|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|04-20-2009 07:57 AM|
Originally Posted by flitecontrol View Post
Have a good one...Old Dog...
|04-19-2009 10:30 PM|
Originally Posted by msh1156 View Post
|04-19-2009 06:45 PM|
Happy to report my splines are lubed with plenty-o-moly 60.
Taking my time, reading Fergy's sweet instructions I printed and took to the garage, it was a 2 hour job. The teeth were dry but there was no rust and no damage.
No smashed fingers, no screaming obscenities, a real money saving event with 100% success. Hardest part (other than getting my hands clean) was getting the the wheel to line up to the drive when putting it back on, but that was it!
This was followed by capping the reed valves with the 5/8" rubber caps from Advance Auto (thanks Cliff!). I'll tweak the mixture and that outa do it!
|04-18-2009 11:29 PM|
|Jace Bror||yeah. I seem to remember that from your write up and that's why I didn't bother with the coupling. cuz the teeth were good and there wasn't any rust on the main area of the coupling.|
|04-18-2009 11:02 PM|
The snap ring is up inside the coupler and keeps it attached to the drive shaft, and does not need to be removed unless you are replacing the coupling on the end of the drive shaft. This is a non-moving connection and wouldn't need to be lubed other than what might get in there just from squeezing moly into the coupling on a standard spline lube. If you look at the writeup you will see that I put a new coupler on the drive shaft because of the nearly worn off teeth inside.
I know that last time I did the spline lube on my bike I didn't loosen the right exhaust bolts but I have cruisers on the bike now and maybe they hang differently. I don't remember why or if I actually needed to loosen the exhaust bolts but it is in my writeup and might have been a carry over from the write up I followed when I shot that one. Seems like if you put a 2x12 under the bike and stand it on that, you get enough clearance without needing to loosen the exhaust bolts. There were a few writeups before mine, but just without photos. I like photos...
|04-18-2009 09:13 PM|
Originally Posted by Jace Bror View Post
|04-18-2009 05:05 PM|
|Mastertech||I cant rember totally, getting ready to do mine again in a few weeks at 30,000 miles, i think the snap ring needs to come out where the two work together for lubrication, i removed mine the first time but not the second, you might want to next time, might save a lock up and some exstra money in repairs.|
|04-18-2009 01:59 PM|
|Jace Bror||so when I did my splines I didn't remove the snap ring. is that gonna be a prob? when I did mine the main spline actually had decent amount of lube in there and no rust. especially considering that the bike is 2000.|
|04-18-2009 01:12 PM|
Gents, the splines are not that hard to do, the rear wheel will come off in 15 minutes, need a long nose snap ring pliers, some brake cleaner and and some new grease, i use blue wheel bearing grease myself.
The book is way off on wheel removal, i think i drop the passengerside muffler with a couple of 10 mm bolts and the shock at the top, remove brake cable and hub bolt, and thats pretty much it. Dis assemble the shaft for service. I do mine every other tire, about 20,000 miles.
They charge about $200.00 in most shops for that.
I do it in my shop in a hour or so with tire change, use a press to break the bead and some tire irons with rim protectors.
I agree though, if you dont have place to do it, it is very awkward.
|04-15-2009 10:31 AM|
|Jace Bror||I had some problems with that two. It wasn't majorly shorter but enough to make things a little difficult. Like soon as one was one it changed things enough. I think ended up putting them on at the same time, I just held one shock in each hand and sat down on the floor behind the bike and put them on simulatiniously|
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