Screws and studs - stuck ones
if the WD-40 doesn't do it and you decide to apply heat, use a soldering gun. If you have a heavy duty soldering gun you can put the tip right in the screwhead and it shouldn't affect the rubber on the stalk. Ed
While a soldering iron may work on small screws, you may need the additional power of a soldering gun for something this big.
Need help with broken exhaust pipe mounting bolt.
If there is enough left to get a hold of it with vice grips, soak it good with penetrating oil, then try that. If that fails, head for a good tool store and get a set of bolt extractors if you don't have one. You'll prob have to drill a hole in what is left of the bolt to get the extractor started. Or you can try to drill out the bolt, but using a drill smaller than the bolt. Be careful if you do this that you don't hit the sides of the existing bolt hole and mess up the threads... if you do, then you have another job on your hands once you get the bolt out. Sempai
For starters, you just want to heat the area closest to the stud, not putting the flame on the stud, but on the side of the manifold itself. If you want, start with propane. It burns at at lower temp than mapp gas. Apply the heat to the manifold, I would say just before it would start to glow, and try the exhaust stud. It may take a couple of temperature cycles to get it all the way out. Since the manifold for a bike is small, it should not take long for the temperature to increase. If I get a real stubborn stud, I typically heat it until I get it to break free, let it cool a bit, let some penitrating oil soak in, and try to rotate the stud back and forth a little to get a feel. I repeat the process if it feels like it doesn't want to keep turning. Remember to do this in a well ventilated area, especially after applying the penetrating oil and reheating because it's going to burn off the oil. It takes patience, but it beats drilling pounding and tapping(if you have anything left to tap). Freak
Re: Loc-tite Question
I work for Applied Industrial Technologies, an industrial MRO distributor, so I know a little about Loctite. The threadlocker comes in varying strengths. Here is some info directly out of my Loctite book:
Product code 222- Low strength/Small screw, ideal for fastener diameters of 1/4" and smaller. Parts can be separated with hand tools. *
Product code 242(blue)- Medium strength, A general purchase, removable threadlocker for fasteners between 1/4" and 3/4" diameters. Parts can be separated using hand tools.
Product code 262(red)- Medium to High strength, A permanent locking threadlocker for fasteners up to 3/4" diameter. The 262(red) can be broken loose with heat, usually with a torch. This can be difficult depending on where the bolt/nut is, certainly on a motorcycle. My advise to anyone using threadlockers is to make sure what you are using and exactly what you want done. Hope this helps someone.
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