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Thread: Can A Parts Bike Live? (Help Needed) Reply to Thread
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  Topic Review (Newest First)
06-28-2009 02:52 PM
flitecontrol Nice. And another bike lives!
06-28-2009 12:10 PM
skalding I'm Almost done with the parts bike. (knock wood).

She turns over and rolls under her own power! So I got her registered and will now start doing test rides and tweaking.

I have a few odds and ends left (relocating horns, etc.) Also, I may have to do more work if other problems become apparent, which I expect some will during her new "break in" period.

But so far, with much help and advice from the forum:

Fluids changed (oil, radiator, brake, front fork, rear fork)
New front brakes
Spline/swingarm lube
Coil relay mod
Just about every electrical connection cleaned/greased/wrapped
Turn Signals rebuilt (tinfoil reflectors) and moved
New ignition wires
New front fork seals
New gas tank/petcock
Degoat
Ear Shave
Carbs cleaned and rebuilt (*may have pinholes in the coasting enrichers)
DIY radiator protector (old diamond mesh from waste paper basket)
Seat chopped/padded/covered
A lot of JBweld/Drilling new holes work arounds

And - ta da! DIY rattlecan paint job.

Some of the mods were optional, some were "no choice" - i.e., sawing off the rusted-through goats belly, rejetting instead of rebuilding stock ears.

I hope you all see some bits of your own bike mods here - if you're going to steal. . .

(The blue bike is how she started.)
05-11-2009 09:36 PM
robuilt Just wanted to chime in and say your post inspired me. I too am on a ressurrection mission and you have given me hope. This site, so far, seems to have great info, and even better people.

Thanks for the details everyone on turning over the motor. Ill be trying that soon.
05-10-2009 09:29 AM
skalding Update on the Parts Bike for the curious.

This thing is the rustmonster from hell. There's rust *everywhere*. I mean, the frame has some spots on it, but every moving part seems to have been especially dipped in rust goo, just for me.

I pulled the carbs - there was a separate small thread on that. Thanks to Lance and others for suggestions there. Right now I'm waiting on the new needles and the filters to come in.

While waiting, I've been flying through all the stuff I've already done on Bess. Mostly it's just been fluid changes and pulling apart stuff to make sure there's no trouble: spline lube, oil change, rear drive, shock oil, etc.

It's surprising how quickly things are going. For example, the spline lube took about half the time because I now know what I"m looking for. The splines were intact and lubed. But man, everything around them. . . Well, see for yourself.

While lubing the splines, I got a look at the goat's belly. It had significant holes worn in it. So I decided to degoat, rather than try to repair it somehow. I figured it was going to be the same amount of work, either way. Once I figured out that the belly itself was not going to be saved, it was easy to pry/hammer it away from the parts I wanted to keep. Between that and the air box (removed by PO) the space inside the bike's frame looks enormous.

The RR bolt heads had rusted out, so it was easy to remove. The RR is just hanging out now, waiting for me to finish wrapping the tape on the pipes and putting the passenger pegs on.

My front brakes came in (paid as much for them as I did for the bike) and I put them on with little fuss. I didn't want to mess with drilling out the bleed screws, etc. Plus the master cyl on the old brakes does not have a sight glass, just a piece of metal. I like the sight glass. Gives me piece of mind.

All in all, I'm amazed at how quickly things are going. I just hope I don't finish up and find I have an engine seal problem or something of that sort.

Once again, I just wanted to thank everyone, not only for what they've written in response to my questions, but what they've written in the past. I can't tell you how many times I've been sitting downstairs with the bike, thinking "WTF did the PO do!?!" and then figured things out via this site.

I'm going to try the acid tank clean today - again, something I'd never have figured out on my own. Wish me luck.
05-02-2009 05:00 PM
OlHossCanada Keep on, keepin` on. You`ll have her running in no time. Electrical bugaboos are my biggest hate, when trying to diagnose automotive problems. You will have a greater feeling of accomplishment and confidence when you do get her fired up.
05-02-2009 12:50 PM
skalding Spark!!!!

From here on out it's just work. And lots of chemicals.
05-01-2009 09:10 AM
skalding Hmm. Mabye a loose ground somewhere? I sat down with the bike again last night and just can't seem to find anything wrong.

Sheesh.

I don't have to have the headlamp connected for the bike to turn over, do I?

I think the next step for me is to do a side by side, point by point test with Bess. I know she works.
04-30-2009 01:58 PM
seebeeare u can connect a positive lead to the red tabs on the coils there is a diagram here somewhere showing the rewiring of these coils with a relay connected to the kill switch... your on the right track the neutral switch is located on the back of the engine and should have a green wire attaced (your neutral light on is telling me that switch is working) hmm let me ponder a bit

Warning conecting constant power to the coils will drain the batt so unplug when not in use or diagnosing
04-30-2009 01:19 PM
skalding Yep, lights.

I checked various bits with a test light and most of the stuff lit up - all the fuses, the accessory leads, etc. Not very scientific, but I thought doing so would let me know if something major was shorting out somewhere.

I got light going to and from the ignition switch, kill switch and start button.

I checked out the kickstand switch. I unplugged it at the connector and tested the bottom half (with switch) for continuity - when I pull the plunger on the switch out, it gives me a circuit, when I push the plunger in, no circuit (I may be reversing that, but the reading did change). So I don't think it's the switch.

I don't know about the neutral switch so much. I know the bike's in neutral because the green neutral finder light is on. Is there a physical switch somewhere that I have to check?

I jumped the starter with a cable from the positive battery terminal to the connection on the starter. Is there a way to jump the coils as well?

Sigh. I was just hoping to find something on the first go around. I just need to spend more time with this. Although I'd much rather be doing physical restoration work than poking about with a couple of probes.
04-30-2009 01:00 PM
seebeeare Great news... engine turns

now im not sure on this but when i jump start the old scoot if i connect to the wrong side of the starter cylinoid (in essence connecting to the starter) it just turns and doestnt fire... if i had to guess on your situation its gonna be one of the safty switches
kickstand, clutch neutral, or kill swtch or ignition switch not neccisarily in that order

do u have lights when the bike is turned on?
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