Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums - Reply to Topic
Where does this wire go?
Includes Electrical mods, Lights, Stator,
Rectifier, Diagrams, etc

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  Topic Review (Newest First)
01-13-2015 02:25 PM
Originally Posted by Goofyfoot2001 View Post
Just our of curiosity, have you taken apart the ignition switch and cleaned it too?
just did last night and it worked, just cleaned it off with alcohol, i don't know if the grease i have will prevent a connection or not. I have a little bit of dielectric grease, but I thought I read somewhere not to use it or it could short between paths. I'm sure I'll have to take it back apart sometime once i figure out what grease to use.

Again, thanks to all for the suggestions. Now we move on to cleaning it up, sanding, and eventually painting (and carbs when it gets warm enough i can have it sitting outside idling)
01-13-2015 07:43 AM
Goofyfoot2001 Just our of curiosity, have you taken apart the ignition switch and cleaned it too?
01-12-2015 03:15 PM
kc2dgq The easiest way to check the Junction Box is to open it and check the contacts on the relay itself.

If you need a JB to swap out for testing purposes, I have one that works.
Let me know.

If the one I send you works, you can keep it as long as you are willing to send me yours and some money to cover shipping and the cost of a new relay.
I will just rebuild yours as my spare.

PM if you need help.
01-10-2015 09:40 PM
B1g_R3d_88 So, I'm at a a loss. I have no Idea where to go now. I have jumped the 11-13 wires. All safeties should be out of play now. Nothing at all. I'm getting continuity from battery to starter, the starter switch works (checked with multimeter), lights all work, neutral light is on, the starter turns when I jump the solenoid.... How can I test at the solenoid that the starter switch is doing anything? When I pull the 2 piece connector out, what do I do the test the 2 wires? Should I be seeing a certain voltage or Ohm load? Is there anyway to test the junction box?
01-10-2015 05:34 PM
B1g_R3d_88 So I've got the ground fixed and I've tested the solenoid and it is good. I've got continuity all the way down to the starter and when I jump the solenoid it definitely tries to start. I think I'm going to try jumping the 11 and 13 wires next to bypass all the safeties and see if that will work. If it does I'll find a hidey spot for a toggle switch and call good. If it doesn't, I'm at a loss.
01-09-2015 01:38 PM
Goofyfoot2001 Buy a sportster :-)
01-08-2015 09:16 PM
B1g_R3d_88 So I go to tighten the main ground bolt because I noticed I want getting continuity when I checked it with my light, only when I wedged it in between the bolt and the little bracket, or even from the battery to the starter solenoid any more. Well the POS rusted bolted decided it would be a good time to snap....a trip to Lowe's for an easy out and a new m6 bolt and I can't get the freaking thing out. I've decided I'm going to cut the bracket off, bend up a new one, and weld it back on. This time I'll have a self locking nut instead of the welded on version.... Any tips before I weld to the frame?
01-07-2015 07:26 AM
tzrwesku Here is the starter circuit diagram, with this You can fix starting problem. (I hope) You just have to check every circuits!!!
01-06-2015 07:51 PM
OleDirtyDoc I think there's 2 more grounds.I think there's one under the tank
01-06-2015 07:45 PM
Originally Posted by kc2dgq View Post
I'd go back through all the grounds and connectors.
RerePete lol
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