Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums - Reply to Topic
Wheels, Suspension and Brakes
Everything to do with wheels, tires,
suspension, forks and brakes

Thread: More Seals Gone Bad! Reply to Thread
Title:
Message:
Trackback:
Send Trackbacks to (Separate multiple URLs with spaces) :
Post Icons
You may choose an icon for your message from the following list:
 

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

Once registered, your User Name"cannot be changed". We can make exceptions within 7 days, but after that, it is set in stone.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










  Additional Options
Miscellaneous Options

  Topic Review (Newest First)
04-28-2009 02:20 PM
FlaRider
Quote:
Originally Posted by niterider View Post
I got that from the haynes manuel. It does not specify the bolt head size.
Maybe someone here knows the size.
Thanx for the source, NiteRider!
04-28-2009 11:00 AM
niterider I got that from the haynes manuel. It does not specify the bolt head size.
Maybe someone here knows the size.
04-28-2009 09:33 AM
FlaRider
Quote:
Originally Posted by niterider View Post
You may know about this already.
NiteRider --

Where can I find a more detailed explanation of this?


Many Thanx!
04-28-2009 01:30 AM
niterider You may know about this already.
04-27-2009 10:49 PM
FlaRider
HELP! Bottom Allen Bolt Won't Tighten

Fellow Vulcaneers --

The oil seals, dust seals and snap rings finally came in today and I was able to finish the job. I replaced the seals, filled with fresh 15w oil and reinstalled the forks on the bike; however, I've got a PROBLEM!

The bottom allen bolt will not tighten because the inside part is spinning freely. I did add a drop of blue loctite to the allen bolt. I thought by waiting to torque the bolt until everything was reassembled with tension on the inner spring I wouldn't have this problem!?!!!

I read about inserting a small diameter wooden broom handle (tapered at one) all the way down to the bottom of the fork to keep the inside part from turning. At this point is this my best solution? The broom handle will probably disperse some oil. To get an accurate oil level I will probably need to drain all the oil and then add fresh oil.

Does anyone have any other ideas?
Thanx in advance!

-
04-23-2009 11:41 AM
FlaRider
Quote:
Originally Posted by lance328 View Post
Sequence is correct.

Check the tabs inside your caps, one of mine was cracked at the base. I used a drop of super glue to fix it.
Good tip -- Will do.

Thanx Lance!
04-22-2009 10:15 PM
lance328
Quote:
Originally Posted by FlaRider View Post
Hey Lance --

Great idea! I wish I would've thought of it or read your post sooner. I got the left cap to pop off by grabbing the little stud on top of the cap with channel lock pliers and wiggling it back and forth. I put some dense rubber over the stud before applying the pliers but still managed to slightly damage the threads. The plastic chrome knob cover doesn't screw on as tightly but with a bit of silicone I think it will stay put. The left cap was heavily rusted and corroded but the right one was in much better shape (see pics atch).

Anyway, I got the dust cover and seal removed and I'm waiting on delivery of the replacement parts.

QUESTION:
I want to confirm that I understand the Clymers figure 67 on page 378. The sequence and positioning of the last 3 pieces that sit inside the bottom of the slider are as follows from top to bottom: (see pic atch)

1. oil lock piece (with the 2 small holes at the bottom)

2. valve (with rim facing up)

3. spring (last item on bottom of slider)

These pieces fell out before I could see how they were configured inside the slider.

Is this correct?

Many thanx!
Sequence is correct.

Check the tabs inside your caps, one of mine was cracked at the base. I used a drop of super glue to fix it.
04-22-2009 08:56 PM
FlaRider
Sequence of 3 pieces in bottom of fork?

Quote:
Originally Posted by lance328 View Post
Had the same problem with one of mine, I removed the fork , put a rag over the top and compressed the fork so the spring pressure would pop it out.
Hey Lance --

Great idea! I wish I would've thought of it or read your post sooner. I got the left cap to pop off by grabbing the little stud on top of the cap with channel lock pliers and wiggling it back and forth. I put some dense rubber over the stud before applying the pliers but still managed to slightly damage the threads. The plastic chrome knob cover doesn't screw on as tightly but with a bit of silicone I think it will stay put. The left cap was heavily rusted and corroded but the right one was in much better shape (see pics atch).

Anyway, I got the dust cover and seal removed and I'm waiting on delivery of the replacement parts.

QUESTION:
I want to confirm that I understand the Clymers figure 67 on page 378. The sequence and positioning of the last 3 pieces that sit inside the bottom of the slider are as follows from top to bottom: (see pic atch)

1. oil lock piece (with the 2 small holes at the bottom)

2. valve (with rim facing up)

3. spring (last item on bottom of slider)

These pieces fell out before I could see how they were configured inside the slider.

Is this correct?

Many thanx!
04-22-2009 11:12 AM
lance328
Quote:
Originally Posted by FlaRider View Post
Lance and Vulcanites --

With Lance's tips I was about 95% successful. (Thanx Lance!) I reinstalled the right fork on the bike, removed the drain bolt on the side of both forks, the allen bolt on the bottom of both forks and drained the oil on both forks.

Using Jon's " handlebar pry bar" method (Thanx Jon!) I was also able to depress the cap and remove the wire snap ring on the top of both forks. The right fork is now ready for removal of the dust cover and seal which should be delivered in a couple of days.

However, the top cover on the left fork is stuck with rust and corrosion and refuses to pop off even though I removed the wire snap ring that holds it in place . . . go figure? I'm soaking it with PB Blaster overnight and will try prying and wiggling it tomorrow. ---- till the damn thing pops and flys off like a cork!!!???#@%>

So far this has been tougher than the spline lube Wish me luck--I still need it!

My thanx to Lance, Jon and everyone who responded!

-

Had the same problem with one of mine, I removed the fork , put a rag over the top and compressed the fork so the spring pressure would pop it out.
04-22-2009 10:53 AM
FlaRider
Quote:
Originally Posted by 750Doug View Post
If you go the "dealer/shop" route, you'll save some money if you just take them the fork tubes, if you're so inclined. Just a thought...

Either way, good luck with it.
If I get totally stumped I may wind up taking the forks to Ma Kawi.

Thanx Doug!
This thread has more than 10 replies. Click here to review the whole thread.

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome