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KC's light bar mount

21K views 64 replies 18 participants last post by  kc2dgq 
#1 ·
I have these available if anyone is interested in a inexpensive light bar to mount your own light pods to the VN750. Polished aluminum bar with mounting holes to fit under the horn mounts.

$50.00 shipped in the US....outside the US may be more for shipping.

PM me if you are interested in one.

Link to photos...the one mounted on the bike was a prototype and is straight across on the top edge. The bar that is photographed has a curved top edge and looks better when mounted.

http://s1326.beta.photobucket.com/user/kc2dgq/media/Lightbar_VN750_V2/DSCN1492.jpg.html?sort=3&o=0
 
#2 ·
I have these available if anyone is interested in a inexpensive light bar to mount your own light pods to the VN750. Polished aluminum bar with mounting holes to fit under the horn mounts.

$50.00 shipped in the US....outside the US may be more for shipping.

PM me if you are interested in one.

Link to photos...the one mounted on the bike was a prototype and is straight across on the top edge. The bar that is photographed has a curved top edge and looks better when mounted.

http://s1326.beta.photobucket.com/user/kc2dgq/media/Lightbar_VN750_V2/DSCN1492.jpg.html?sort=3&o=0
Nice looking Bar !
I need to add that item to my "Santa' List" ! :)

WilliamTech :smiley_th
 
#4 ·
I have more info and photos in my album:
http://www.vn750.com/forum/album.php?albumid=470

Here is the thread I started with all the information on the Version1 prototype setup:
http://www.vn750.com/forum/showthread.php?t=20639

Here is the thread I started about the current version of the bar...and the LED bulbs I used:
http://www.vn750.com/forum/showthread.php?t=21327

I used the Optronics QH-87CD pods (same ones KM used on his original light bar). They are decent looking, small, and around $20.00. They come with 55WATT bulbs(9.2Amps total) which would be way too much draw for the VN750. I removed the original 55W bulbs and replaced with LED bulbs.
The ones I have installed in the pods are LED bulbs: 6.7Watt each, warm white (3000K), 25degree beam, 250cd @310 lumen (bout 1.1 Amps total draw for BOTH).

Any decent electrical supply or Garden Center should carry LED bulbs in MR-16 bulb (base gu5.3).
 
#6 ·
Finished product

Here's the (almost) finished product. Just got the light bar and running lights installed and am very satisfied with finished look. I mounted the switch to the left of the gauge cluster. We'll see how well that will hold up. Very easy to turn on/off and the switch itself will light up when lights are on. I am just shopping for the right LED replacement bulbs now.

Thanks to KC for such a great option! The aluminum mounting bar is very well made and extremely light, yet very sturdy. Get this on your shopping list if it isn't already. You won't be disappointed! :smiley_th
 

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#10 ·
Here's the (almost) finished product. Just got the light bar and running lights installed and am very satisfied with finished look. I mounted the switch to the left of the gauge cluster. We'll see how well that will hold up. Very easy to turn on/off and the switch itself will light up when lights are on. I am just shopping for the right LED replacement bulbs now.

Thanks to KC for such a great option! The aluminum mounting bar is very well made and extremely light, yet very sturdy. Get this on your shopping list if it isn't already. You won't be disappointed! :smiley_th
Looks Good on your bike!

thanks for the photos Okiebezer....glad you like it.

OK folks....tis the off season so if you need a mount...now is the time to get it.
PM me if anyone else wants one...I have a spare made and ready to go.
 
#8 · (Edited)
KC's work is really top shelf quality. I have seen his bars up close and if I had not spent so much time on my own design I would grab a set of his in a heartbeat. It may be too late to get a bar for Christmas but anyone getting cash to buy what they really want should look into this setup and order one soon. Plenty of time to get it and have everything ready for the early spring riding season for those of us that may have to shut down for any part of winter. I am doing everything is my power to avoid this just like last year but as my bones get older the cold gets colder. I am ahoping for a Christmas Day ride and another on New Years Day. KC's bar is a great option for the Vulcan and his LED sets are great also. This is all you would need to light things up on those dark back roads that we all love so much. His offering is a professional looking bar at an unprofessional price.
 
#9 ·
Definitely a pro-job he's got....mebbe in the future if he expands, he can anodize em in different colors too....:smiley_th
I think anodized aluminum looks great....ya still see the metal, so its like a tinting...
 
#11 · (Edited)
LED Bulbs

I did find some LED's on eBay for a great price. Just received four of them for $23.36. Took about 2 weeks shipping from LED store in China, but look to be some quality bulbs with following details:

Energy saving MR16 GU5.3 led bulb 9w indoor lamp 6w lights 3x3w spotlight vs 50w

NOTE: My Bad! I was just able to test these tonight and they are a tad too long for the housing!
 
#12 ·
I did find some LED's on eBay for a great price. Just received four of them for $23.36. Took about 2 weeks shipping from LED store in China, but look to be some quality bulbs with following details:

Energy saving MR16 GU5.3 led bulb 9w indoor lamp 6w lights 3x3w spotlight vs 50w

NOTE: My Bad! I was just able to test these tonight and they are a tad too long for the housing!
Just asking for my own education and maybe Anthony (KC2DGQ) can enlighten me on the subject but will an "indoor" rated bulb be able to take the temperature changes and bumpy ride of a motorcycle? I know that even on an overhead garage door opener it is suggested that you use an appliance bulb which is designed to take more abuse (temp. and jarring) than a regular indoor bulb. Maybe the design of a LED negates the need to have indoor and outdoor ratings.
 
#15 ·
In my experiance as long as the connection inside the bulb can handle the vibration the design of these LED lights is fine in a bike. A friend of mine used a similier set of bulbs for the lights on his 750 Shadow.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I997 using Motorcycle.com Free App
 
#20 ·
In my experiance as long as the connection inside the bulb can handle the vibration the design of these LED lights is fine in a bike.
Yes "as long as the bulb can handle the vibration the design of these LED lights is fine" or in other words "as long as it is working it isn't broken". lol The idea is to know if the LED lights were designed to work under the intended conditions so a purchase is not made only to find out they will not work. That is what I was asking and hoping to get an enlightened answer on. I am working on a fabrication project for my Vulcan and I need electrical switches but I have to make sure they are fully weather proof. It wouldn't be much fun to use just any switch and then have some rain short them out while on the road or be washing the bike and get an electrical short just when I wanted to take a long ride. Sometimes parts will work under adverse conditions but only for a short time if they were not designed for the specific conditions encountered. It is much better to know for certain before hand. Anthony, KC2DGQ, has specific knowledge on LED lights and he has chosen to use a certain type with his light bar for good reason. I accept that some may prefer a different "look" such as size or shape for the housing but the bulb type should be very similar to what he recommends. JMHO
 
#16 ·
Thats whats great about LEDs...no filament...vibration and such affects and breaks the filament in std bulbs...diodes have none...although Ive yet to see an LED that will illuminate as well as a Halogen bulb.
 
#17 ·
@ Dariv: I looked briefly at a way to alter the casing. The back of the case has a small bell that houses a rubber grommet protecting the bulb's socket. The grommet is slid over the top of the wires that go out the back of the housing. I would actually have to gain the entire length of the bulb prongs in order to make them fit. Not sure I could get that much space or the affect taking the bell and or grommet away would have. :(
 
#18 ·
That rubber grommet is there to serve 3 purposes:
1 - to keep the bulb housing tight against the front bezel
2 - to seal the back of the housing so water doesn't get in there.
3 - keep the wires from chaffing against the housing and possibly shorting out or cutting the connection.

Does the bulb that you purchased have a SEALED glass front face? This is the main difference between indoor and outdoor bulbs (which Vulcan2000 asked about).

Okiebezer.....I PM'd you the type I had purchased because they had a sealed front glass piece that fit perfectly to the front bezel. The raised edge of the glass fit inside the circular edge of the bezel, thus giving you the correct overall length of the bulb housing. If you really wanted to use the ones you have, you can trim the rubber grommet in the back of the housing to make room, or remove it and seal the back end with silicone.
 
#19 ·
That's what I figured on the housing too. I think I had just found these on eBay when you sent message. They looked exactly the same with sealed face and all. I looked at their mm measurements and all looked good. Unfortunately, I think their measurement was to back of bulb without prongs as the bulb is fine until that point. Their prongs extend beyond the length of stock bulb.

I unfortunately had to clean my pm box since then and didn't save the bulb type you sent. Would you still have msg you could reforward to me?

Thanks for your help. I REALLY like how nicely this bar compliments the bike. You did a great job proportionally and the quality is outstanding.
 
#21 ·
ALL LED's are built tougher than the best incandescent bulb, so I see no issue with vibrations or breaking the bulb through normal use on a vehicle. has anyone broken their LED flashlights by dropping it??

I updated the original post with the bulb information on the ones I used....including a link to the photo of the box.

here is the thread:
http://www.vn750.com/forum/showthread.php?p=235126#post235126
 
#22 · (Edited)
It worked !!

I did open the light fixture to see if any "wiggle" room to allow these bulbs to work. Figured why not? $5 bulbs would sure be easier to handle than $22 bulbs. Plus already had these. :)

I removed the bulb retention ring and then the stock halogen bulbs. One was a little snug, so I used a rubber cap opener my wife has in the kitchen. Simple, small rubber disc that I used to squeeze the ring and get some traction. After disconnecting the ceramic bulb receiver, I carefully removed it and the rubber grommet that surrounds the wires at the rear of the housing. Using a small set of pliers, I gave a gentle twist to the bell shaped housing crimped to the opening at the rear of the main housing. It came off a lot easier than anticipated and once removed, provided just enough room to use the initial bulbs I mentioned.

I retained the rubber grommet around the wires and threaded the wires back through the small opening. I aligned the new bulbs so that they both were oriented the same way in the housing. Twisted the caps back on, nice snug fit just as before. Small dollop of caulking along the opening where the wires come out. Made sure they were not being chafed by the metal along housing first. Worked just fine.
 
#23 ·
Just so all know..."LED" stands for "light emitting diode"...I used to have a lotta fun with them when they were still new....so, its a diode, not really a bulb...NB also, diodes only pass electricity in one direction, so proper +/- wiring is a must, unlike an incandescent...

And Tom....you actually WASH yer bike ????....lol.... ;)

And yeah, KC is a genius with these things...he's gonna make me a cupla lightstrips for under my tank....to illuminate my sheep...
 
#25 · (Edited)
Regarding post #6

If you'll look back in post #6, I show the location of the switch I installed that came with the lights. Worked OK, but was very awkward to reach.

I found this switch on-line and installed it this evening. Works great and is MUCH more convenient for use. Yes, I committed an act of needed violence on my grip. :( Didn't see any where else to easily fit this that made sense. It doesn't get in the way of my hand and is easily activated without removing hand from handlebar. :smiley_th
 
#27 ·
#30 ·
These are a very sturdy but lightweight aluminum. Very well built and proportioned for our ride. Well worth the money for the craftsmanship.
 
#32 ·
I am sure it is put together very well, I have met KC and I imagine the quality of the craftsmanship is 2nd to none. I was just wondering what kind of material it was.

My drifter has a funny looking light bar, but it suits me ok.

thanks though - very nice work.

kenny
 
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