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Thread: where to get parts gaskets ect.... Reply to Thread
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  Topic Review (Newest First)
03-20-2009 12:56 PM
kennyw Don't forget to compare the prices you get online with the local Kawi dealer... sometimes (probably very rarely) it can be cheaper to buy local and avoid shipping.
03-20-2009 12:40 PM
GuyP I don't know if this will help.
http://tocmanufacturing.com/Files%20...nd%20Parts.pdf
03-17-2009 12:08 AM
seebeeare
Quote:
Originally Posted by lance328 View Post
Gaskets needed:

2- Head Gaskets

2- Cylinder Base Gaskets

Left and Right side Case Gaskets

1- Bevel Gear Gasket

1- Oil filter Plate Gasket and the two o-rings

4- Coolant Pipe O-Rings (right pipe from water pump to case halves)

1- O-Ring that goes behind Impeller

1- Transmission cover gasket

1- Mechanical Seal (water pump impeller)

1- Tube of Yamabond or three bond case sealant (to seal the case halves) DO NOT use RTV silicone

1- Small tube of blue loctite for lower chain tensioners

1- glaze breaker or emory cloth to break the glaze on the cylinders "if you do not break the glaze the rings will not re-seat"

1- Clutch hub holder http://www.motosport.com/dirtbike/pr...segment=badger

1- Flywheel Puller http://www.repairmanual.com/motorcyc...4/0/4886/10471


ORDER PARTS FROM: http://www.cheapcycleparts.com/Street.aspx
??? oil filter plate gasket 2 orings??, Mechanical seal???
03-15-2009 08:02 AM
Rebel Just remember taking short cuts cost in the long run
03-15-2009 07:59 AM
Rebel You mess with the girl that hit ya she might do it again. Rebuilding bikes are a piece of cake. Fun . you can do it good luck.
03-15-2009 01:11 AM
flitecontrol
Quote:
Originally Posted by lance328 View Post
You are talking about a ridge reamer, I don't want to over load him. LOL That will depend on the milage, but not critical on a motorcycle since the piston comes out the bottom and not the top. On a car you have to do it to get the piston out because the rings will get hung on the lip.
Ridge reamer! Yeah, thanks. Never having done mc pistons, I figured they all came out the top.
03-15-2009 01:11 AM
seebeeare
Quote:
Originally Posted by lance328 View Post
I don't want to over load him. LOL
too late nah im getting it and i bet i will understand more and ask less as soon as i have the pieces in my hand, as soon as i get the word go its on and a fresh coat of engine paint to boot, i was thinking since im getttin to this point i should ear shave too and pull the surge tank... im actually kinda excited like a kid in a candy store... come on ins company write me a check and go the F away, my bike my time.... and then when its all said and done i go find the girl that hit me and offer her a ride on the ole scoot no hard feelings its gonna cost me a couple hundred for the best education on the vn750 i could ever imagine the least i could do is take her for a ride...
03-15-2009 12:53 AM
lance328
Quote:
Originally Posted by flitecontrol View Post
X2. The stones on the glaze breaker are small and not coarse, so they primarily remove the glaze and very little metal. That's why you use standard rings. Keep the drill centered on the cylinder opening as much as you can, but that's not critical because the springs pretty much even out the tension on the arms/stones. You'll see the cross hatching develop as you do it. Lance, I assume he will also need to remove the lip that forms above where the rings stop? I've done it on other engines, but not mc, so not sure.

The ring compressor, glaze breaker, and the tool thingy to remove the lip (brain fart, can't remember name!) are loaner items at several of the local auto parts stores. Check before you buy unless you just want to have them on hand.

If it were brain surgery, you wouldn't have so many folks telling you how to do it! You should have no problems, and if you do, ask.

You are talking about a ridge reamer, I don't want to over load him. LOL That will depend on the milage, but not critical on a motorcycle since the piston comes out the bottom and not the top. On a car you have to do it to get the piston out because the rings will get hung on the lip.
03-15-2009 12:46 AM
flitecontrol
Quote:
Originally Posted by lance328 View Post
It's not scary at all, it just looks intimidating. Your drill will work fine, use plenty of WD-40 low to medium rpm and a back and forth motion, about 2 minutes and your done. Wipe off the oil and clean with soap and water. You should see a cross-hatch pattern. You can get the glaze breaker at any auto parts store.

When you order parts get the plastic ring compressor it will save you from bending an oil ring. It's under $10.00
X2. The stones on the glaze breaker are small and not coarse, so they primarily remove the glaze and very little metal. That's why you use standard rings. Keep the drill centered on the cylinder opening as much as you can, but that's not critical because the springs pretty much even out the tension on the arms/stones. You'll see the cross hatching develop as you do it. Lance, I assume he will also need to remove the lip that forms above where the rings stop? I've done it on other engines, but not mc, so not sure.

The ring compressor, glaze breaker, and the tool thingy to remove the lip (brain fart, can't remember name!) are loaner items at several of the local auto parts stores. Check before you buy unless you just want to have them on hand.

If it were brain surgery, you wouldn't have so many folks telling you how to do it! You should have no problems, and if you do, ask.
03-15-2009 12:25 AM
slimvulcanrider the cylinder job isn't scary at all...like stated b4, just take your time, use the drill slow, and don't rush it...the spring compressor will save you lots of time.
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