|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|07-03-2015 08:50 AM|
39 amps? hot jumper cable? what gauge is that cable? 8 or even 10 should handle that current flow without issues.
are you sure theres not a x10 multiplier on the meter your forgetting to add?
remember, every electron that leaves the battery must make it back to the battery. thats why I stated the issues with the clamps on jumper cables.
|07-02-2015 11:17 PM|
|bamaTrider||The highest amp drawn at the starter cable is 39, and drops off to around 37 within 5 seconds. The positive jumper cable wire gets very hot within that 5 seconds.|
|07-02-2015 10:18 PM|
|bamaTrider||Tapping it has no effect on it. On the one I put the kit in, I preset the brushes by bench running the starter 4 times for 15 seconds each as suggested, then let cool completely, and then repeated. Both starters run about same speed with no load, but to me they do seem a little slow.|
|07-02-2015 10:04 PM|
Originally Posted by niterider View Post
|07-02-2015 08:41 PM|
|niterider||Try tapping the brush end of the starter with a hammer. This will help loosen the brushes up to where it gets better contact to the armature. Just a tap not a hard beating.|
|07-02-2015 06:36 PM|
|michiganteddybear||don't know what the spec is, but I can imagine its around 200-300 amps loaded. possibly more.|
|07-02-2015 04:37 PM|
|bamaTrider||I guess my next question would be how many amps should the starter draw. I can check mine with an amp meter when I get home from work tonight, but I'll need to know what it should draw in order to make a determination on whether it's good or not. I don't want to buy a new starter needlessly.|
|07-02-2015 03:56 PM|
|bamaTrider||When I used the car battery, it was by direct connection to the starter terminal. It will turn until compression stroke and stop. I would then bump terminal with cable until it would get past comp. stroke and it would stop again on the next comp. stroke. I put a rebuild kit in one starter even though brushes were not worn and there was no sign of armature dragging (no scarring). BTW, one of the jumper cable wires used did get pretty warm.|
|07-02-2015 03:03 PM|
|michiganteddybear||yuppers. also, jumping with jumper cables from another battery is not a guarantee that your getting good connection (HIGH current capable) at all 4 clamps. more often than not, I see issues with at least 2 clamps not getting good solid connection. also, the teeth on the clamps are providing a fairly small surface area for the large amount of current needed to crank an engine.|
|07-02-2015 11:17 AM|
X2 on MTB's post, double check the connections and the cables.
The bench test isn't 100% proof that the starter is ok. If the bearings/bushings are worn, the starter will drag and that often only happens when there is a load on the starter, like the starter gear being engaged with the engine. I've seen many starters that bench tested fine, but were still defective and would never start an engine.
Voltage drop and amp draw test with the starter on the engine will tell you more. But assuming the wiring and the engine itself is ok, the starter must be pulling way too many amps if a 550cca car battery can't turn it. If this is the case, you should see at least one of the battery terminals getting really hot.
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