bike just quitting on me
i have a 2001 vulcan 750 with 29000 approx for one thing can anybody tell me if this is too many miles for bike? The problem that is at hand is as follows just got bike guy i bought it from drove it to my house apprx 90 miles no issues. I drove several times short diostances to get used to the bike bike ran fine. Last sunday set out on my 1st long road trip went approx 6 miles from the house felt the bike start to almost buck then felt like it was losing power like cylinder not firing then died out would not restart like battery was dead. I know i dont like to do this but back problem made me jump start to get back home but even with this bike would go approx 1 mile or so before it had to be jumpstarted again then would keep doing the same thing. I am going on the thought that it is electrcal but battery seems to be testing fine i am starting to trouble shoot rest of the charging system and was wondering if anybody had any test methods for the stator and the rectifier/regulator assemblies! also would be nice to have values for both of theses. the big thing i need is output values of the stator at the battery and output by separating the stator from the entire system hopefully i can get some insight
Well we can help u !!! Do you know how old the battery is ? I believe you should be able to take it to the autoparts store and they can test it for you. I would say the first thing you need to know is if you have a good battery.
If you can charge it (not with a car battery charger) and get the bike running for a few minuits. Try to let the bike warm up a but. If its a stock R/R you should get atleast 13-14 VDC with the RPMS at 3000-4000. If by chance your at 15 VDC or higher the R/R is bad with an over charge problem.
If the R/R voltages stay at 12VDC, or battery voltage then there are some checks we can do for the stator. Quick question, When the bike is running does your headlight come on? If you dont know, the 3 yellow wires at the R/R connector are the stator wires. Continuity checks between all the 3 wires should give you 1-3 OHMS Idealy they could be even less. 0.1-2 or so. Example; check wire 1 to 2, 1 to 3, and 2 to 3. If them measuremnts are bad you could re-check them at the bullet connectors I would say they should be the same, if not you could have some wire problems. You could also check for the voltage at the R/R connector coming from the stator wires. If im not mistaken each wire to ground should give you 50-70 VAC (RPM's 3000-4000) Then check all 3 wires to ground -where the neg battery wire bolts to the frame.
You also could check the frame ground, engine ground. making sure there clean. I asked about the headlight because one of the stator wires is spliced and goes to the junction box for the operation of the headlight relay, if the stator is dead your headlight would not come on, assuming there is no other problems in the headlight circuit. when my stator died the way I knew there was a problem is my headlight didnt work. Good thing I leave for work when its dark. Hope this gets you started. Lets us know what u find
I have the headlight operational! I started running some test as per manual for the rectifier/regulator but not sure I am performing them correctly. I can not get the bike to run long enough to do stator test bike sounds like running on one cylinder the front and then will eventually die out
When I did have bike going I did notice that the one middle yellow wire getting hot off the stator. I disconnected the connectors and got the bike to run again but with wires not connected they did not get hot
First thing is take the battery to a dealer and get a LOAD test done to see if it is any good.
You need a charger that can be set at 1.5 to 2 amps for a motorcycle battery. Some automotive chargers will work.
When you get the engine started and warmed up, voltage should gradually climb from about 12.5 V dc at idle to 14 to 15 V at 4-5,000 rpm. Up to 15 volts is ok, but if it goes over 15 the regulator is suspect.
Ifixf18s continuity test is correct, but the 50-70 V ac test should be between pairs of yellow stator wires, NOT WIRES TO GROUND.
With the engine off, test all three yellow wires for continuity to ground. Anything other than infinite resistance is a shorted out stator.
Did the yellow wire that got hot have any greenish colored corrosion at the bullet connectors. Corrosion causes resistance and heat.
Clean the connectors and apply dielectric grease when rejoining them.
Yes it did have off color but was you are saying between wires only getting 18 volts but all electrical working including headlamp
From what ive read on here KAW uses a special type of meter so if you are doing the continuity checks on the R/R the values in the manual are the values that KAW gets using their meter. The manual has you swapping the meter leads around because its checking the function of the internal components of the R/R which are diodes. You can google diode tesing and read up about just so you can get a basic understanding of what your doing. Im sure you could even look it up on you-tube.
With everything pluged in and the bike running 3000-4000 RPM. Your measuring the voltage at the battery terminals should be as I previously stated.
The continuity checks on the stator have to be done when the bike is NOT running. so those checks you could do. Only if your checking for voltage would the bike need to be running.
Not really sure about the one stator wire getting hot, doesnt seem right. Do your continuity checks and pay perticular attention when checking that wire, as far as the running on one cylinder not quite sure what to tell you there. Unless you have one of the old induction timing lights used on cars I guess you could check for spark that way. Or pull the plug(s), plug them into the wires ground them against the motor try to start the bike and see if you get spark.
You can also tell a little how the bike is running just by a spark plug inspection. If its the same as cars the center insulator should be a nice tan color. Maybe you could compare them to the cylinder you thing is running properly. You would need and 18mm spark plug socket.
Thanks for correcting me HOSS on the stator voltage test
does any of this sound like potential bad stator and regulator/rectifier? for my own knowledge do you have a particular brand you would recommend over another for replacement other than oem for the stator and the regulator rectifier? Also what are your feelings on 29000 miles is that too many or what is your feelings?
i got the bike running tested voltage at the battery at idle getting 12.0 volts let warmed up and revved up would get a voltage increase of 1 to 3 volts to me this looks like charging issue! aNY IDEAS
If the R/R on the bike is the original one having 12 VDC when the bike is at idle is normal. When the RPMS are increased the voltage should increase. From what you just said it seems you are getting close to 15VDC when increasing the RPMS, from that information seems to be its charging ok. A bit of good to know information on this bike and maybe even on others. You have to have a good Charged Battery The bike needs every bit of it to turn over the engine and power the ignition. If the battery starts getting weak it can be very hard if not impossible to start even though it may sound like the engine is turning over ok.
Did you go take the battery and get it tested? What was your findings on the stator continuity checks?
My feeling on the miles is that if the bike is properly maintained and taken care of 29K is nothing. I have a 2005 and already have 21K.
Ive read on here what others do to help make there bike run/start better.
1. NGK Iridium DPR7EIX-9 Spark Plugs (About 8$ each, no need to gap them)
2. A maintanence free battery MF-AGM
3. Use Seafoam as a gas treatment every so often for the carbs. Can get this at an auto parts store about 10$ a can. Get the kind you pour in the tank.
About your other question. As far as the stator, advice on here says go with Tim Parrot (Tim Parrot Enterprise) you remove your stator send it to him and he rewinds it. About 85$. Thats better then the $400 something Kaw wanted for a replacement. That advice I took and so far very pleased. He really treated me right. Stay away from Ricks stators. Also to remove your stator unless the left engine cover has been modified you have to remove the motor.
As far as the R/R, On here the popular choice is the MOSFET SHINDENGEN. I replaced mine with one and again so far very pleased 14-15VDC at idle.
Here is a couple links so you can visit about the stator and the R/R
i am sorry i meant to say .1 to .3 volt difference so went from 12.0 even to approx 12.3 when revved up after warmed up that is my typing skills just noticed it.
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