.
Have you worked something out for the battery location, or is the spring seat not going to be in the way of where it is now?

I don't think there's been any documentaion of a Vulcan getting bobbed. Just the end result pics. Will certainly be interesting to see your work in progress. :smiley_th
 
#4 ·
Sounds like it should be a nice project.
Have you worked something out for the battery location, or is the spring seat not going to be in the way of where it is now?
The battery looks to be located where it is to give the swing arm room to come up. I think I can lower it about an inch and a half or so which should be plenty of room for the spring seat to flex down.
 
#5 ·
i was thinkin of a spring seat but if u look at the old school harleys, the frame tilts up, on ours its not as aggressive, therefore it will either tilt the seat forward or ull have to have the springs lower than the frame.
 
#6 · (Edited)
Yeah, exactly. Relocating the upper frame rails and lowering the battery will take care of the problem you describe and allow the mounting of a spring seat just like you can on a vintage hardtail harley frame. Also replacing the fender with a bobber fender located very close to the tire should free up more room in that area, too.

Keep the questions and comments coming - makes me think these things out before I start cutting! :D
 
#8 · (Edited)
Surgery Has Begun!

OK I made some progress today. I stripped the frame of the tank, seat, rear fender, battery box, mufflers, and rear part of the wiring harness. I was able to relocate the upper shock mounts and fab and temp install the new thick wall tubing rigid struts.

Here is the rear of the bike before I started this afternoon.



Here is the rear frame partially stripped down.



Here is the relocated upper shock mount bolt.



Here is the new tube struts in place.



And a close up.



Tomorrow I need to make the upper frame pieces, cut away the old frame (everything above the blue line in the first post), and weld it all up! Then I'll need to remount the battery box and install the spring seat hardware. I havn't exactly decided what I want to do for a rear fender yet. Anybody have any ideas?
 
#10 · (Edited)
Yeah, it was late last night and I linked to the thumbs! Now I can't get the edit function to embed the pics directly, but the links now work to the larger pics. NOW FIXED!
 
#11 · (Edited)
More Progress Today

Got the upper frame rails done and the top of the frame removed today. It's starting to look like a hardtail!

Here are some pics.





 
#19 · (Edited)
Do ya get that Bronco out wheelin' much? I love the looks of them older 4X4's!!
Like the Bronco too!!!!
Thanks for the comments on the Bronco. Yes, I wheel it a lot. I am in a Bronco Club and we have some type of outing almost every month. Earlier this month we went to OBX. Next event is in October at the Black Mountain ORV Park in Harlan, KY. But most of the wheeling has been in PA - Paragon (before it closed), Rausch Creek and Blue Rocks.
 
#16 ·
Looking really good Scoop!!!!!! Like the Bronco too!!!!
 
#17 · (Edited)
Some More Progress Today

Fun day today - Finished welding the upper frame rails and made and mounted the seat pan. Heres a pic of the welds - they have not been ground down or dressed yet. They will get smoothed and filled when I final paint the frame.



Here is the sequence of building the seat pan. It still needs lots of work - prep for paint, paint and then getting covered.







And finally the bent seat pan.



So here is what it looks like tonight with the seat pan installed and the tank on.





The seat will actually sit up a little higher in the rear when I finish installing the spring-frame attachment and about a 1 inch spacer. Sitting on it feels pretty good. Nice small bounce in the seat - should absorb the bumps better than a stock seat on rigid struts (at least I hope so!).
 
#24 ·
I am using 1" x .156" thick wall DOM tubing. It's hard to find! I had to get it out of PA at S&W Race Cars. They make roll bars and cages. But easy to order from them. They will cut to length and ship it to you. Here's the link but you need to call them and ask for steel tubing.

http://www.swracecars.com/
 
#26 ·
#28 ·
No I actually don't have a tubing bender. They are very expensive and the dies are even more expensive! I am using a Harbor Freight pipe bender which works OK for smaller diameter thick wall tubing and for less than 90 degree bends. The 3/4" die fits the 1" tubing nicely. I got it on sale for about $80.
 
#32 ·
I got two 7 foot lengths. Still have almost all of one length left which will be used for the bottom frame rails. It cost right at $100 for the tubing and the shipping costs.
 
#33 · (Edited)
Today I was able to make the license plate and tail light mount. I also put a quick coat of semi-gloss black on the frame, seat pan and tail light mount just to prevent the bare metal from rusting. Here's some pics of today's progress -







Here's mostly put back together with the painted parts - sorry not a very good pic.



I also relocated the battery box but I need to redo the mounts. A couple of the wires are not long enough for the new position but I think if I move the battery about an inch forward the wires will work without cutting and splicing any of the wires. I'll try to get a better pic in the day light.

I still need to come up with a rear fender. I am thinking of using the front fender and widening it about 1-1/2 inches. Any ideas?
 
#35 · (Edited)
Better Day Light Pics

I was able to take some pics this afternoon. First pic, however, is what I started with (to get a before and after).



Here's the same angle with mods to date.



Here's the other side.





Oglejust - Good idea on the trailer fender. I went to a local trailer supply place today and I think they can order one that might work. Thanks.
 
#36 ·
I was able to take some pics this afternoon. First pic, however, is what I started with (to get a before and after).



Here's the same angle with mods to date.



Here's the other side.





Oglejust - Good idea on the trailer fender. I went to a local trailer supply place today and I think they can order one that might work. Thanks.
yeah im thinkin about gettin a trailer fender but idk if i wanna do that yet. btw just a couple things to think about..... different guages, pedistal headlight, and i would ditch the center stand
 
#38 ·
Looks real good scoop!!!!You did a great job!!!The trailer fender is a real old school mod,Indian Larry used to use them on his choppers they look pretty cool on a ridgid!!!!
 
#40 · (Edited)
A couple of quick updates on progress this weekend.

+ I finished mounting the battery box. Took me 3 times making brackets to get it in the right position where everything clears and all the wires hook up directly. Need to make up some kind of rain cover now because the seat itself is probably not enough.

+ I remade the tail light and license plate holder out of 1/8 inch bar. The one formed out of sheet metal was not sturdy enough - it vibrated pretty bad. The new one is a lot stiffer.

Then I hooked up all the engine wires, had to recharge the battery since it sat for so long, fired it up and took it for a short spin. The tail light and turn signals were not hooked up so I stayed just on my street. The spring seat seems to absorb the bumps pretty good but it still needs some padding!

Turns out the trailer fender I ordered last week was no longer in production so I picked out another one and hopefully it will be in this week.

Next weekend - upholster the seat, install fender, finish all the wiring, take it for a shakedown cruise!
 
#41 ·
I'm sure with some padding the seat will feel much better!!!!Looks really great!!!!! If you still have problems finding a fender check out this site http://www.crc2onlinecatalog.com/chopper.htm page 2 has fenders like your looking for.
 
#43 ·
FREAK CRAZY MOFO! Cant believe you modded the VN that much! Look crazy! I like it with out a rear fender, but the trailer one will look sick too. But i was thinking about new gauges too, and all i have to say is good luck. I looked everywhere for something smaller or something just different, but our RPM gauge is cable driven off the front tire i think and is really hard to find a gauge that is cable. But keep it up and more pictures would be nice too.
 
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